NP205 woes

[cybrfire]

OK, here's the backstory, This is a Dodge Divorced tcase.

Ground the rails for independent front and rear control. Seems to shift into and out of each position properly. As in the detents engage.

Swapped out all the yokes for the appropriately sized yokes.

Here's the situation,

Accelerate and abruptly get off the throttle and there is a significant growl or gear noise coming from the tcase.

Do the yokes set end play in the 205? I didn't think they did but now I'm doubting.

Any other suggestions? I've ground rails for 4 different 205's now. I've missed the mark one time and you could easily tell it wasn't working properly before the reassembly. Not entirely sure what happens if ground too far though....

Lube is beyond full so nothings running dry.

 

[mo]

does it still do it when front and rear shafts are engaged?

Mine makes quite a racket when the front shaft is not engaged. Not as bad when it is, but still makes a lot of noise when i let off the throttle as well.

I'd love to quiet that down if possible.

 

[cybrfire]

does it still do it when front and rear shafts are engaged?

Mine makes quite a racket when the front shaft is not engaged. Not as bad when it is, but still makes a lot of noise when i let off the throttle as well.

I'd love to quiet that down if possible.

I have not as of yet had the opportunity to engage the front shaft. I had thought about doing that tonight but had to get to the polls for a referendum vote.

I'll try it tommorrow night and see what happens.

 

[Mudstud]

In your other twin sticked 205s did they do the same thing? I have a simular situation going on in mine.
Years ago I ground the one rail (before anyone knew you were supposed to grind both). I had driven it a good bit and thought I had exploded it once (turned out to be the rear end) but I did take it apart to inspect and all looked fine. No obvious wear spots and no metal in the oil. I don't worry about it anymore.

 

[cybrfire]

In your other twin sticked 205s did they do the same thing? I have a simular situation going on in mine.
Years ago I ground the one rail (before anyone knew you were supposed to grind both). I had driven it a good bit and thought I had exploded it once (turned out to be the rear end) but I did take it apart to inspect and all looked fine. No obvious wear spots and no metal in the oil. I don't worry about it anymore.

Nah, none of the other twin stick jobs did it. One of them was not ground far enough. Had a totally different symptom.

 

[miniwally]

I say drive shaft angles are a bit off and they are causing the gears to clatter.

I have seen this a few times. My old F 250 would start doint this same thing about 100 miles before it spit the rear drive shaft out. I figured things out the third time I heard the noise and just replaced u-joints and the noise would go away.

I think in my case the angles were close to fine and there were no vibes but as soon as a u-joint started to get a little loose it would create enough slack to make the gear clatter.

 

[Mudstud]

I've had this 205 in my truck running a 12 bolt and accompanying d-shaft and this 14 bolt and different shaft with welded perches angled 2* off just like they say to do and both set ups acted the same way.

 

[cybrfire]

Well, no luck with testing it out in 4wd. Still gear noise. Maybe a little more apparent.

More digging will be inorder. I suppose I'll have to drop the tcase this weekend.

D shaft angles are spot on in this setup. Driveshafts and u joints are all new. Perches were welded on just a few weeks ago and nothing has changed since then.

 

[sweetk30]

seen lots of slopy 205 make noise on the loaded wind down.

what oil you runnin? gear oil seem to make it quiter.

you got pics of the mount setup you used to hang it?

 

[cybrfire]

seen lots of slopy 205 make noise on the loaded wind down.

what oil you runnin? gear oil seem to make it quiter.

you got pics of the mount setup you used to hang it?

Running gear oil in it. 85/140 I believe.

I don't think I have any pics of it. I'll have to rectify that tomorrow. Basically its a three piece crossmember that straddles the t case. Up and over the top sort of making a bridge.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Yokes do kinda set endplay in a 205. In order to have it affected though you would end up having to have installed a yoke that was too short and the washer/nut tightening against the shoulder of the output shaft rather than pulling the yoke tight to set the end play.

 

[cybrfire]

Yokes do kinda set endplay in a 205. In order to have it affected though you would end up having to have installed a yoke that was too short and the washer/nut tightening against the shoulder of the output shaft rather than pulling the yoke tight to set the end play.

Sometime this weekend i'll be yanking some drive shafts and investigating this further. Might as well. It's the first step to removing a bad tcase anyway. Thanks for the tip though. Should be able to feel some movement on the yoke i would think.

 

[Mudstud]

I'm not sold on the idea that the yokes set end play. I used to until I swapped out my free 1350 yoke that was shortened- on a chopsaw- at an angle and replaced it with an uncut one about 1/4" longer. I saw-felt-heard no difference after the swap.- And remember, I had the case apart at one point to inspect the internals- NO wear and tear was visible.

 

[JDNobodi]

I'm not sold on the idea that the yokes set end play. I used to until I swapped out my free 1350 yoke that was shortened- on a chopsaw- at an angle and replaced it with an uncut one about 1/4" longer. I saw-felt-heard no difference after the swap.- And remember, I had the case apart at one point to inspect the internals- NO wear and tear was visible.

Then your cut down yoke must have been long enough to prevent the output shaft threads from bottoming out.

 

[cybrfire]

I think I've eliminated anything to do with the shifting mechanisms. I can Drive it in any selected range outside of front wheel drive and it always sounds and behaves the same.

I have discovered some vertical play in the output shaft.