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sdufeu

sdufeu

84 K5 4x4 in Ohio
Joined
Jun 30, 2019
Posts
39
Reaction score
27
Location
Ohio
I searched nationally for months before finding our perfect K5 right in our back yard. I'd rank it an 8 as is, and I'm gonna work to bring her higher. I don't intend to sub out most of the work, but I just scheduled replacement of the tie rod ends, upper/lower ball joints, bushings, etc with my local 4WP shop. It came in under my initial budget, and will make this girl drive as good as she looks.

Aside from that, I've jotted down some of the stuff I'll be pursuing to make her golden :-)

IMG_20191009_101200_01_01.jpg
 
Suspension/steering is easy enough for any shade tree mechanic to do instead of farming it out. You could’ve spent that money elsewhere with a little guidance from us. Just have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth while you check for slop in the steering system.
You probably don’t know what brand lift you have but is it blocks in the rear or spring lift? For shocks go with Bilatein 5100 series.
Belt squeal is either loose or worn, try tightening first and cleaning the pulley.
Speedometer sticking probably needs some lube in the speedo cable. It being inaccurate is probably from the larger tires being put on without the axle gears being changed accordingly.
Tailgate window could be a number of issues, need more info and probably a separate thread for that. For starters though try running a 10 gauge wire for a new ground from the motor casing to the frame both contacting bare/clean metal.
 
rampage said:
Suspension/steering is easy enough for any shade tree mechanic to do instead of farming it out. You could’ve spent that money elsewhere with a little guidance from us. Just have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth while you check for slop in the steering system.
You probably don’t know what brand lift you have but is it blocks in the rear or spring lift? For shocks go with Bilatein 5100 series.
Belt squeal is either loose or worn, try tightening first and cleaning the pulley.
Speedometer sticking probably needs some lube in the speedo cable. It being inaccurate is probably from the larger tires being put on without the axle gears being changed accordingly.
Tailgate window could be a number of issues, need more info and probably a separate thread for that. For starters though try running a 10 gauge wire for a new ground from the motor casing to the frame both contacting bare/clean metal.
Click to expand...

I don' think I have a lift (?). I was told it's stock height? I'm ready and willing to tackle projects as needed, but I had the leeway to get the suspension stuff done immediately.

I'm already shopping Bilsteins for the shocks that I'll install.. and I'll be pulling the speedo cable and lubing as a first resort. I confirmed today that the odometer is exact via highway markets in current configuration
 
Hard to tell from pic if it’s lifted, but if the front springs are arched downward then they’re stock springs (like a frown), otherwise they’ll be arched upwards (like a happy face).
 
rampage said:
Suspension/steering is easy enough for any shade tree mechanic to do instead of farming it out. You could’ve spent that money elsewhere with a little guidance from us. Just have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth while you check for slop in the steering system.
You probably don’t know what brand lift you have but is it blocks in the rear or spring lift? For shocks go with Bilatein 5100 series.
Belt squeal is either loose or worn, try tightening first and cleaning the pulley.
Speedometer sticking probably needs some lube in the speedo cable. It being inaccurate is probably from the larger tires being put on without the axle gears being changed accordingly.
Tailgate window could be a number of issues, need more info and probably a separate thread for that. For starters though try running a 10 gauge wire for a new ground from the motor casing to the frame both contacting bare/clean metal.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback! I'll be posting questions and updates on individual projects as I go.. looking forward to it!
 
Where did it spend its life before you bought it?
 
With only 71,000 miles why does it have a crate motor.

EDITED double post.
 
Last edited:
frankin5 said:
Where did it spend its life before you acquired it?
Click to expand...
I'm waiting for the Carfax, but I'm told "out west". It's clear from thorough visual inspection that it's avoided the cancer causing salt of the Midwest.. she'll be treated to a complete underbody detail and undercoating soon to maintain ;-)
 
That year speedometer could have rolled over and not be the original miles. If it was bought from a car dealer, they always hide everything with paint.
 
I think in general you'll get a fuel smell from a carburetor because it has fuel sitting in the bowl all the time. That being said, my 66 would stink up the garage and didn't appear to have a fuel leak. We were moving to a new house and I didn't want it stinking up the garage there since it's attached. I figured maybe the rubber hoses were just old and allowing the fuel vapor out. When I crawled under to start changing hoses I found the line to the fuel pump was dripping; it was just slow enough it didn't make a puddle. After replacing that bit of hose, I don't have the fuel smell in the garage.

Moral of the story, you may have a fuel leak even tho it's not leaving any signs.
 
rampage said:
You figure out if it’s lifted or not?
Click to expand...
Based on what I was told by the seller and the feedback here (specifically the spring load), I'm convinced it's stock. I'm ordering a full set of Bilstein shocks for stock configuration
 
You got any pictures of the front and rear axles and springs?
 
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