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NO MORE ROCKROD?!?!

B_to_C

B_to_C

1/2 ton status
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So two weeks ago I call up Rockstomper and talk about ordering a rockrod. they say it'll take them about a week to make it (but i was leaving in 3 days for a trip down to NM) So I said I would order it when i get back.....

I call up today and "Yea...we're not making those anmore."

WTF???? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

"We can't get high quality steel right now, so we're not making them anymore"

WHAT AM I GONNA DO??? my tie rod is bent and I don't want to buy a stock replacement /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
duck_tape.jpg
 
My rockrod is frowning big time. Aren't those supposed to be un-bendable? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Or build your own.

[/ QUOTE ]

I dont have a tierod at all /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
I want to make one but I dont have the tapping dies, can I buy the threaded inserts? Cheap? What ends for a 10bolt? what length tube? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
What where the sizes for the sleeved rock rod? inner/outer
Are the sleeved rods better?
 
You can buy threaded inserts for making them. Poison Spyder Cutsoms sells them. My rock rod is 1/4" DOM tube sleeved in 1/8" DOM tube and welded together. My rod is in the neighborhood of 57 1/2" eye to eye I believe.

I am building my crossover draglink out of 1.5" .250 wall DOM tube. I bought the 7/8" weld in threaded adapters from Poison Spyder. If you are going this route you need the ID of your DOM to be 1"

I am using McQuay Norris 2234R TRE's in my rod and also in my draglink. I am going to use the same TRE in all 4 places so I don't have to carry more spares. They are all right hand threaded.

If you want to keep the stock style right hand lefthand ends you will need MN 2233L for one side of the rockrod. They your rod will adjust normally.

To adjust toe with my dual right hand threads I must pull one TRE out of its cup and spin it manually then reinsert, check the toe and repeat until it is right. It is no big deal though.

Harley
 
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duck_tape.jpg


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That's really too bad, I wanted one from rockstomper too. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
what about doing heim joints on a 10bolt?
like this (yeah its a cover truck on a mag)
draglinkheimjoints.jpg


Any benefits of heim joints?
Any benifit to sleeving a rod?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Any benefits of heim joints?
Any benifit to sleeving a rod?

[/ QUOTE ]

I see no benifit at all to using heims. They cost more, don't last as long, and are weaker...they also don't have the same thread as a TRE so you can't use the same tierod and you will have to drill out your knuckles to do this /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif...I won't ever do it. If you want something stronger use 1-ton TRE's insted of the 1/2-ton ends everyone uses.
 
and if you use heims, get them in phase,

that poser truck you posted must no have been able to see the horrible out of phase of the heims with all the chrome reflection
 
I use spehirical Rod ends for my tie rod. the TRE's I used wouldnt work. I tried a whole pile of them and couldnt find anything that would have enough drop to clear my leaf springs, so i drilled the knuckle's out and am using a 3/4"x7/8" shank sperical rod ends. So far i have had no breakage and i have beat on my truck pretty hard.
 
A couple local guys here in AZ run heims on 1/2 ton fronts. TheRobZilla & DJ (don't remember screen name). I asked Rob about them and he said to stick with TRE's. He said the heims are a PITA. He knows his stuff so I am using TRE's.

I am also sticking with TRE's because all my TRE's are going to be the same part number so I can carry less spares, they are $25 each, and have a lifetime warranty. Can't beat that if you ask me.

Harley
 
cool, I figured as much
found the PS website, I see the 7/8" inserts for 1" inside tubes, thats not the inserts your talking about is it? if so that tube would be 1-1/2" 1/4" wall over a 1" 1/4" wall /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

can I still do a sleeved rod and use inserts? How much clearence do I need for flex?
EXAMPLE SIZES: if the main rod is 57" and the inserts are 2" each, should I leave 1/4" on each side for internal flex? the internal tube would be 52.5" /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Those are the inserts I bought. My draglink is going to be 1.5" OD DOM tube with .250 wall thickness. therefore roughly 1" ID. The correct size for the threaded adapters. You could then sleeve the 1.5" tube with standard 1.75" OD .120 wall DOM for roll cages. You would then have a sleeved rock rod with .375 wall thickness.

The tube adapters are set to go inside a 1" ID tube. the part that actually slides in the tube for the 7/8" TREs is pretty thing but you weld the adapter at the thickest part which is at least 3/8" thick. No worries on strength.

The tube itself would probably be a little shorter because you need to have some room to adjust the tierod for toe in toe out. You want the TRE's to be set as deep as possible but still allow this adjustment. If you need I can measure my rockrods lengths tomorrow sometime and post it up.

Harley
 
sweet, do you have or know of any sleeved rock rod pics with that setup? 1.75" seems aweful big /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
if you welded the insert to the smaller tube how would you weld the larger tube to the smaller and keep the flexability of the sleeve? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
I guess you could put a plug weld in the middle
I always thought the insert was welded into the larger tube and the smaller tube floated in the middle /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
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