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Wyatt Tankersley

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So I'm trying try to get my 86 k5 blazer with a 350 with a new camshaft start but it won t start. It will back fire out of the carb and exhaust but wont try to start I put the engine a tdc and all that stuff to put the distributor in and it has spark and fuel to it anyone got any suggestions
 
Are you sure the spark plug wiring is correct?

That TDC is the same for the crank and valves of #1?

I'd put it at TDC.
Remove the valve cover and make sure both valves on #1 are closed.

Then check your distributor rotor is pointed at #1 wire.
Go around the cap 18436572.

Happens a lot.

Other things;
Improperly set rocker arm/lifter preload?

You made sure the timing marks on the timing set were lined up?
 
Are you sure the spark plug wiring is correct?

That TDC is the same for the crank and valves of #1?

I'd put it at TDC.
Remove the valve cover and make sure both valves on #1 are closed.

Then check your distributor rotor is pointed at #1 wire.
Go around the cap 18436572.

Happens a lot.

Other things;
Improperly set rocker arm/lifter preload?

You made sure the timing marks on the timing set were lined up?
I will double check the tdc and spark plugs wires and all good and in order. And the valves I would put it at the lowest part of the cam and tighten down the rocker to where there was no play then did 1/2 turn
 
Are you sure the spark plug wiring is correct?

That TDC is the same for the crank and valves of #1?

I'd put it at TDC.
Remove the valve cover and make sure both valves on #1 are closed.

Then check your distributor rotor is pointed at #1 wire.
Go around the cap 18436572.

Happens a lot.

Other things;
Improperly set rocker arm/lifter preload?

You made sure the timing marks on the timing set were lined up?
And yes the timing Mark's on the crank and cam gear were lined up
 
It's worth a shot to re-check.

You know, old International pickups with the 304/345/392 V8 engines would time off of number 8 at TDC.
It was even stamped into the valve cover.
I had a friend that did a tune up and miswired his Cornbinders 345.
Resulted in timing being way off.
Backfired.
Would not start.
He thought I was a wizard when I fixed it in 5 minutes.
"You must have tickled it in the right spot."
No Brian, i read the valve cover.
 
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Are you sure the spark plug wiring is correct?

That TDC is the same for the crank and valves of #1?

I'd put it at TDC.
Remove the valve cover and make sure both valves on #1 are closed.

Then check your distributor rotor is pointed at #1 wire.
Go around the cap 18436572.

Happens a lot.

Other things;
Improperly set rocker arm/lifter preload?

You made sure the timing marks on the timing set were lined up?
And also I was reading that the distributor could be 180 how do you tell that
 
And also I was reading that the distributor could be 180 how do you tell that

In a 4 stroke engine there are 2 TDC Top Dead Center positions during the cycle.
TDC on the ignition stroke is when we want the distributor to fire on #1.
If you are "180 out" as people say, you have the #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke but the distributor is trying to fire.
Will not run.




Remove all 8 spark plugs (makes turning engine easier)
Remove the driver side valve cover.
Observe the rocker arms of number 1 cyl.
Rotate engine in direction it runs (look at fan pitch for clue).
Turn until timing mark on balancer lines up with TDC mark on timing cover.
Check the rocker arms for #1 cyl.
If they are not depressed, they are on the base circle of the cam, and this is TDC #1 cyl on the firing stroke.
If one of the rocker arms is down, you are at TDC#1 on the exhaust stroke. ("180 out")
Keep turning until you are sure you have both valves closed and piston on #1 at TDC.
Line up the timing mark carfully.

NOW you can determine which wire is #1 on the cap because the rotor is pointing right at it.
Turn the distributor till it points right at a contact if it isnt already.
Carefully look under the rotor and see if all 8 points of the hall effect pickup line up together.
That is when the HEI will fire.
That is your #1 wire regardless of where the vacuum can is.
You can pull the distributor and restab it to put the vacuum pod in a different direction if you want.
As long as you dont turn the motor, where ever you move that distributor housing to point a rotor at a contact makes that contact #1 wire.
Then wire each contact on the cap after that in the firing order.
Once #1 wire is on, and you have those peaks in the hall effect pickup under the rotor lined up, tighten the distributor down.
Now you can turn the engine over in the direction of operation (look at the fan) and the next contact the rotor meets will be #8 wire, the next #4 wire.. 36572.

(You don't have to keep turning the engine over to wire the cap. I always teach people to do it that way for #1 and #8 just so there can be no mistake on which way the distributor turns)

Now this will only get you in the ballpark.
You need a timing light to properly set timing.
But if you are careful about getting the distributor hall effect peaks lined up, as i stated above, when you set #1, your timing will be close enough to run.
But have your light ready to go.
Once it starts, you will want to refine timing.
It will be off a little.

Oh yeah, don't forget that all the odd cylinders 1357 are on the drivers side.
Even cylinders 2468 on the pass. side.


I have been editing the crap out of this.
It is one of those things that is far easier to show in person than explain in words.
I hope it makes sense.
 
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That's what it sounds like......180 out of phase. Common issue. Not hard to correct.

A distributor can also be 30* out of phase, 60*, 90*, 120*, etc, etc. It does not have be always 180* like every response about distributors installed incorrectly installed I see. It is not you that I am pointing out, I am just pointing out every post on incorrectly installed distributors parrots the same 180* montra.

It is best not to spend a bunch of time cranking the engine over, and over, and over again without it starting. Because if this is a solid lifter cam, you will flatten it. Solid lifter camed engines need to start correctly the first few seconds of cranking it over, and run up to 2000 RPM instantly, in order to break in the cam correctly.

This is a video of a first start up of a new engine of mine with a solid lifter cam. This was taken after approximately 20-minutes of running it at 2000 RPM, in order to break in the cam. When I turned over the engine with my remote starter switch, it started immediately. Then I grabbed the throttle with my hand, and held it open to 2000 RPM for 20-minutes.

 
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A distributor can also be 30* out of phase, 60*, 90*, 120*, etc, etc. It does not have be always 180* like every response about distributors installed incorrectly installed I see. It is not you that I am pointing out, I am just pointing out every post on incorrectly installed distributors parrots the same 180* montra.

It is best not to spend a bunch of time cranking the engine over, and over, and over again without it starting. Because if this is a solid lifter cam, you will flatten it. Solid lifter camed engines need to start correctly the first few seconds of cranking it over, and run up to 2000 RPM instantly, in order to break in the cam correctly.

This is a video of my first start up of a new engine of mine with a solid lifter cam. This was taken after approximately 20-minutes of running it at 2000 RPM, in order to break in the cam. When I turned over the engine with my remote starter switch, it started immediately. Then, I grabbed the throttle with my hand, and held it open to 2000 RPM for 20-minutes.


Point well taken and I agree with you 100%.

But for me, anytime that I have taken out a distributor, put it back wrong (accidentally of course) and it tries to start and pops and sputters was because I put in 180 degrees out of phase. That's just my luck sometimes but it is corrected in a matter of minutes.
 
The oil pump drive shaft will only let the distributor drop in fully one of two ways,"right" or 180 off,the slot in the shaft indexes it...to get it off by "a tooth or more" you usually have to turn the oil pump drive by hand with a screwdriver to align it with the distributor drive gear again,or have someone crank the engine while you push down on the distributor till it lines up with the slot and drops in all the way down..

I have had a distributor be 180 off a few times..best way to correct it is first try pulling it back out and dropping it back in 180 degrees from where it was,if that doesn't get it to start then you'll have to crank it by hand or with a remote starter button till #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke (a thumb over the spark plug hole is the method I use,they sell a whistle to make it easier to tell when its on the compression stroke without having to yank off the valve cover..

My GTO drove me nuts after I replaced all the lifters in its 400 V8..
The Pontiac V8's use the same firing order as a Chevy--but the distributor spins in the opposite direction!..took me quite a while to figure out what I did wrong..:doah:
 
The oil pump drive shaft will only let the distributor drop in fully one of two ways,"right" or 180 off,the slot in the shaft indexes it...to get it off by "a tooth or more" you usually have to turn the oil pump drive by hand with a screwdriver to align it with the distributor drive gear again,or have someone crank the engine while you push down on the distributor till it lines up with the slot and drops in all the way down..

Another thing about dropping a distributor in is that it has to be dropped in at first with the rotor pointing at the #8 plug wire, and then as it drops into the teeth it rotates towards the #1 plug. then you have to give the engine a kick for a second with the starter, in order to have it drop in and seat all the way down into the oil pump shaft. After that you have to do the whole #1 TDC compression stroke thing all over again to verify that the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder.
 
Yes,the spiral cut gears have to be engaged a bit "off" so when the distributor slides in all the way,the rotor turns a bit,and ends up pointing right at the #1 terminal on the cap...

I align the oil pump drive slot with a long screwdriver ,being alone its tough to bump the starter when you have no remote start switch..
I like having it all the way down before cranking the engine to avoid any damage to the drive gears,or getting it a tooth off..

I have seen dots on distributor drive gear and the cam gear,its tough to see the one on the cam gear that drives the distributor with it installed in the engine..those marks are aligned at the factory..evidently it isn't critical if they aren't aligned perfectly later on,but it could start a new wear pattern on the gears possibly..

I got very confused when I did my first timing chain job on a SBC.

Some of my Motor's Manuals showed lining the sprockets up with the timing mark dots facing at each other,with the cam gear mark facing down at 6 o'clock,and the crank gear dot mark facing up at 12 o'clock position...that's how I arranged them..
I had turned the engine by hand until the timing marks aligned in this fashion before I took off the old gears and chain (the chain was just sloppy,it hadn't jumped time).

Then another book I read after I had the engine all buttoned up and running good,showed the marks being aligned with the cam gear dot at 12 o'clock, and the crank gear dot also facing up at 12 o'clock.
It explained when both dots face each other at the 6 and 12 o'clock position,the #6 cylinder is actually at TDC,not #1.

I assume it makes no real difference because when you turn the engine 360 degrees,the marks align the other way with the cam gear dot at 6 o'clock position and the crank gear dot facing directly at it at 12 o'clock anyways.:dunno:..

All I know is once I got the distributor in the right position,the engine ran great,so I must have done something right..
 
being alone its tough to bump the starter when you have no remote start switch.

I bought an "El cheapo" remote starter switch from Harbor Freight. With a 20% discount coupon it cost me less than $10. It works just fine. I put some wire loom over the wires to protect them from a hot exhaust manifold.
 
Oh,I have a remote starter switch now..
It was originally intended to be used as a door bell button..:D
Why buy one ,when I had that lying around ?..works fine!..
 
Pull the distributor out and have someone hold it. Now turn the truck around and drop the distributor back in. If it fires now, you know the dizzy was 180* out. :D

On a serious note, a remote starter solenoid under hood lets you bump the engine without need for a remote starter switch.
 
Pull the #1 plug and install a wine cork over the hole.
Bump the doorbell switch until the cork goes pop.

Remove the dizzy cap and see where the rotor tab is.
If it’s pointing towards the #1 cylinder you are not 180* out. If it points towards the firewall you are.
 
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