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New steering box now hard to turn EDIT 10/9

Couple of thoughts. Have you tried getting both front wheels off the ground and turning the wheel lock to lock with the engine off? It should turn fairly freely. If its hard to turn with no load and no boost, you should be able to tell what is binding.
A different ratio box will increase or decrease bump steer depending on which way the change went.
Also, the box has a spool valve in it which is centered by a spring. When you start to turn the wheel, the output arm tries to move. When it cannot because of normal load on the steering, the load moves the spool valve by compressing the spring. When the spool valve moves, it sends fluid pressure to assist the turn. When the arm moves to the point that the load is relieved, the valve recenters via the spring and the boost stops.
Of course, normally you continue to turn the wheel, and the valve "chases" the turn.
The amount of load you feel in the wheel, is mostly determined by that spring tension.
Many years ago, there was an outfit that would sell a rebuilt steering box with what ever spring tension you wanted. I got interested in that when a truck in our fleet apparently suffered a spring breakage in the steering box. It drove great, no slop, but had absolutely no load on the steering wheel other than the input bearings. It was like driving a video game. It was all the more strange because there was a big rack that stuck out over the hood. When you drove it, you really felt like it was a game. You just turned the wheel and the world moved back and forth in front of you.
We were going to replace the box, but the guy whose truck it was begged us not to. Said it was the coolest driving thing he had ever driven.
It stayed that way until we sold the whole truck and got a new one a few years later.
If your box is setup with a heaver spring, then it will be harder to turn, and would allow more feedback before the valve moved to counteract it.
However, a stiffer spring would be constant, and yours sounds like it changes with conditions.
Try it with wheels up and engine off, I suspect you will see what is binding.

J.
 
Yeah with both front wheels off the ground it still has more resistance than I think it should. How much is a safe amount to mess with that pre-load adjustment on the top of the box?
 
If you don't just go nuts, its a pretty safe thing to fool around with.
I would leave the wheels in the air, engine off. back it off about a full turn. That should give you some slop in the steering.
If the slop is real easy, but it get hard after, then you still have a problem unrelated to that adjustment.
If the slop is real easy, and then it feels normal, just work the shaft back and forth as you gradually tighten the screw until you just get the slop out and then stop. After you drive it a while, you may have to tighten it a little more.

If you get slop, but even the slop is hard to turn, then you have some kind of problem between the input shaft of the box and the steering wheel. Probably a misalignment of some kind.
If the slop is easy but gets hard after that, adjust it back until all the slop is gone, and then take the pitman arm off and see if it is still hard. If not, then try moving the wheels back and forth by hand and see what is binding.
The secret is to isolate what is binding.

J.
 
Well I didn't mess with the but at all, but yesterday we went wheeling and its definitely harder to turn right than it is to turn left? What would cause this?
 
Well I didn't mess with the but at all, but yesterday we went wheeling and its definitely harder to turn right than it is to turn left? What would cause this?

Something wrong with the spool valve inside the streering box. The spool valve is what controls left and right pressure assist.
 
Anything I can do with that? It feels the same left and right on the street. Just offroad do I notice the difference.
 
I replaced the PS box in my 79 c20 with an autozone rebuilt unit. When I got it hooked up the steering was straight. As soon as I turned the wheel a bit, it steered all of the way to one stop by its self. A neighbor told me that the box was setup wrong. I took it back and bought one from a local rebuilder. It worked ok. I try to avoid kragen and autozone for parts if possible. I have had too many problems with them.
 
The thing to remember, is if the boost is working, then what you feel in the steering wheel is pre-boost up to the limits of the boost. In other words, when you turn the wheel, you feel the spring pressure on the spool valve. Once it opens, the boost is turning the wheels. But the gear mesh adjustment is before the spool valve. Try jacking up the wheels and adjusting the mesh bolt with the engine off and see if that eliminates the problem.
However, the hydraulic boost system has its limits. If something is binding strong enough, the overload valve will open, or the belt will slip if its loose.
But you almost always either hear the belt squeal, or the squalling noise of the fluid bypassing through the valve.
I really would check the adjustment before I went too far. It may pinpoint the source of the problem.

J.
 
Have you tried unhooking the steering arm (on the box) from the draglink and see what is feels like just turning the box? If it is indeed the box itself it should still feel hard to turn.

On my Blazer with a D60 front I have had 3 or 4 different steering boxes on it and they all turn pretty hard with the front tires off the ground and engine off. This was with 38's with normal 4wd boxes and then maybe 2 different cross-over (2wd) boxes, and now with 39.5's with two different boxes on it. When I mean hard that is using both arms cranking it lock-to-lock (lots of times while bleeding it). It's even harder now with the hydro-assist.

If I unhook the draglink I can spin the steering wheel with almost one finger (engine off). Basically this is telling me most of the resistance is downstream of the actual box.
 
Right I understand there is a lot of resistance in the steering below the box. The difficulty in turning really isnt the huge issue. Its the fact that I can't turn off road without rolling.

My old box I could go lock to lock pretty easily with one hand.

I am lookin at picking up a used 2wd box for $50 for a spare and troubleshooting.
 
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