The 400p comes with it: https://www.viaircorp.com/portables/400p
CK5
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Not a Fitech-Now a Sniper 2 and boat anchor
- Thread starter Hosalabad
- Start date
Now I see it...I have the 450c, no tray. I don't see the tray for sale on the website, but I'll call and see if I can get one. Thanks for the help! Looking forward to seeing how the build turns out.
I saw the post by @Kain I added some KC Cyclones.
One above the rear view mirror and two under hood. I was bummed that I couldn’t tie the interior light to the door switch. The switch on the negative, but despite these lights being anodized, they still conduct through the anodization, so the light was going to always stay on. I ended up adding a SPDT switch with one throw for the inside and the other for under hood. On the hood they are loomed an clipped down the center, then they run to the driver's side and drop down by the inside of the wiper motor.
One above the rear view mirror and two under hood. I was bummed that I couldn’t tie the interior light to the door switch. The switch on the negative, but despite these lights being anodized, they still conduct through the anodization, so the light was going to always stay on. I ended up adding a SPDT switch with one throw for the inside and the other for under hood. On the hood they are loomed an clipped down the center, then they run to the driver's side and drop down by the inside of the wiper motor.
Added some loom and wire clips.
Kain
3/4 ton status
NICE
Box man dropped off a present:
Whoa Mama!
Whoa Mama!
Is that a full system?
Damn, wrong pulley.
Thinking about doing the same in the crewcab.
Kit looks good out of the box. Well packed, parts are well sorted. The compressor in the box is the wrong part number doesn't match the invoice, so looks like a pick/ship mistake.
Fuel injection, fixed exhaust leak, now a/c.... I feel like we’re wheeling with the Jefferson’s. 
I actually read about the same thing happening to someone else. Somebody in the warehouse must just got into default mode and not pay attention to differences.
I called Vintage Air today, and they are sending Fedex to pick up the first one, and cross shipping me a replacement. Took about 5 minutes, I'm real happy how they handled it.
I might develop a problem on the next trip and have to ride with you. lol
Fuel injection, fixed exhaust leak, now a/c.... I feel like we’re wheeling with the Jefferson’s.
You forgot the Cruise Control !
Vintage Air Installation Day 1
Tear down and Condensor.
For the teardown, it starts like all projects do. Take off a the front passenger wheel and inner fender. Next I had to remove my Warn solenoid box, in order to remove the grille. Next remove the hood latch and the center support for the core.
There is a round plate that will install where the factory lines pass through, it has a smaller 1.25” diameter, the factory hole 1.5”. Later there is a grommet to fit this plate that insulates the hard lines.
It says to use factory holes, I had an upper, but not the lower. I centered the plate on the existing hole and drilled out for two bolts. I may have to move it later.
On to the Condensor.
There are three brackets. Two for support, and a third for the receiver/dryer.
Stop here and just install the first two. It’s cumbersome to test fit the whole kit with the R/D and lines on.
Here are the instructions and my first attempt. The passenger side bracket is backwards. This is where I discovered that it’s cumbersome to install it with the R/D and lines.
Just install the mount brackets, you’ll have to deal with their alignment. There is a bit of play between the mounting holes in the Condensor and the bracket. I finally just installed the well nuts, then measured them center to center.
Top holes were 25-7/8”, bottom an even 26”.
There is a clearance problem to deal with, the bracket reaches into where the core support comes forward. I’m just going to bend it. If I miss, I’ll cut the corner off.
Once the brackets are set. Install the third bracket for the R/D and the hard lines.
Pay attention to the markings on the R/D the sticker was on the backside, but there is a stamping for IN which faces the driver side.
I had to bend the straps to get them to line up when closed around the R/D.
After that, it’s time to start loosely fitting the hard line. Remember the O rings, and use the included lube. It’s packed in a different part of the kit.
Tear down and Condensor.
For the teardown, it starts like all projects do. Take off a the front passenger wheel and inner fender. Next I had to remove my Warn solenoid box, in order to remove the grille. Next remove the hood latch and the center support for the core.
There is a round plate that will install where the factory lines pass through, it has a smaller 1.25” diameter, the factory hole 1.5”. Later there is a grommet to fit this plate that insulates the hard lines.
It says to use factory holes, I had an upper, but not the lower. I centered the plate on the existing hole and drilled out for two bolts. I may have to move it later.
On to the Condensor.
There are three brackets. Two for support, and a third for the receiver/dryer.
Stop here and just install the first two. It’s cumbersome to test fit the whole kit with the R/D and lines on.
Here are the instructions and my first attempt. The passenger side bracket is backwards. This is where I discovered that it’s cumbersome to install it with the R/D and lines.
Just install the mount brackets, you’ll have to deal with their alignment. There is a bit of play between the mounting holes in the Condensor and the bracket. I finally just installed the well nuts, then measured them center to center.
Top holes were 25-7/8”, bottom an even 26”.
There is a clearance problem to deal with, the bracket reaches into where the core support comes forward. I’m just going to bend it. If I miss, I’ll cut the corner off.
Once the brackets are set. Install the third bracket for the R/D and the hard lines.
Pay attention to the markings on the R/D the sticker was on the backside, but there is a stamping for IN which faces the driver side.
I had to bend the straps to get them to line up when closed around the R/D.
After that, it’s time to start loosely fitting the hard line. Remember the O rings, and use the included lube. It’s packed in a different part of the kit.
I appreciate the detailed install.
Day two: Have so much fun doing it, so you can do it twice.
Yesterday I thought one bracket was wrong, it wasn’t. Today I discovered that the other one was actually wrong, so I got to switch both of them.
This resolved the clearance problem on the driver side.
The passenger side bracket, if backwards puts the R/D too high and it hits the top of the core support.
Very closely compare the drawering to the brackets. Also wear your glasses.
Having made it to mounting, I have found that the chimney bolts like to fall out when unattended. I would recommend a few clothespins on the backside, or something similar to keep them in place.
The R/D has a port for a pressure switch.
The instructions say to install it after the condensor is in the truck. This is hogwash. Put it on the bench. It ships with a plug in the port, make sure when you remove it you get the o-ring as well. A new one is on the pressure switch.
Next you’re on to the hard lines for the R/D and the #8 port at the top.
The line that goes to the R/D is a #6. It can be put on with little effort with the Condensor in place.
The #8 line however is a pain.
Take steps to check the bends. Mine was too obtuse, when it needed to be pretty close to a 90. This made hole alignment while tightening on the Condensor a problem. With the greatest of care, I bent it to about 91-92 degrees to get it working, it was more than a few degrees out.
All of the connections are capped, and some are capped with a rubber plug underneath. I found at least one time that I was about to screw on a line, with the rubber plug in place, so this is another important time to doublecheck what is going on.
To install the #8 line I had to take three bolts out of the Condensor and it would move around just enough to let the line go through the core support and sill thread into the Condensor. This is where the bend angle came into play. I took out all but the top driver side screw.
The grommet wasn’t too hard. Time consuming, use blunt tools. It is on the plate I bolted in, and fits inside of the factory 1.5” hole. That hole could be opened up to 1.75 or 2” pretty easily to make room for the grommet.
Yesterday I thought one bracket was wrong, it wasn’t. Today I discovered that the other one was actually wrong, so I got to switch both of them.
This resolved the clearance problem on the driver side.
The passenger side bracket, if backwards puts the R/D too high and it hits the top of the core support.
Very closely compare the drawering to the brackets. Also wear your glasses.
Having made it to mounting, I have found that the chimney bolts like to fall out when unattended. I would recommend a few clothespins on the backside, or something similar to keep them in place.
The R/D has a port for a pressure switch.
The instructions say to install it after the condensor is in the truck. This is hogwash. Put it on the bench. It ships with a plug in the port, make sure when you remove it you get the o-ring as well. A new one is on the pressure switch.
Next you’re on to the hard lines for the R/D and the #8 port at the top.
The line that goes to the R/D is a #6. It can be put on with little effort with the Condensor in place.
The #8 line however is a pain.
Take steps to check the bends. Mine was too obtuse, when it needed to be pretty close to a 90. This made hole alignment while tightening on the Condensor a problem. With the greatest of care, I bent it to about 91-92 degrees to get it working, it was more than a few degrees out.
All of the connections are capped, and some are capped with a rubber plug underneath. I found at least one time that I was about to screw on a line, with the rubber plug in place, so this is another important time to doublecheck what is going on.
To install the #8 line I had to take three bolts out of the Condensor and it would move around just enough to let the line go through the core support and sill thread into the Condensor. This is where the bend angle came into play. I took out all but the top driver side screw.
The grommet wasn’t too hard. Time consuming, use blunt tools. It is on the plate I bolted in, and fits inside of the factory 1.5” hole. That hole could be opened up to 1.75 or 2” pretty easily to make room for the grommet.
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