CK5
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noob welding pics...beware preety bad..

im prolly gonna start some more practice after the 27th...thats my b-day and i hope to be getting a new hood (not taking any chances with mine)...that gives me time to make a table,make a extention cord and buy some new rods...i think mine have been exposed to moisture..
 
You'll never get flamed for posting up practice weld pic's. Maybe if you had claimed to be the best welder on the planet and those were welds holding your steering together...:p:

Keep us posted.

Rene
 
yeah i looked at new helmets today...i just dont trust mine..it can be a back up...i think im gonna get a solar auto...is that the way to go??
 
I'm old skool...my helmet is your run of the mill fibremetal with the large lens and is flip down. No fancy electronic stuff for me. :p:

Rene
 
I have 3 electronics. Seems just about the time I get one with all the bells and whistles, they come out with new bells and whistles.

My best one has a grind setting. Kinda nice to have. Comfortable and light weight which makes a big difference if you wear it for a length of time.
 
Seems like the solar helmets lose their charge when kept in a shop that is closed up. If you were doing alot of welding I guess the light from welding would recharge it. I just let my brother do my welding since he does it for a living.
 
like so many on here have said, keep practicing. get a bunch of scrap metal and lay beads until you stop getting stuck and feel comfortable. remember to watch your puddle and not just the electrode. then start practicing trying to weld 2 pieces together. show your work to someone who welds for a living and discuss your work w/ them. they can tell you if you're too hot/ cold/ slow or fast or getting good penetration.

if your local vocational h.s or comm. collece has a welding class, take it. i took one last fall and it was well worth the time. it was only about $300 (materials included), 1 night a week for 12 weeks. we got to practice with stick, mig, tig and gas welding. i know i'm not an expert by any means, but i'm confident that i know what to look for now when i do weld and can adjust accordingly.

here's a couple of pics of what i'm talking about for practice. first one is just a piece of 1/4" plate about 8"x8". there's about 5 layers of rod on it.

second piece is after i got a little control and started welding 2 pieces together.

third is some practice w/ my lincoln 135 mig.
 
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back from the dead...im finnaly gonna get a chance to do some more practice tomm but first i have a question..

i need to make an extition cord for my welder...im no electrician by any means so does anyone have a step-by-step guide to building a 220 extition cord??
 
I re-wired my big compressor (that is also 220) and made it 25' long so I could wheel it around the garage if need-be. I checked the guage on the old wiring then went to the local hardware store and bought one step thicker (might as well) in three strands then bought the ends that fit my 220 in the garage (there are more than one style prong) and then just popped the ends on.
The ends open up and you just strip the wires and stick them in and tighten them down.
 
alright here are some pics from today....i used a 6013 rod (small size 1/16 i think)

here are some pics with the heat up starting at 175 and coming down to 90
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here are some at 90 and 40 they turned out better but i dont think the penetration is as good...i think i need a thinker rod...i can burn through one of theese in like no time...
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so oponions???advise???
 
For one those pictures suck.

You need to slow down, you are going way to fast. Slow down and try to keep a straight toe and consistant bead size
 
slow down. with the heat up you should get real good penetration but have to move your hand real slow to get a nice looking bead. your gonna burn through rods. thats what they are for. you should not end up with a bead as long as the rod. I would say anywhere from half as long to a third as long depending on how deep you are cutting.
 
good to know...am i good with the 6013s or should i try another rod??also should i be trying with a larger rod...i found it a lil easier before because i have a ton of 6011s that are large (dont know the size)...they werent nearly as flimsy and seemed to last a lil longer..
 
those beads look exactly the same as when I first began welding, except I was using a crappy wire feed we had at the auto shop in college. Is all good man, listen to the advice and you will get good at it in no time. I use a MillerMatic 210 currently and boy can I make some pretty welds/beads with it!! I have never worked with a stick welder so I can't give you any tips on that, but maybe you may want to try welding with a wire feed welder, it is the easiest of all. Also, you need a good helmet, those auto dimming ones make it a breeze too. Good luck and keep improving on those beads dude...:)
 
i can't believe no1 mentioned, there is a trick to welding....you have to learn the molten puddle of metal from the molten slag for 1.....and u are definitley trying to string ur weld out....slow down the forward progression...and let the puddle fill out to the same width everytime, b4 you step forward....and if you will put ur metal on a slight incline(up to a 45*) and weld up hill it will help the slag run behind ur puddle.... and u only have to weave the rod if you are bridging a wide gap....so slow down let your puddle fill out, then step forward in a straight line, step about the thickness of your rod each step.
when starting out with a new rod, i hold the rod between my fingers w/ my free hand just a couple of inches up from end to hold rod steady.

as far as hoods, i wouldn't change my huntsman for anything on the market, i had an auto darkening hood that was acting just like you are describing....it took me forever to figure out that my hand or my stinger was blocking the sensor eye from the arc letting it go back to light, i hate auto darkening hoods! i use a huntsman with a cheater lens. cheater lens are magnification lens ranging from .5 to 3x magnification and it makes you look like you are just inches away from the arc!!
 
ok so changing to a 1.8 rod made alot of diffrence...here is wahat i can tell you after wasting about 10 rods

1.i cant run a bead at 90 amps yet,105 im fine just not 90 (always sticks)
2.i understand "fallowing the puddle" now
3.i use a back and forth motion to run the bead
4.ambers burn bad when they fall in your glove

the beads turned out alot better for sure...i dont know what the hitch i was welding on was made of but it smelled like arse when welding on it...sorry for the bad pics

anyway onto the pics...
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cleaned the suface well
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Lookin better towards the end there, try to keep the bead straight, unless you are going for the curve.

Does your camera not have a focus function? Holy crap
 
no it sucks my g/f got it for me last year and i think it was like 50 bucks or something..i need to buy a new one but its always low on the list
 
Getting the heat dialed in close for any size of rod is easy. 1/8" rod is 0.125" and runs good at 125 amps. 3/32" rod is 0.093" and runs good at 93 amps. Approximately 1 amp for every thou of rod thickness will always have you right in the ballpark.

No need to weave, a straight drag works best. Puddle size...aim for it to be about 1.5-2 times the diameter of the rod you're using.

Rene
 
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