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Not another 14 bolt disc brake thread

k20

k20

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Posts
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Location
Mineral Springs, NC
Alrighty, after driving my new truck all winter, pulled out the K20 and realized the brakes suck.....ok they sucked before, just didnt realize how much.

Anyway, now Im thinking of doing the 10 bolt calipers/ruffstuff brackets, blah blah blah. My questions

1. I royally suck at flaring brake tubing. Does anyone sell braided lines going from the T all the way out to the caliper?

2. Ive read a thousand threads with different info as to whether I need to add a residual pressure valve, gut the prop valve, change masters, etc. I have hydroboost now, what would be the most direct swap in 4wdb master that I can get, and would I need to gut the prop valve? I read about P30 van master but never saw if it was for hydroboost and never saw a year/engine/option package, to tell the parts monkeys I need

Thanks guys
 
Does this mean it won't make it on Saturday?

Chris in regards to question 1...check out my build thread, post 57....BGKYK5 looks like he has some, and I think there is a better pic of a setup from the frame T to the calipers on that thread too.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261694

check out posts 260-262 for better pics of his setup.
 
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no it'll be there saturday (well, should be anyway) just needs improving......if it aint broke, fix it til it is......
 
great....it'll bring back old memories.

See ya Sat.
 
ORD has a braided steel long line kit. Theres a thread in the ORD forum on this site. $120 i think, its what im going to run when i get my 1 tons installed because i also suck at hardlines.
 
Long rubber or braided lines are a no no. There is too much "give" in a line of that length and you will end up with a spongy pedal.
 
k20 said:
Alrighty, after driving my new truck all winter, pulled out the K20 and realized the brakes suck.....ok they sucked before, just didnt realize how much.

Anyway, now Im thinking of doing the 10 bolt calipers/ruffstuff brackets, blah blah blah. My questions

1. I royally suck at flaring brake tubing. Does anyone sell braided lines going from the T all the way out to the caliper?

2. Ive read a thousand threads with different info as to whether I need to add a residual pressure valve, gut the prop valve, change masters, etc. I have hydroboost now, what would be the most direct swap in 4wdb master that I can get, and would I need to gut the prop valve? I read about P30 van master but never saw if it was for hydroboost and never saw a year/engine/option package, to tell the parts monkeys I need

Thanks guys
Click to expand...


I'm gonna run this valve... complete control of the front/rear bias...


sum-g3910_cp.jpg
 
I converted and have always had some sort of soft break, must pump the peddle issue.

I tried the 4w disc MC, that was listed in one conversion thread but it will not clear my hood. I, like you never read anywhere which valve MC combo to run that would work. Hell, I couldn't even find a thread that confirmed going from a steal reservoir to a plastic one was ok.

I purchased the TSM large caddie calipers and the only way the parking break works is if the rears are adjusted to a point that the truck wont roll forward in drive is to have them so tight that they start to overheat going down the road.

I'm pretty sure at the end of the day, I'll end up changing over to the 1/2 calipers and doing some sort of drive line parking break.


Bending and flaring your lines wont be that hard. If you need photos of how they are routed I can take some for you.
 
combatmatt said:
ORD has a braided steel long line kit. Theres a thread in the ORD forum on this site. $120 i think, its what im going to run when i get my 1 tons installed because i also suck at hardlines.
Click to expand...

That is what I used:
small_DSC07304.JPG


small_DSC07293.JPG


I'm happy with them. Just that if you get them make sure they aren't clogged from the factory. I had a hell of a time diagnosing why no fluid was getting to the rear. Ended up being a clogged ORD drop brake line. It was a defect that ORD replaced. These lines are pressure tested, just not flow tested :D

I would recommend them though.
 
long soft lines = spongy brakes. Get as much hard line in the system as you can.

If you don't want to flare the lines your self go to Napa and get your self a set of hard lines the appropriate length. Napa has pre-flaired hard lines in legnths from 6" to 6' in 6 inch increments.

Use a coat hanger and bend up a mock up line then measure up the hanger to get the proper length hard line.


Cheers,

Rufus
 
well I was thinking about it some more today. I have the factory height sensing valve on mine. It isnt hooked up of course, but could I use that as my brake bias adjustment? Just crank on it til I get it adjusted correctly? My understanding of how it works is it was an automatic brake bias control.
 
rufusbooth said:
long soft lines = spongy brakes. Get as much hard line in the system as you can.

If you don't want to flare the lines your self go to Napa and get your self a set of hard lines the appropriate length. Napa has pre-flaired hard lines in legnths from 6" to 6' in 6 inch increments.

Use a coat hanger and bend up a mock up line then measure up the hanger to get the proper length hard line.


Cheers,

Rufus
Click to expand...

Not true. I know plenty of people running brake systems with little to no hard lines and have extremely good brakes and are not spongy.
 
I used the stock lines that I pulled off the front of the truck in the yard... Cut off the ends on the hard lines and used a flaring tool to make the hard line fit it... Brakes seem fine...


Here's how it's ran...

0908101330.jpg
 
No top, completely open and propane...

Doesn't bother me...:D

I do need to turn them down though... I just cut them off and never dealt with it...


Yep, pulled the brakes off of a k20...
 
haha yeh, got it done longgg ago. Ended up using the stock hard lines and some braided lines from the hard to the calipers. Stops pretty good, but I keep forgetting I dont have a parking brake anymore. I stop, put it in park and step on the pedal and have a :doah: moment
 
If you bend up your lines, then take them to a brake/muffler shop they can flare them for you. We were working on a truck, forgot the flare tool, so just took the lines down to the Midas shop a few blocks away and they made four flares for $10. That was a well spent $10 for the convenience.
 
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