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No power driving up hill

Hope you all had a fantastic thanksgiving and your holidays are going good! Just wanted to give an update. Dropped my k5 off yesterday to have 4.10 gearing installed in front and back diffs. Hoping this will get her up the hills with more ease! Ill give an update once i get her back!
 
Quick question, if I want a 700r4 transmission does it have to be a certain year? Or does it need to be a set up for 4x4? Can I just buy a 700r4 transmission and add the gearbox to make it 4x4?
 
It’s easier if you do a 4x version

Also need to confirm overall length, I think it may require you to change driveshafts
 
Blazer Ralph said:
Quick question, if I want a 700r4 transmission does it have to be a certain year? Or does it need to be a set up for 4x4? Can I just buy a 700r4 transmission and add the gearbox to make it 4x4?
Click to expand...
For a blazer you want it to be a 4x4 because it has to be as short as possible.
I might have one in my stash, I have to look
 
1987 and up has the AUX valve body and would be my choice for a builder.
 
I knew of several internal upgrades starting in 87 and more as the years went by - just was checking to know if there was some cool case changes that I wasn’t aware of.
Never stop learning is my policy.
 
Here's what I compiled at some point:

1982: TH700R-4 is introduced, using 7-vane pump and 7-element forward roller clutch assembly
later '82: upgrade of forward roller clutch to a sprag
1984-1986.5: input shaft goes from 27-spline to 30
1984:
  • New input housing with ball capsule
  • larger diameter turbine shaft
  • new rear internal ring gear
  • new 10-vane "732" pump
1985:
  • planetary gears upgraded to "batwing washer" style
  • added inner pump slide spring
  • new reaction carrier with oil dam
1986:
  • Reverse input housing thickened in band apply area
  • new low roller clutch (longer rollers)
  • new accumulator pistons and seals
1987:
  • Electronic speed sensor
  • Aux valve body softens engagement
  • new overrun clutch hub
  • 28-element forward sprag
  • new spacer plate
  • 2-4 servo pin seal rings and grooves eliminated
  • Ball capsule added in reverse passage (case)
  • Type-15 wiring harness and temperature switch
  • upgraded sun shell with 5-disc stepped-plate 3-4 clutch (this may also be when the thrust washer against it was replaced by torrington bearing).
  • TCC lockup valve now plugged in the valve body (to coincide with ECM control)
  • Revised filter and seal
1988:
  • New 1-2 shift valve
  • Load release springs added to 3-4 clutch pack
  • Case change L/R hub
  • Type-18 wiring harness removes 4-3 pulse switch
  • Improved governor gear
1989:
  • Name changes to 4L60
  • Valvebody no longer has a bore for TCC lockup valve
  • Short lip seals introduced for forward, reverse and 3-4 clutches
1991:
  • High energy 3-4 friction plates
  • New rubber seal, input housing to output shaft
1993:
  • 4L60-E phased in
  • 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator changes
  • New reverse input housing
  • Thicker steels in 3-4 clutch
1995: PWM lockup
1996: separate bellhousing, updated input clutch housing and 13-vane pump
2001: All new sun shell with 6-disc 3-4 clutch
 
Blue85 said:
Here's what I compiled at some point:

1982: TH700R-4 is introduced, using 7-vane pump and 7-element forward roller clutch assembly
later '82: upgrade of forward roller clutch to a sprag
1984-1986.5: input shaft goes from 27-spline to 30
1984:
  • New input housing with ball capsule
  • larger diameter turbine shaft
  • new rear internal ring gear
  • new 10-vane "732" pump
1985:
  • planetary gears upgraded to "batwing washer" style
  • added inner pump slide spring
  • new reaction carrier with oil dam
1986:
  • Reverse input housing thickened in band apply area
  • new low roller clutch (longer rollers)
  • new accumulator pistons and seals
1987:
  • Electronic speed sensor
  • Aux valve body softens engagement
  • new overrun clutch hub
  • 28-element forward sprag
  • new spacer plate
  • 2-4 servo pin seal rings and grooves eliminated
  • Ball capsule added in reverse passage (case)
  • Type-15 wiring harness and temperature switch
  • upgraded sun shell with 5-disc stepped-plate 3-4 clutch (this may also be when the thrust washer against it was replaced by torrington bearing).
  • TCC lockup valve now plugged in the valve body (to coincide with ECM control)
  • Revised filter and seal
1988:
  • New 1-2 shift valve
  • Load release springs added to 3-4 clutch pack
  • Case change L/R hub
  • Type-18 wiring harness removes 4-3 pulse switch
  • Improved governor gear
1989:
  • Name changes to 4L60
  • Valvebody no longer has a bore for TCC lockup valve
  • Short lip seals introduced for forward, reverse and 3-4 clutches
1991:
  • High energy 3-4 friction plates
  • New rubber seal, input housing to output shaft
1993:
  • 4L60-E phased in
  • 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator changes
  • New reverse input housing
  • Thicker steels in 3-4 clutch
1995: PWM lockup
1996: separate bellhousing, updated input clutch housing and 13-vane pump
2001: All new sun shell with 6-disc 3-4 clutch
Click to expand...
So I was wrong 87 is the year they made the most changes, I remember I was told to use those to rebuild if possible
 
It felt like it responds better, it made it up a hill by my house with more ease! I still feel like I need the carb tuned better. Next step get engine tuned better!
 
Well ain’t this about a b@&$, fix one thing and now need another fix! I’ve been driving the truck and now it’s making a weird noise kinda like a card on a bike tire! Only makes noise when I drive. It’s shifting a little rough now too. I’m guessing the transmission is going out? Should I get rebuilt or just get the 700
 
Forget which trans you have. But no matter which you have, the flex plate should be inspected for a crack. A lot cheaper than a new rebuilt trans.
Remove inspection cover, remove flex plate to torque converter bolts. Push converter into trans pump. Use a light to look up between the torque converter and plate, near crank,while push and pulling on edge of flex plate. If you see a lot of rusty or shinny lines it is probably cracked.
 
Last edited:
Blazer Ralph said:
Well ain’t this about a b@&$, fix one thing and now need another fix! I’ve been driving the truck and now it’s making a weird noise kinda like a card on a bike tire! Only makes noise when I drive. It’s shifting a little rough now too. I’m guessing the transmission is going out? Should I get rebuilt or just get the 700
Click to expand...
Yeah there are a few things to check before you condemn the transmission, it could also be a U-joint.
One thing to help diagnose is to get moving and put it in neutral if the noises changes it could be a clue.
It can't be the flexplate if it only comes when moving, it would actually be worse idling.
It could also be bad front axle U-joint.
Do you drive it with locked hubs?
 
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