CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

NP205 Parts ID and Sourcing

So I should clean up the switch I have and hope it works?
Yep, or find another used one. They get broken off of cores really easy so they're hard to find.

Also, the flange you linked was 32 spline. Your transfer case has a 30 spline front output, I don't know of a source for those new either.
 
Yep, or find another used one. They get broken off of cores really easy so they're hard to find.

Also, the flange you linked was 32 spline. Your transfer case has a 30 spline front output, I don't know of a source for those new either.
Guess I'll use same output flange and just push the seal in an 1/8" to run it on a section that isn't worn down.

I'll just have driveshaft fabricator use the same type of CV Joint
 
Only for the 4l80e programming.
Your road speed would be from the t case.
Since high range is the same as trans output shaft the 4l80e could be used. Low range might confuse the computer.
Since im not fully sure about the VSS, I ordered a new sensor and pigtail. Figure I may need it so get it now. My output shaft was already modified for the VSS sensor including the proper output shaft and tone ring.
 
Guess I'll use same output flange and just push the seal in an 1/8" to run it on a section that isn't worn down.

I'll just have driveshaft fabricator use the same type of CV Joint
some guys double up the seal . there is room if i recall . and the few i have done i pack the cavity between the 2 seals with grease .
 
Jb Conversions


1350 Rear Output Flange - 32 spline, 2" spline bore
2" Pilot Diameter, 3" Bolt Centers​


Part #1966 -- $110.00



Applications​

  • NP231 SYE Kit #16-1200
  • NP241C SYE Kit #16-1204
  • Dana 300 Rear Output Shaft Upgrade kit
  • NP205 Front Output Shaft
  • NP205 Rear Output Shaft

Features​

 
Guess I'll use same output flange and just push the seal in an 1/8" to run it on a section that isn't worn down.

I'll just have driveshaft fabricator use the same type of CV Joint

Get the speedi sleeve they recommended, it gives you a new seal surface on that yoke.

Since im not fully sure about the VSS, I ordered a new sensor and pigtail. Figure I may need it so get it now. My output shaft was already modified for the VSS sensor including the proper output shaft and tone ring.


I know the answer for Holley but not Edelbrock TCU, so I just downloaded the instructions, still didn't find the answer. Then I downloaded the app.

The app had the answer, you can use it either way.

You could use the VSS in the trans and ignore the one in the Tcase output, that would make your speedo off by almost 2X (1.96x) in low range but the trans should still shift ok because it does not know you are in low range. This is the way all pre electronic trans were, they didn't know there was a Tcase behind them or what range it was in, they just shifted based on their own output speed. You may need to lower the shift points a little in low range but that would still work in high range just fine. I had to do that when I was tuning my shift points with the governor weights in my TH400. A factory 4WD ECU this may not work because it knows you put it in 4WD, and it tries to compensate. Also, I don't know if the output teeth count is the same and there is no easy way to change that in the factory ECU that I am aware of, perhaps EFI Live or HP Tuners has a way. But factory it just easier to leave it the way it came from the factory.

However, I think the better solution with your parts is, the Edelbrock TC harness has a 4WD input wire. You hook your 4WD switch to that. Then you hook the VSS to the Tcase output. When you rebuild your Tcase, count the teeth on the VSS target wheel, you can input this number into the TCU. You can also input the Tcase ratio into the ECU, the TCU also has a speedo out signal if you want to run an autometer electric speedometer and it will always be correct even in low range. This is the method I would take with the parts you have.

No need for a GPS speedo and having it not work under trees or in tunnels, or having the antenna mounted, etc. The electronic speedos are work great and are easily programmable. I've had one in my truck for over 15 years, works flawlessly. You could also run a digital dash if you want the modern look and function, the individual gauges look more traditional.
 
Last edited:
I have an Edelbrock controller that should mate nicely with the Edelbrock Pro-Flo system
That's what I have in the C10. I like the controller, and it does everything I need it to. Install is super simple with the PF4.

If someone has a doubler or magnum, I would recommend the US Shift Quick 4. It can be programmed for all of the transfer case gears and has a lot of other nice programming features.
 
Went with a 32 spline front output shaft with a new flange. Just got them installed last night.

Also went with a 1410 rear output yoke. Gonna get this 100% done by Friday then I'll move to next project. Probably get the front and rear axle hubs installed

20230516_165930.jpg

20230516_165933.jpg

20230516_165934.jpg

20230516_180018.jpg

20230512_203413.jpg
 
Got a part number on that yoke? I’d like to look at the dimension details.
 
Got a part number on that yoke? I’d like to look at the dimension details.
Believe it or not I found it on Amazon for an amazing price. It was significantly less expensive than ORD. the only issue with the part was the teeny tiny hole where the small/short round rod is inserted to lock the giant washer was too small. I had to use a tiny carbide bit on my Dremel to enlarge it. Other than that it fit perfect.


Screenshot_20230517_085140_Gallery.jpg
 
Believe it or not I found it on Amazon for an amazing price. It was significantly less expensive than ORD. the only issue with the part was the teeny tiny hole where the small/short round rod is inserted to lock the giant washer was too small. I had to use a tiny carbide bit on my Dremel to enlarge it. Other than that it fit perfect.


View attachment 447030
That’s a good price on the front output.
But what about that 1410 yoke?
 
That’s a good price on the front output.
But what about that 1410 yoke?
The 1410 yolk was $88 through Denny's Driveshaft


The front axle Flange was $100 through Tom Woods


Not bad pricing. The 1410 Yolk is from Yukon and I've seen it priced at $160
 
are you clocking the t case any ??
Not at the moment. The clearances were fine when I tore it down. The transfer case is the same dimensions from when i removed it (Maybe 1" longer due to the 1410 rear yoke). The 4L80 is longer than the 700R4 I had but I am figuring the extra length will be fine since it will lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear driveshaft

Thoughts??
 
I am trying to figure how I am going to get clearance and was wonder about how you were doing it.
my 700r4 with stock th350 figure 8 t case adapter, has a deep trans pan I am going to go back to stock height pan.

IMG_20230405_143656.jpg
 
WOW... That is a problem. I have the circle adapter. My 205 has a definite hang down on the passenger side. I have a mid 80's style cross bar that allows for the drop. I have a different oil pan than my original. I hope it doesn't give me issues.

You could clock yours... Worth a try. Would love to see your solution.
 
Top Bottom