i was actually waiting for you to chime in and have been following the post you linked. I would just like to turn it up as much as possible without too much soot or too high egts.
I was also going to ask how do you hook up a tach on a cummins?
on 91.5-93 intercooled trucks there is a wiring harness under the dash, on your non-intercooled truck, sadly no, you have to either hook one through the alternator or run magnetic pickups on the damper, you really dont need a tach unless your running it really hard, the truck governs itself to 2750 rpms stock, you can get the 3200 governor spring and put it in and that will help alot (a p-pump cummins will turn 5,000 rpm's with just fueling mods and a dampner so dont worry about spinning it to hard).....if your never going to tow with it and you put the 3200 spring in it you will be fine, but if you are going to tow i would recommend a pyrometer and keep it under 1200 degrees and dont hold it at 1200 for more than a few seconds.....
i read somewhere that if you take the pump open under the diafram that you can set the fuel pin to the part of the shaft with the most taper letting it open the most in other words. Do you happen to have a pic of that so i can better understand? Even a drawing would help if you actualy understand what im talking about.
if you look at my link, it shows your afc (air-fuel control) housing in the first two pictures, that is the fuel pin going down the middle in grey, you will see the notch in it and the little red pin riding on it, that is how the deepest part of the notch should face, towards the front of the truck, if you read the green words it will explain how to do it......once you get inside you will realize what its talking about.....its very simple and only takes a few minutes to do......ive had people that have never touched an engine in their lives tell me it was easy, so......
there was also something about a throttle stop that i havent figured out yet. Something to the effect of adjusting it in to get even more throttle. I have been reading everything i can before messing with it too much.
yes, its a piece of all-thread that runs through 2 ears on the driver side of the pump, it serves absolutely no purpose but to limit the throttle movement, i took mine completely out and threw it away.....you can also adjust the throttle shaft to get more fuel too but for you i dont recommend it....
also i have conflicting info about head bolt strenth. Some say with the stock turbo they are fine but if you change to a 14m or 16mm compressor you need to upgrade to head studs.
The other side of the fence says you can stress the head bolts with the stock turbo. So witch one is correct?
hardly....the 14 or 16 housing will not blow the head gasket, if it does blow it, it wasnt far from going anyways then, unless you step up to a bigger turbo then i would not worry about head studs.....
this is my first time turning up a diesel. I had one of my 6.2's turned up enough to get black smoke but a friend did that for me. I know i can run it too rich without much problems as long as i dont do long pulls and get the egts too high but im more afraid of popping head bolts or running it too lean so im causious because i dont really know.
I swapped on a '94 model WH1C turbo, I'm getting some 100 HP injectors and a low pressure, piston style lift pump. Should be right about 300 hp when I'm done. A nice upgrade from the 155 HP of the 6.2 
