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NP205 rebuild from a 78' K30 w/Th 350

Thanks sweetk30, 78' K30 is what I was told from the PO. It's actually going in my 69' K5, so if a moderator can move the thread to 69' - 72' that would be appreciated.
 
Nice link, as funds permit and tools/knowledge increase, I'd like to put the 203 sitting into garage to use in a doubler. For now thow, a twin stick 205 is the ticket.

I've already hit a bit of a speed bump. Step 13 has an input shaft retainer that I don't think applies to my build. Would it be correct to say that my 205 is the spoken of figure 8 pattern and the one in the instructions is round pattern?

Also, was my Th350 to Np205 adapter performing the task of the displayed input shaft retainer?

I unfortunately don't have the adapter available to check, but I believe hats the case as seen in my first post's pic.
 
As far as a 10 spline upgrade goes maybe for my 78', but on this build it's going on the "all #s matching" 69' which I'll treat quite a bit nicer.
 
Another curveball

I found 5 needle bearings just hangin' out in the outer rear drive output seal (maybe they belong behind the Rear bearing retainer?). No idea why PO would put them there, I was actually told only two seals were bad and replaced. "Just top it off with fluid and you're ready to go".... I'm glad I'm doing the rebuild now...

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that link to the reman job is a round 6 and a ford case so stuff will be right/left swapped.

finding bearings in the seal = full tear down and check over for sure .
 
Yep, I found 7 more needle bearings at the bottom of the case. I'm stuck at the final step which is removing the idler shaft. I can't find my penetrating lube and elbow grease alone isn't budging the 1 5/16" nut. SnapOn man is off for the day, maybe Autozone has a 1/2" impact socket in this size... I hate buying foreign tools though...

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No luck with with finding a socket, but luckily the good ol' Craftsman wrench along with the biggest cheater bar I could reach while straddling the t-case to hold it in place saved the day. Time for a pressure wash and the some paint

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those needle bearings I will beet will be from the bearing in the tail housing someone had off and didn't care how it went back together.

man your lucky on the big nut . my impact knows when its on one.

and keep track of the shims in the idler gear setup . :whistle: might have to remove a few to tighten it up for little to no play .
 
Thanks for the heads up on the shims. There were 4 on the idler shaft, hopefully they fit the same way going back together.

Any idea what's up with all these seals? I'm wanting to assume that my Chevy NP205 only needs the 3 red-orange seals and that the 2 green ones and 2 gold ones are for Ford or Dodge variations?

Also, does anyone know what the little rubber gears and I-ring are for? I didn't come across any of these parts during disassembly...

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seal/gasket kits come with lots of different seals used over the years .

o-ring is for the th350 input gear coupler seal on the 205 input if I recall.

washers with teeth are to seal up the yoke on the shaft before the washer / retaining nut are used .

should be a 32 spline / 30 spline / 1 extra of 32 or 30 if I recall .
 
Thanks for the clarification on the seals.

The needle bearings that came out of the retainer plate packed back in nicely, but it looks like there's another race in the rear output (the tail housing previously mentioned?), and I only have 1/2 the bearings needed to fill it if indeed it is a bearing race.

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skim threw my link I posted before in the 205 part of it . all your answers for bearings and placement should be answered .

or your link step 73 starts the reman cleanup of the rear housing . and 82 is the 15 needle bearings in the output tail center .

the tail has 1 needle bearing setup at the end were it fits the main case . the end were the yoke goes is roller bearing .

and to get needle bearings back there from a front output would be darn near impossible.
 
Okay, your thread on page 3, posts 22 and 24 clearly answered my questions regarding where to put the bearings I have (post 24) and the whole new race/bearing assembly that I need to purchase and replace (post 22). :doah:

Sorry for not reading further into your thread the first time... Very useful info.

I'm pretty sure that the other two shaft mounted bearing that you showed on both pages 2 and 3 of your thread are still in place as my gear assemblies spin free and smooth on their respective shafts and all the proper components look in place so I'll leave that alone for now and focus on acquiring and installing what I know I need.

Thanks again sweetk30!
 
Interesting thing I just stumbled on; the shims split from two to four on the front side of the idler gears and from 4 to 7 on the back side. From what I take the shims only serve the purpose of bearing tension and don't actually align anything, so as long as it goes together tight, but not too tight I'll should be alright even the the tutorial says just two shims on either side?
 
basicly just controls end play in bearing pack . I have done a few with all shims on 1 end and no problems. 1 truck is turning 44" tires and spool in rear with 4 speed so it gets beat on hard.
 
Cool, that's what I figured. Unfortunately I just destroyed all but 1 shim trying to reinstall. That brings this project to a close until I can hopefully find the parts tomorrow.

Stacking all the shims on the nearest end is an excellent idea!!! Those little bastards shift around way too much during assembly (especially the set on the far side of the spacer), even when tacked down with petroleum jelly. I'm so STFO, at least I have another learning experience of what NOT to do. :doah: :doah: :doah:
 
ya they suck a bit .

good luck finding them . about only way I have seen them is spare parts case .

I even chatted with the guys at off road design and they had about the same answer to finding them .

I even went threw my extra shims from ring and pinion install jobs and nothing right . to big or to small.

if you cant find some let me know I have parted out a few cases .
 
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