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np 205 clocking ring

X2 why cut it..

If the clocking ring is 1/4 thick it would make the engagement between the tcase and trans 1/4 in less engaged, it would have no affect on the out puts of the t case.
 
hmmm, the D & D one I just got is a 1/2" thick....



clock.jpg
 
that certainly increases the difficulty of making it my own lol
 
I could do a rough template for ya.... snail mail it to ya... you'd need to finalize perfect hole locations using your case and adapter, etc...

it's countersunks for the original 8 bolt up.. and the adapter bolts to 8 of 16 tapped holes, depending on which position ya want..

the 8 tapped holes would be the dickiest part... a drill press would be mandatory...


one thing i did notice... to clock it all the way up, 36 degrees, you can only use 7 of 8 adapter holes... one of the original, now countersunk bolts, are in the way.. you could make it work with some work to the adapter hole foot boss thingy...

18 degree, all 8 are perfect, glad thats the route i'm taking.....
 
I could do a rough template for ya.... snail mail it to ya... you'd need to finalize perfect hole locations using your case and adapter, etc...

it's countersunks for the original 8 bolt up.. and the adapter bolts to 8 of 16 tapped holes, depending on which position ya want..

the 8 tapped holes would be the dickiest part... a drill press would be mandatory...


one thing i did notice... to clock it all the way up, 36 degrees, you can only use 7 of 8 adapter holes... one of the original, now countersunk bolts, are in the way.. you could make it work with some work to the adapter hole foot boss thingy...

18 degree, all 8 are perfect, glad thats the route i'm taking.....

Thanks for the offer, I have a empty 205 case so that should work. I may have to ask you for a measurement or two if I get around to actually doing it. I think I actually can get the th400 adapter also, I'll see tomorrow.

The countersunk shouldn't be a problem, we just got a badass Alpha band saw and drill press on clearance at lowes.

Do you think I could get away with an aluminum adapter? I know some doublers use aluminum.

How far does it stick below the frame at 18*? I Don't mind an inch or two as my 4 link cross member sticks 1.5" already.
 
the one thing to remember is that a countersink to do that size hole is usually at least $30,40....


as to al, i'd say I'd want it at least 5/8 thick, if not 3/4... and i'd want it of better machining alum, like a 2024...


i can't say how far from the frame a stock x-member would put it, but i can say that with it at 18, the front output sides lowest point on the case is now the same height as the lowest point on the rear output side... so it's flat... the 36 degree is rediculous, the front and rear outputs are dead even, whereas the 18 the front output is a couple inches lower than the back...
 
I should be able to find a countersink big enough at my dad's friend's machine shop.

I was thinking about going a little thicker, 5/8" would probably be good. 3/4" seems like it wouldn't take away too much spline engagement. I wonder good I can cut the curves with a bandsaw.

I'll have to look for some 2024 in 5/8" in the remnants pile Monday
 
3/8" steel is a good thickness.

3/8" allows enough thread engagement for the bolts. Also allows enough thickness for the countersunk heads to go completely flush or just a hair more and not stick out the back side. The least amount of spline engagement loss while maintaining those two.
 
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