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At this point, its hard to say. The starter draws a lot of current. More if its not getting full voltage.
With the problems you were having, its possible that the solenoid was damaged and is sticking.
The solenoid is fired by the purple wire. If something is keeping this hot, then the starter will crank.
Before you try anything else, check to be sure that the purple wire is not close to the lug going from the solenoid to the starter.

If not, then you are gong to have to troubleshoot the system to tell what is happening.

I know you don't want anymore wiring problems, but you might try cutting the purple wire, hooking on some extensions, and either splicing it where you can get to it, or adding a switch.
Then, if you can get it to keep cranking, break the connection and see if it stops. If it does, then its in that circuit, possibly the ignition switch.

If it keeps cranking, then its the solenoid.
 
This wiring harness was hacked to pieces. No purple wire. I have 2 fusible links(new) and the main power wire going onto one lug on the starter. On the back sides of the links is a red wire(the one that goes into the black thing and has 2 reds out the other side) and a black wire. Then on the side lug closest to the block on the starter, I have a single black wire on it. The lug going from starter to starter solenoid, is that the metal piece connecting the two toward the front of the car? Because I don't see a wire connecting the two.
 
Yep, the lug is the connection between the solenoid and the starter. They don't use a wire, just that copper piece.
When you turn on the solenoid, usually with a purple wire on the terminal with the one wire, it throws power to that copper piece.

If the solenoid trigger wire were to be against that lug, then it could latch the solenoid on and keep the starter cranking.

Sounds like your purple wire is black. It should be the only wire on that one terminal.
When you turn the key to crank, it puts 12 volts on that terminal and that causes the solenoid to pull in and start the starter to cranking.
 
Sounds like a plan. Tomorrow, I will pull the wire that is by itself on the starter off. Attach a longer wire to it to run out from under the truck. Then loop it back to that lug. I don't have a switch so I will just cut it in the middle and splice it back together ready to be pulled apart. Then I will try to crank it. If it does that thing, which I'm sure it will, as soon as it starts, I will have my helper pull the wires apart. If it stops trying, then it is in the ignition somewhere. If it continues then it is the starter solenoid. Do I have all that correct?
 
Do I have all that correct?
Click to expand...
Yep. Its kind of a chintzy way to do it. The proper way would be to have a meter hooked to it and watch the voltage.
But I have done things like this before, and it has the advantage of being fast, easy, and positive.
Just make sure there is no way for that terminal to get voltage from any other wires on the solenoid, and that will tell you what the problem is.

When working on a strange electrical problem on a truck, I always make sure I have plenty of wire.
If I think I have a ground problem, I hook a wire directly to the ground side of the battery, and use it to probe things that are supposed to be grounded.

Tail light sockets, things like that. If they start working when I do, it narrows down the problem.

If I have a current drain, I hook a test light in series with the positive terminal of the battery and the main feed.
Everybody does that.

My trick, is to use long enough wire so that I can have the bulb right in front when I am pulling fuses.

BUT, if you are using a wire hooked to the + terminal for a probe, be sure its fused at the battery.
Gotten burnt a couple of times when doing tests out in the woods and did not have a fuse holder handy...........
 
Sorry to highjack, but you may end up having this problem anyways. Instead of a light, you can use a multimeter in series. What is the acceptable draw in ohms before it actually becomes serious? I assume a TBI would be higher than a carb correct?
 
Couple of points:
Many times you will have to finish with a meter, because some systems draw some current all the time normally.

But, in case its not a typo, its rare that you will be using ohms to find the problem. First of all, ohms cannot be used on a circuit that has any power at all, and if you are using it, unless you are set on "diode" on the ohmmeter, the short may not show up.

If its an electronic component that is turning on and causing the drain, then an ohmmeter will not put out enough voltage to let it turn on.

A voltmeter is surprisingly useless. Putting one in series will only tell you there is enough of a drain to drive the meter to full voltage.
Which for most meters, is in the milliamp range.
A test light, will not light up at that amount of current, so if it does, then you have a serious drain.

The correct way to use a multimeter, is with the amps function. By putting it in series with the power lead, you can determine exactly how much current is being drawn.
Trouble is, most meters cannot handle much current. One or two amps will blow the fuse.
A couple of my meters have a 20 amp setting, and they are useful, but I have blown the fuses on them a couple of times.
Its real easy to forget and turn on a load above 20 amps without realizing it.

I used to have a Simpson with a circuit breaker that tripped at 20 and it was nice. My other meters required disassembly to replace the fuse, and then you had to find a fuse.

I use a test light to start with, and when it gets dim, I break out the ammeter.

Actually, thats not true much anymore. Now I have a DC clamp-on ampprobe that lets me measure any current I want.
 
I found a reman starter/solenoid unit at oreiley's for $30 so I decided to just swap it out and see what happened. It worked fine. Turned it on and off about 10 times with no problem. Then I drove it around a few hours. NO PROBLEMS!!! So I went by a pawn shop and bought a head unit. Now I have power, lights, and sound. Moving up in the world guys. Can't tell y'all how much I appreciate all the help. I was lost a week ago. Ready to use this one as parts and pick up a new one. Now I'm thinking I need to swap wiring harnesses, but it doesn't scare me at all anymore.
Thanks again.
 
Sounds like you are getting there. The main aftereffect I see for all this, is the brake lines.
Brake fluid is designed to get really hot without breaking down. A flush might not be a bad idea, but be prepared to replace the master cylinder afterwards.

I suspect unless its really nasty looking or has a strange smell, it should be OK.
The brake lines are another matter.

They are galvanized or coated to prevent rust. If they got hot enough, they might start rusting.
They are fairly hard also, and its possible that they were softened by the heat, but I doubt that they got soft enough to burst under pressure.

I would just watch for rust. If they start rusting, or you already have some rust, there are some really good aftermarket replacement setups out there.

Factory type or stainless.

I got my stainless set for my Ford from this outfit: http://inlinetube.com/

All the bends were perfect, all the flares, nuts, and guards were dead on.

BTW, the master cylinder comment is because it is really common to have to replace the master after brakes are flushed or bled.
With the adjusters a master cylinder mostly spends its whole life with the piston moving through the same part of the cylinder.
Moisture builds up and the parts of the cylinder that don't get used rusts or gets otherwise dirty.

When you bleed the brakes, you bottom out the master, which pushes the piston into new territory. Usually damaging the seals.

A few days later, you notice the brake pedal slowly dropping as you sit at a red light..........
 
I took a look at the lines. No rust that I can see. Also the brake feel just like it did before. Loose for an inch or so and then strong. I need to bleed them anyway. And if I understand you correctly, there is a strong possibility I will need to change the master cylinder when I do. And if bleeding can screw up a master cylinder, I suppose it is a buy new not out of the bone yard item?
 
Yep, there are some things you don't want used........
 
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