Hey, new to the board and I just bought a 76 Blazer and am planning on lifting it 3" or 4" but this is my first project and really do not know much about doing this and doing it on a college student budget, I have worked on cars my whole life but have never done anything like this. My question is what are yalls suggestions for a 3" or 4" lift and exactly what all will I need to accomplish it? It is going to be a dedicated trail beater. Also if anyone has any parts that may be of use to me let me know and give me a price, I may be interested. I know some people may suggest other stuff than a lift to start with but I am just trying to get a little extra height and get it on the trail pretty quick and am planning on doing other stuff during the winter. Thanks for the advice and I am sure I will many more questions.
CK5
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New to the board, need advice
- Thread starter kicker30
- Start date
The options are as many as there are hours in the day. What kind of wheeling will you do? How big are the tires going to be? How much coin do you want/have to spend? Do you mind trimming sheet metal? There are many more questions that I am sure you will be asked before your questions are answered.
By the way, welcome!
By the way, welcome!
My advice would be to wheel it without all the good stuff first. It will make you a better driver. Then upgrade the truck. I have seen more people stumble through the everyday wheeling doing everything wrong, but make it because the truck is capable. Then when the hard stuff strikes, they're in deep sh!t cuz they don't really know how to pick a line or use the truck. Just my $.02.
Leper
1/2 ton status
Welcome to the board!!!
Yes, we need to know your future plans, but here is a little list to get you started.
tuff country 4" EZ ride springs in front, drop pitman arm, ORD 4" shackle flip in rear, 1 set of ORD zero rates (if needed) to get the rear to proper height. Extended brake lines(3 of them) I suggest going for the ones for a 6" lift, just in case. New ubolts.
While you have the front end in the air, check for loose/bad balljoints,TREs and wheel bearings.
Yes, we need to know your future plans, but here is a little list to get you started.
tuff country 4" EZ ride springs in front, drop pitman arm, ORD 4" shackle flip in rear, 1 set of ORD zero rates (if needed) to get the rear to proper height. Extended brake lines(3 of them) I suggest going for the ones for a 6" lift, just in case. New ubolts.
While you have the front end in the air, check for loose/bad balljoints,TREs and wheel bearings.
Desert Yeti
1/2 ton status
Yep, what he said ^ ... and ditch the sway bar.
Instead of adding zero rates at the back to even out the "blazer sag", I went with three inch Tuff Country springs up front rather than four, but other than that, exact same advice and it works great.
I also agree that seat time is very valuable. Take it out and wheel it, no matter what you have done or haven't done yet.
I also know you only asked for lift advice, but it's a really good idea to make sure you've got secure tow points front and rear also...
Instead of adding zero rates at the back to even out the "blazer sag", I went with three inch Tuff Country springs up front rather than four, but other than that, exact same advice and it works great.
I also agree that seat time is very valuable. Take it out and wheel it, no matter what you have done or haven't done yet.
I also know you only asked for lift advice, but it's a really good idea to make sure you've got secure tow points front and rear also...
Thanks the advice so far! I plan on wheeling at Uwharrie and Tellico here in NC, so it is going to be rocks. I do not in the least mind trimming and have already began planning to do quite a bit of it. Im thinking 35s for now til I break something and then go bigger. Another question what all is involved in the shakle lifts and stuff where you keep the factory springs? Like i said I am new to this so my questions may sound pretty basic.
craigske
Registered Member
IMHO,you don't want to keep the front springs on a 76. I have two of them 
. ORD shackle flip in the back gives you 4" in the rear.
My suggestion to most people is to lock the rear axle with a Detroit or something similar. Read other posts for peoples recommendations.
After getting some trail experience locked, then consider the lift. Get the engine tuned out. That way you'll discover any glaring weaknesses.
You'll need to also address drive shafts and pinion angle even for a 4" lift if my experience is anything to go by, which makes those changes non-trivial, but also not hard.
How is the body for rust? holes in the floor? Are all the body mounts good? And the next obvious question is will this be a daily driver (DD)?
. ORD shackle flip in the back gives you 4" in the rear. My suggestion to most people is to lock the rear axle with a Detroit or something similar. Read other posts for peoples recommendations.
After getting some trail experience locked, then consider the lift. Get the engine tuned out. That way you'll discover any glaring weaknesses.
You'll need to also address drive shafts and pinion angle even for a 4" lift if my experience is anything to go by, which makes those changes non-trivial, but also not hard.
How is the body for rust? holes in the floor? Are all the body mounts good? And the next obvious question is will this be a daily driver (DD)?
craigske
Registered Member
ORD shackle flip is for the back only. It's fairly easy, but you'll find breaking everything loose is sometimes a bitch. Also, you need to drop the rear tank.
There is a very good write up on that in the products section. Here's the link. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
There is a very good write up on that in the products section. Here's the link. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
In response to couple questions, the floor pans do have rust and a few small holes as well as the rockers are gone and one body mount is done, which I already have new pans, rockers and body mounts to put in as soon as i get time and this will never be a daily driver, stickly a trail rig. Also what all is involved with putting on the B52 set up and I really like the looks of the stuff from DIY4X and ORD, so what all would I need to put 3 or 4" under there useing the stuff from those guys, I saw ORD has a 3" system, anyone have experince with that? I am a college student and dont want to put a fortune into this lift but I also want to do it right and have someting that is somewhat easily expandale so if I decide to go taller down the road sometime I can, that is why I am kinda leaning away from doing lift springs, which I will do if yall think it would be a good idea. Also I know some of these things like the B52 and shakle flip require getting rid of those old rivets in the frame and on that note I have an air chisel and torch(if needed) as well any kind of drill and grinder that would needed so getting those off wouldn't be a problem.
O and one more thing, someone mentioned dropping the sway bar, it will be gone as soon as I get started working under the truck, it will never be driven on the road so I see no need in using a disconect set up, its just gonna be taken off for good.
Desert Yeti
1/2 ton status
With a decent set of front springs, you don't need the swaybar even on the road.
If you're not afraid of moving spring mounts and dealing with chiseling off rivets and such, do a 52 or 56 inch spring swap up front, especially if you're planning on running rocks, and the 4" shackle flip in the rear. Then just cut you fenders as needed to go as big as you want on tires (or as big as your axles will handle).
You mention being a student on a budget though...be aware that even though the springs for the home brewed swaps are cheap, other materials required (or desired) may not be and they require conversion to crossover steering too, which adds at least a couple hundred dollars to the price tag unless you have free access to a well stocked junk yard and a machine shop.
The bare bones budget build would be a set of Tuff Country 3" EZ ride springs for the front and an ORD steering brace. (and the 4" shackle flip in the rear) With this setup, I didn't have to do any driveline work at all (I may just be lucky...results do vary), just extend the shock mounts (F*rd shock towers), put on some longer brake lines and shocks and go wheeling!
All that being said, I also agree with craigske that putting a locker in the back and just hitting the trail is a great idea too.
Welcome aboard.
The advice already provided comes with a LOT of experience. Don't rush into buying parts just to change it. Make it trail safe so you're not stranded or dangerous to yourself or others.
These trucks can go a lot of places without heavy modifications. Get a plan and then start the work.
Read the build threads. They are loaded with do's and oh sh!ts.
The advice already provided comes with a LOT of experience. Don't rush into buying parts just to change it. Make it trail safe so you're not stranded or dangerous to yourself or others.
These trucks can go a lot of places without heavy modifications. Get a plan and then start the work.
Read the build threads. They are loaded with do's and oh sh!ts.
