CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Next $1000?

smokkey1 said:
looks like an good deal. make sure the 14FF doesn't have an gov loc. because the detriot will only fit in an open carrier if not you'll have to get an new carrier for the 14FF.
OK, how do I tell? the picture on ebay shows the cover off, but I don't know what I am looking for... how do I tell if it has a gov-loc



I can't find the cheap 15x10 8 lugs, anyone have a link?

YES< JOE. thanks for the explanation, I know these, I just never had to name them before...


by the way, this is the BEST 4x4 GM site on the net, bar none! You guys rock, I will be becoming a member soon...
 
A full floater has some nice advantages due to its design. The axle shaft itself does not carry the weight load of the vehicle. The housing does that. This is because the hub, wheel assembly, is actually turning on a spindle that is the same peice of material as the housing or tube itself. So, if you wanted to you can remove the axle shafts without taking the wheels off and pull it, or drive off the front axle.

This is where the second advantage comes in.

If the axle shaft brakes due to some extreme amount of torque being applied, it doesn't necessarily leave you stranded. A semi floater on the other hand, you have a problem. A semi floater will not roll without the axle shaft in place and in one piece.

Since we are talking about Chevy's idea of a Full Floater, we might as well talk about how heavy duty they built them. I'm not saying they can't be broken as you will find it does happen from time to time. It is rare. The tubes are thick, the axle shafts are big diameter wise. they are easy to work on IMO than semi floaters or c clip axles.

There are some draw backs as with everything. The suffer from ground clearance issues. Limited gear selection. Somewhat limited Locker selection. The gears and Lockers I hear rumor are being addressed all the time. Just rumor though. More parts are available for them all the time as there popularity increases.

There is more to say but I think this is enough for me to type at one time.
 
I guess I just don't type fast enough.
 
Thanks again, between yours and Joe's explanation, I understand perfectly. I have messed with these a bit, but didn't really know it.. I knew you could pull the axles on some types of rearends without pulling the tires... the rest makes perfect sense.. so it is JUST the eight bolts holding the axles, right? no clips or anything, no need to pull a diff cover.... right?
 
Still looking for a link for cheaper 15x10 8 lug steel wheels, wagon wheels, anything....



also, more info on what type of Detroit locker I am looking for.... from what I understand, these are relatively easy to install right? not like setting the gears?
 
OK, how do I tell? the picture on ebay shows the cover off, but I don't know what I am looking for... how do I tell if it has a gov-loc
I can't tell from those pictures...but I can tell you how to tell the differnce yourself.

This is a shot of a 14b ff OPEN carrier dissasembled.
395_G.jpg


What your looking at is one half of the carrier with the spider/side gears sitting in the middle. Notice the 4 legs of the cross shaft with the spider gears on them. They fit in the four notches in the carrier half. If you set the other half of the carrier on top, then turn the carrier so you're looking at it on end, those notches form circles. On an open carrier there are 4 of those "circles/holes" around the circumfrence of the carrier. With a Gov-lock carrier there will only be three. In the picture of the 14b ebay auction, you can see one of the holes I'm describing.

I hope I didnt confuse ya with all that!:xmas:
 
gove loc has 3 cross pins and an open carrier has 4 cross pins.
and open carrier you can see the spider gears .and an gov lov look like an cone.
 
Cool, let me drop that seller an email, as I think I will pick these up, looks like they are going to go for about 100 an axle, I can get that out of them locally if I don't decide to go this way....


you guys are the best... can't think of anything else at the moment...


(oh, I see you have your spiders welded..:D see, I am learning, if I get a trailer big enough for this rig, and a truck with more ass than my Lariat... I am going to go nutz, )
 
Pulling axle shafts is just like you described. Pull the 8 bolts and they come out. No c-clips or pulling the cover. As for wheels, I dunno if you have Les-Schawb tire centers where you live, but I got my old white wagon wheel 15" 8 luggers for les than $50 ea. I'm sure you can find some tire shop/chain that sells them for the same or similar price. I still have 2 of them as a matter of fact. 4.5" backspacing. Pay the shipping and $20 and thier yours.
 
Yep...I run them welded. In that picture the weld job is only partially complete though. This is what the spider gears/side gears/cross shaft look like now.
523_G.jpg


Pretty much a mini-spool.:)
 
lol, You also mentioned that when/if you get a good tow rig/trailer, you'd go nuts...
I aleady went nuts...
My truck used to look like this-
ooold.jpg


Now it looks like this-
today10.jpg


;)
 
Yeah, that is what I was going to say........ how much are spools?, nevermind, I can look that stuff up..


Man, as expensive as this hobby can be, believe it or not, ATV'ing has cost me a ton more money! and this seems like more fun!!! (as least for MY old ass...)

Hell, I have more money in my Scrambler motor alone than I have in this whole truck... at the moment, counting every dime, I have less than $2300 in this truck as it sits... that's pretty good isn't it?


I can't wait... I am looking forward to building a crawler someday, might even use this truck as a base for it.... oh man, so many toys, and so little money for it all!!!

This is what I used to look like in the campground area of the trails, now, it will look MUCH different..

Fleet.jpg



and this was my favorite 4x4 BEFORE I got into trucks...

I totally rebuilt it, from the ground up, is IS 4x4, and damned fast!!

hpd4x3.jpg






thanks again guys!!
 
Oh HELL yeah, now that is what I am TALKING about, that is what I want to build some day...

Are you going to cage it? what size TSL's are those??/



the hell of it is, I have over 10k wrapped up in that scrambler, and with my other quads (some sold, some still have) I could have built just about anything I wanted... LOL, Oh well, always time to make more money.......


Thanks again man...
 
Damn...$10K into a Scrambler? Geez! lol

Hey if you're into quads, you should check out my companies website. http://www.bubent.com/

At the top click on atv. Ignore the "Moose by BUB" stuff. We're no longer working with Moose. Pipes ended up being a bit to heavy, had some other problems as well. ALmost done with our own line of pipes called "BUB Moto C4". Some really trick stuff...carbon fiber muffler bodies and titanium header pipes. I think it's titanium atleast. Stuffs not in production yet, soon though. I work in the tooling dept in the motorcycle divsion of the company, so I'm not totally up on what happens at ATV.

Anyways, the tires are 42/15x16.5 TSL's. It's still in the build up stage, (seems like it has been forever) so alot of the stuff isn't done- cage, gears. motor etc.
 
Man.. if u want to mud it put a detroit in the front and a selectable locker in the rear. could have it done for a grrand or do it your self for about $700 and tire wear would be no more than wut ur running right now. For a little over 300 bucks u could get a set of vortecs on ebay. Or you could use the 300 for some gears or axles. U can get a selectable electric for around $500 and a detroit for the front for $300. Gives u the best of street/trail.

U got manual hubs so u don't have to worry about tire wear on the front and if u stuff a selctable rear locker in the back you got no worries... just make sure u disengage the hubs before u hit pavement.
 
Thanks for the link for the wheels....





Kidjethro, the 10K includes the purchase price of the quad.. so it's really only $5K in extras.... $2500 alone in the motor.... and with Titanium sprockets and such, it don't take long.... lol, you know how it goes... and it is SO much fun to roost the guys on thier Banshees and Raptors and such... lol... I drag it a bit, and the 4x4 really gets my big butt out of the hole quick....


and oh yeah, don't let anyone tell you that a Polaris Sportsman 4x4 won't fly... haha, it will.....

FlyinDrew.jpg


Oh yeah, the Scrammie will get some air too... for a 500 lb machine, with a 300 lb rider.... LOL...

scramjimp4x3.jpg




OK, sorry, but I am a picture freak.. I know this is too much show, and not enough practicality, and it's NOT a Chevy, but the engine and running gear is..... this thing really turned my head!

orangesammy.jpg
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
Man.. if u want to mud it put a detroit in the front and a selectable locker in the rear. could have it done for a grrand or do it your self for about $700 and tire wear would be no more than wut ur running right now. For a little over 300 bucks u could get a set of vortecs on ebay. Or you could use the 300 for some gears or axles. U can get a selectable electric for around $500 and a detroit for the front for $300. Gives u the best of street/trail.

U got manual hubs so u don't have to worry about tire wear on the front and if u stuff a selctable rear locker in the back you got no worries... just make sure u disengage the hubs before u hit pavement.
What are Vortecs?

I like your idea, but I hear that a detroit in front, with my 1/2 ton axles would be just asking for breakage....

and as far as "selectable" do you mean electrical, mechanical, air? what brand? what model? I kind of need specifics, as I am a rookie with these terms...
 
stroll on over to the Vendor Forum, and find Tim's Offroad. shoot Tim a PM, he'll hook you up right on parts, probably cheaper than anywhere else. he also used to run a 10/12 bolt combo on his truck with 35s. so he has experience with a setup just like yours.

Vortecs are cylinder heads used from 96-00 on 5.7L truck engines, and will bolt on to any early SBC with minimal modifications
 
Top Bottom