Not sure why Ryoken said a welded latch won't last long. The weld is stronger than the parent material and would actually hold up alot better. 
CK5
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(NEW) Tailgate latches -Where to find ?
- Thread starter Lunatic
- Start date
how do you know what the parent metal is? and what processes it received? tho a hard weld, mig is just untreated mild steel...
I'm missing something on those pins. If I am seeing it right, that smallest diameter end is the part that goes through the side of the latch and then its bradded over, right?
What supports the other end?
And I'm guessing that the latch pivots on the largest part.
Drilling a tapping it is a good idea, but remember two things.
First, that "8" on the end might mean grade 8. Hard to drill and tap. Doable, but go slow and don't break a tap.
Second, watch your loading. If the screw is bearing the shearing load that the part its threaded into used to bear, then it is not going to be as strong since it has to be smaller to fit in the old part.
Unless you remove the smaller part and thread into the larger with a screw the same size as the original pin.
However, if the original pin is still taking the load, and the screw is just keeping it from sliding out, then the screw will not see the shearing load.
Of course that is going by my concept of how the pins are mounted. I may be completely wrong since I didn't see them in place.
I hope you find newer latches with the same part. Those are going to be harder to fab with that turned up tab.
Not impossible by any means, just more work than a flat piece would be.
The fact that they did not make a left and right gives me hope that there may be more out there.
They were obviously minimizing costs.
What supports the other end?
And I'm guessing that the latch pivots on the largest part.
Drilling a tapping it is a good idea, but remember two things.
First, that "8" on the end might mean grade 8. Hard to drill and tap. Doable, but go slow and don't break a tap.
Second, watch your loading. If the screw is bearing the shearing load that the part its threaded into used to bear, then it is not going to be as strong since it has to be smaller to fit in the old part.
Unless you remove the smaller part and thread into the larger with a screw the same size as the original pin.
However, if the original pin is still taking the load, and the screw is just keeping it from sliding out, then the screw will not see the shearing load.
Of course that is going by my concept of how the pins are mounted. I may be completely wrong since I didn't see them in place.
I hope you find newer latches with the same part. Those are going to be harder to fab with that turned up tab.
Not impossible by any means, just more work than a flat piece would be.
The fact that they did not make a left and right gives me hope that there may be more out there.
They were obviously minimizing costs.
You know, the only thing about this project that worries me, is the fact that I have seen other examples of your work.
All this needs, is a piece of plate steel, cut to shape, bored, and maybe a jeweler's saw used to cut a fine slit. Then the tab bent up along that slit maybe with a little heat if the steel is really hard.
That's all...........
But after seeing your previous work, I figure the finished part will be polished, all the edges chamfered, probably be jeweled with a milling machine, and have the hole bored out with a ball bearing insert so that the door can be latched shut with one finger........
But it would look Gooooood!!!
All this needs, is a piece of plate steel, cut to shape, bored, and maybe a jeweler's saw used to cut a fine slit. Then the tab bent up along that slit maybe with a little heat if the steel is really hard.
That's all...........
But after seeing your previous work, I figure the finished part will be polished, all the edges chamfered, probably be jeweled with a milling machine, and have the hole bored out with a ball bearing insert so that the door can be latched shut with one finger........
But it would look Gooooood!!!
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Fordum said:
lmao.....That's hilarious !
I actually did think about powder coating - Then realized it would never be seen as what it truely was (handcraft), therefore no point in the effort. A bearing though...hmm..
The pin is non-load bearing (As for what we're talking about anyway). The large end is for the spring coil - It actually protrudes from the bracket about 1/16" on that side. The middle size is where the latch pivots - That lip, from middle to small, butts up to the bracket's inside surface. The smallest of the pin goes through a hole on the other opposite side of the large size, where it is...was... set after OEM installation.
A tapped pan screw will only serve (and is only needed) to hold the pin from working out the other end of the bracket. The load is placed on the pin in the bracket holes, in a different direction than the pin slides.
The bracket is a doubled over piece of steel, shaped like a "U". You can kinda make out the bottom section of the bracket passing to the other side in all the assembled pics above.
You have the physical fab backwards IMO. I would actually make the bend first. It would suck big time to shape a piece and then fail a bend (Whatever the circumstances). I would use a piece of (clear) lamination paper to make the template, including the bent portion. Tape is too easily distorted when transferring.
Lam paper is solid but flexible. It'll hold the bend due to the adhesive, creating a true template. Then remove it and you have a flat template to put on your stock - Or in my case, put on the bent piece of stock and trace the flat section out.
This should be interesting - Especially if the latches Ryoken hunts for tomorrow aren't found or in good shape. Hopefully, they're still installed on an actual tailgate and he can go directly to them to check.
LOL - I just figured out what you were seeing as G8 in the pic above. That's not G8, and neither is the pin. That is actually...(wait for it).... two dents made from the only punch I had handy - A base board large finish nail punch. The first shot was what looked to be center, then the bead shown through and I moved the nail punch. I didn't even notice I made an 8....That's fun-neh
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Aha, yep, I see the big end of that pin now that I know what to look for. OK, that all makes sense now.
And, you are right about the bend. I don't know why I wanted to do it last. I guess to be sure of its position maybe.
And that is funny about the "8". It had me puzzled. I could not figure out how it was showing with the bradding or expanding, or whatever the heck you call that process with the little slots.
Its not exactly bradding, or peening. But it gets the job done.
Yeah, powder coating might be a little much when it can't be seen.
I dunno, maybe nickel plating??
I mean, you'll know its there..........
And, you are right about the bend. I don't know why I wanted to do it last. I guess to be sure of its position maybe.
And that is funny about the "8". It had me puzzled. I could not figure out how it was showing with the bradding or expanding, or whatever the heck you call that process with the little slots.
Its not exactly bradding, or peening. But it gets the job done.
Yeah, powder coating might be a little much when it can't be seen.
I dunno, maybe nickel plating??
I mean, you'll know its there..........
Just about everything made of steel (in this case) is going to be cold rolled steel. You can easily drill cold rolled steel, now make a MIG weld and then try to drill the weld (not so easy anymore). That's about all I can offer about the weld being stronger than the parent material.
EDIT: I probably shouldn't have used the word "stronger" but rather harder. If the steel is harder it won't wear as easily.
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
So I walked the yard today - Only two Blazers present, one close to my model and one '70 something in gold.
I checked a few other possible vehicles for similar latches - I thought I had luck on my side for a moment too. I looked at the rear doors for a full size van - Latches looked good, but upon removal and in depth inspection - They were different. Checked some rear Burb doors too - worn latch problems in a different spot on the latch.
At 1030 this morning - It had to be 90* already. So I walked my shoes to the gate and rolled to the house.
Looks like a new project is due. And very soon. My truck is due back by the end of the week - And they requested I re-assemble the loose pieces that were painted on-site (Long story, but was actually my final idea).
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
I checked a few other possible vehicles for similar latches - I thought I had luck on my side for a moment too. I looked at the rear doors for a full size van - Latches looked good, but upon removal and in depth inspection - They were different. Checked some rear Burb doors too - worn latch problems in a different spot on the latch.
At 1030 this morning - It had to be 90* already. So I walked my shoes to the gate and rolled to the house.
Looks like a new project is due. And very soon. My truck is due back by the end of the week - And they requested I re-assemble the loose pieces that were painted on-site (Long story, but was actually my final idea).
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Problem solved.
2 originals on top row, donor in center, 2 new on bottom row.
Compare.....
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
2 originals on top row, donor in center, 2 new on bottom row.
Compare.....
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Lunatic
1/2 ton status
.....But of course.
About to drill the pins momentarily.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
About to drill the pins momentarily.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
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Lunatic
1/2 ton status
The vise grip markings came from holding on the bench grinder - Heat and torque (if grabbed) sucks.
The new latch pieces began life....
Its a good thing I picked up a donor latch assembly at the yard Saturday - I just broke a drill bit in the second pin. No big deal really.
Here's a pic of my quick thinking. Drilled the wood with the press assuring the 90* angle, it holds a cylindrical item tight (They're pressed into the wood) and provides a larger surface to hold while drilling.
When you're done - Break the wood. No scars on the work piece (ta-da !).
Thru the first pin, out the bottom - Center/Center.
....even though the angle of the lens makes it look off sides....
I'm only drilling the pilots atm.
I haven't even looked at screws yet.
I'll finish up tomorrow evening after I get home from dropping some more powder coat items at a shop - In preparation of the Jimmy's return this week.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
The new latch pieces began life....
Its a good thing I picked up a donor latch assembly at the yard Saturday - I just broke a drill bit in the second pin. No big deal really.
Here's a pic of my quick thinking. Drilled the wood with the press assuring the 90* angle, it holds a cylindrical item tight (They're pressed into the wood) and provides a larger surface to hold while drilling.
When you're done - Break the wood. No scars on the work piece (ta-da !).
Thru the first pin, out the bottom - Center/Center.
....even though the angle of the lens makes it look off sides....
I'm only drilling the pilots atm.
I haven't even looked at screws yet.
I'll finish up tomorrow evening after I get home from dropping some more powder coat items at a shop - In preparation of the Jimmy's return this week.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
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