What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

no tuning required carb problem *UPDATED* carb in

google

google

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 19, 2005
Posts
805
Reaction score
0
Location
Arizona
Got a new edelbrock (SPELLING) carb today. They are supposed to be no tuning required. The guy at the counter is one of those "master mechanic that could only pull down a part sales position" kinda guys. He screwed with the two little screws and said that they were now right for my 350. He just screwed them both down all the way and screwed them back out 2 and a half turns. If this doesn't work, then what? Should I go to the manager and say PAY MY MECHANIC TO FIX THIS? I could just turn it in and get another one i'm sure, but then I have to spend more time taking it off and putting another one on. This is pissing me off thinking about it and I haven't even put it on yet (had to go to work) Anyone here know about carbs and if this guy just screwed mine up. Will I need to get it tuned now or get another one?
 
Last edited:
Which edelbrock is it? I personally know nothing about any of them except the Q-jet clones.
 
with it runing take and turn 1 in at a time all the way. then turn out till smoothed out and give 1/2 turn more then do other side . should be good.
 
Well , even out of the box you will at least need to adjust your idle mixture and idle speed .

As for the Edelbrock , even with the off road needle and seat ( which you'll need to buy ) , it can and will stall on certain inclines .

I borrowed my friends Edelbrock off his old Monte Carlo ( sold car kept carb ) while I was waitinng on my Quadrajet ( original q-jet has bad throttle shafts ) and that Edelbrock gave me nothing but trouble the second I left pavement .
 
It says "no adjustments required. bolt in and go" And where do I look for the off road thingamabober? Can this be given a quick fix with an electric fuel pump with a toggle switch like I had on my scout?
 
The fuel pump won't keep it from stalling . And if you did buy an electric pump you should buy a regulator anyway .

The needle and seat kit should be in any speed shop .

Don't believe anyone who says no adjustments required , they have no idea what intake/exhaust/cam you have on the assembly line !
 
it appears that we have the same carb- 600 cfm part #1406? the spring loaded needle and seat kit is part # 1465, i do not know anything about this kit because i am gonna order mine this week. out of all the carbs i have run on my burban- this one is bar far the best, it just takes a little playing with. Good luck later Ryan
 
I Have A 1406 Edelbrock And To Get My Tuned Right ,i Hooked A Vacuum Gauge To A Good Manifold Source And Adjusted The Needles To Read The Highest Manifold Vacuum At Idle. Also Edelbrock Recommends You Run At 6# Fuel Pressure. Its All In The Operating And Tuning Manual That Came With Your Carb.i Haven't Had Any Problems With Mine But I Do Have To Change The Settings In Winter And Summer.
 
I have had 3 of these carbs on 3 different engines , and all of them right on at 2.5 turns out. I have found that if you run an Edlebrock carb off road ,make sure you have a good battery
 
4trolls said:
I have had 3 of these carbs on 3 different engines , and all of them right on at 2.5 turns out. I have found that if you run an Edlebrock carb off road ,make sure you have a good battery
Click to expand...

What does the battery have to do with the carb? I ask because I've had no problems with my battery and after replacing the carb, I lost all battery power. I had to take off the wires and clean them, even though I didn't see anything wrong, put them back on and it started right back up. I doubt that's what you mean, but it's funny.
 
Ok, I got the carb in and my truck running. BUT, it's not running great. I can't push the peddle all the way down. I can't get it to the point of down shifting and passing..... does that make sense? Like the cable is too long or something. Also, I can't just start it up anymore. When I start it, it runs real crappy and I have to give it gas to keep it going. Once it's warm, it runs fine..... UNTIL I put it in reverse. Then it dies on me. I have the idle turned way up for now so I could drive it to work, but there is definately a problem. Anyone in the Mesa/gilbert area wanna come take a look?
 
the crappy running at stert up is most likely the choke, if its an electric choke there will be a black plastic cup on the passenger side of the carb with 2 wires hooked to it. this controls the high idle at start up , you adjust it by turnning it. the reason I said you need a good battery is because when you wheel with an Edlebrock carb you will be re-starting your engine alot :D
 
Mine has a manual choke (engine from late 70s vette) and I set it up the same as my last carb. My old carb had a wide open choke all the time. It would start right up and i could drive away with no problems. I used a spring/bracket set up from checkers to make it do the same thing that the previouse owner did with a foot long spring and a hanger (ghetto fab). So, I put a spring in and made the choke wide open.
 
If I were to use an automatic choke, how does it work? How do I hook it up? What would I hook it to? In short, would it be easier for me to get one with an electric choke and hook it up?
 
I think its the ez way to go, if you truck is a non hei ingnition the I belive you just run a wire from the pos side of the coil to the choke and then a ground to the other post on the choke, I'm not 100% though so maybe someone will chime in
 
I don' t know what non hei means. My truck is nolonger electronic ignition though. Has distributer and what not. BUT, I did replace the distributer coil with an MSD :grin:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom