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np205 rear nut removal help!!!

1982diesel

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Jul 31, 2011
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Hello everyone! my name is drew and this will be my first post here. I have been a member for little over a year but have never needed to post up until now. I have found all the info i needed from cruising the search and just staying active and reading a bunch of threads. Ok so here we go- a little back story---

Bought a '82 k5 diesel with a newer goodwrench 6.2 in it, stock- height, stock th400/208 combo, lame 3.08 gears. Over the past year i have been collecting parts... 465/205, dana 60 dually/dana 70HD, 4.56 gears, H1's with 39.5 swampers, and a few more odds and ends I have been gathering.

Here is where i need help- i was in the process of twin sticking the 205 when i got the two rails all boogered up trying to get them out (partially in and partially out) - im certain the interlock rod is stopping them. so after trying all i could without pulling the case apart i decided to take it apart.
front output was easy- 1 1/8 socket took the front nut off-
i read all the post about having to grind down a cheapy socket or buy a snap-on one to take the rear yoke off. (1 5/16)

Snap-on was just over $50- cheapy was $7- grinding it was.
spent the time ground it down and now the rear nut is on there so TIGHT that i can not remove it! Well over a 100lb of pressure- when i put any real strength to it my socket slips off the nut and is starting to round the edges a bit. Im using a 25" breaker bar and a pipe wrench- ive also tried my electric impact with no luck... I have been soaking it in penetrating oil for two days now but want more insight before i really screw things up.

how would you guys get the nut off? if i can not get the nut off what would be my next option? i can remove the bolts from the rear section and still pull the gear stack out to get in there correct? but im still left with a yoke stuck on...

sorry for the long post and noob question but ive looked and i couldn't find anything dealing with my situation. i really want to get this twin sticking down so i can do the tranny swap

thanks again,
drew
 
Heat is your friend. Cook the nut with a mapp gas torch, probably has locktight on it. It would be better with a true blue oxy/acetelyn torch because you can concentrate the flame on the nut better rather than the output shaft but the mapp gas torch would take a decade to hurt the shaft anyway and its really more about breaking the lock tight up.
 
You've got the socket, load it up and take to someone that has air tools. A good impact should knock it right off.
 
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