Well I was able to hammer flat 4 of shims and reassemble being super careful. While searching online for shims I came across a np205 idler assembly tool which I was kinda able to mimic with a deep 1" SAE socket. You assemble the shims and everything with the socket in the core and the as you slide the idler shaft in the tool/socket slides out. 1" was a bit loose, but worked. A 1 1/16" socket would probably be perfect if I had one.
I don't have a socket big enough yet to get a torque reading on the idle shaft either, but I was able to use my hand wrench to tighten the shaft until there was no play. The first time I tightened it I torqued it down enough to where the gears barely spun. Then I backed the nut off a little to a point where I have no play, but the gears spin freely. My fear is that I don't think I'm torquing the nut down enough to be in the 90-120lb spec. Is this indicative that I need more shims, or maybe tightening nut down is just a heck of a lot easier than removing it?
Also, I can't remember if the shaft is supposed to be so recessed in.

I don't have a socket big enough yet to get a torque reading on the idle shaft either, but I was able to use my hand wrench to tighten the shaft until there was no play. The first time I tightened it I torqued it down enough to where the gears barely spun. Then I backed the nut off a little to a point where I have no play, but the gears spin freely. My fear is that I don't think I'm torquing the nut down enough to be in the 90-120lb spec. Is this indicative that I need more shims, or maybe tightening nut down is just a heck of a lot easier than removing it?
Also, I can't remember if the shaft is supposed to be so recessed in.
What's worse is the guy at the parts store showed me the larger needle bearings and asked if I needed them... Shoulda' got them as spares... Oh well, I'll have to wait until I get back into town on Monday now 