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New Trailer choices ** Picked up today 9-20***

twoslo4five0 said:
this is one big thing your gonna want to figure out as soon as you get your trailer im about to get rig of the straps and chain to the frame only right now here is how im running

002-21.jpg


i run a strap to the axle in the back and a strap across the hitch to keep the bounce down now im gonna chain to the frame only...
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With that method there is no really good side-to-side securement of the load. First I think it's hard to use one strap, or one chain, or secure both the left and right sides of the vehicle. I use a good strap at each corner, crossing over in an "X" (right side axle tube to left side of trailer) etc...
 
ive pulled like this for 5 years and prolly logged 5000 or more miles like this..never ever had a problem...i copied this idea years ago from a buddy of mine who had been pulling for 20 + years without a problem...mabye you can see problems happening but they dont at least not on my trailer..ive never had a truck shift on me
 
twoslo4five0 said:
ive pulled like this for 5 years and prolly logged 5000 or more miles like this..never ever had a problem...i copied this idea years ago from a buddy of mine who had been pulling for 20 + years without a problem...mabye you can see problems happening but they dont at least not on my trailer..ive never had a truck shift on me
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If you've had good luck, then that's great. I'm not saying that the load is going to burst into flames or kill a bus full of nuns, ut it's still not a great way to strap a load down and I wouldn't recommended that method to somebody else.
 
twoslo4five0 said:
i plan on changing it soon though cause im gonna strap to just the frame to compress the suspention better
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Just be careful because it's really hard to completely compress the suspension (you really need to compress it against the bumpstops). Otherswise it can bounce and slack the straps/chains. Next time you see a car transporter semi take a close looks and you will see all the cars/trucks are compressed all the way down, and they have chains and ratchets that can pull straight down....it's really hard to compress the suspension all the way the straps are at any type of angle.
 
im still deciding between straps and chains...i like straps because they are easy to store and have the rachet attached but they can tear (its happened to me a few times) chains are heavy and you need a binder but have less likeley chance at breaking so i dunno we will see when time gets closer..here is how mines gonna be done..prolly front and rear will have binders if i use chains

harlankyride001.jpg
 
6.2Blazer said:
Just be careful because it's really hard to completely compress the suspension (you really need to compress it against the bumpstops). Otherswise it can bounce and slack the straps/chains. Next time you see a car transporter semi take a close looks and you will see all the cars/trucks are compressed all the way down, and they have chains and ratchets that can pull straight down....it's really hard to compress the suspension all the way the straps are at any type of angle.
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I've watched them load even, and I've never seen those guys fully compress the suspension when they chain down cars. Seen a couple that were close, but never on the bumpstops.:dunno: I strap my stuff to the axles and pulled out at an angle to each corner, with no straps on the body. I also only use latching straps connected to axle straps (short straps with d-rings on the ends). When I had a race truck, I sometimes strapped axles, sometimes strapped rollcage and pulled it down really tight. Never had a problem either way. The biggest problems I've seen were from using open hooks that came off when the vehicle bounced. I don't cross my straps, because I've seen too many straps frayed from rubbing together, but I do agree with an angled pull if you can do it.:D
 
throttleissues said:
Yeah, mine are like these

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/79/PackageDeals

:D
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I have the same design of straps and really like the idea of the snap hooks which are almost impossible for them to come off.

For the car transporter compressing the suspension all the way down.....maybe it's not completely down but they compress them a lot more than the typical person hauling an off-road truck on a car trailer. Still the biggest thing is to make sure it's compressed as much as possible to avoid the bouncing that could cause the hooks to come off and avoid as much shock-loading of the straps/chains as possible.

Personally, I prefer ratchet straps for a car or truck. They are so much easier to work with then chains and binders.
 
I hauled a blazer about two hours from my house one time, and used chains up over the frame, it had a 6" lift with 63" rear springs and shackle flip. When I finally showed up at my destination the rear chain was completely un done as the blazer bounced the chain free of the pocket. I was like " OH Dang that was close". so now I tie to the axle and pull them front to back.
 
I strap down both axles in a 'x'. Each strap is rated for 5,000#. Then I run a strap through the front and rear d rings on the truck and winch each end down (15k straps), bringing the truck down a couple of inches. It never moves. It takes me about 5-10 minutes to load and strap the truck down. Having lots of d-rings and winches for straps on the trailer makes this real easy.

Remember overkill is okay. Always think what would happen if you have to hit the brakes hard. Everytime I run to TSF (about 2 hours away) I always have at least one jackass pull in front of me. Not to mention the last 20 miles of the road is getting pretty crappy. Last time I went quading, I saw a guy picking up his quad from the side of the road, it had come off his trailer. Looked like he only used 2 of those cheap straps, rated for 500 pounds.
 
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