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NP208 Bolt Question

metalneverdies

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I keep shearing off the support rod bolt on the belhousing. I am absolutely using grade 8 bolts. OEM trans cross member. Any ideas on how to stop this? I don't have huge tires, haven't wheeled it very hard.
 
It was in good to OK shape. Used CV drive shaft but has fresh joints and CV joint. What type of grease is recommended? I know ATF leaks out all over at my output seal. One of those things I keep putting off until I swap my trans.
 
Ever since my lift I have had a vibration that I cant get rid of. Rebuilt my drive shaft, submitted my drive shaft angles to the board here and called DIY4x and have been to a local drive shaft shop. All say it looks good. Not sure why I have the vibration. It doesn't feel violent enough to cause broken bolts...

If there is a passenger in the rear seat the vibration mostly goes away. I think it may be more of an annoying resonance type of vibration since I pulled out the stock padding and buytal stuff under the carpet at the same time as the lift.
 
If the passenger weighs the truck down any, WOW, than your pinion angle should be looked at.

Or it's you bench seat that's loose :D

And I would agree, might be your slip. It should move freely.
 
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If the passenger weighs the truck down any, WOW, than your pinion angle should be looked at.

Or it's you bench seat that's loose :D

And I would agree, might be your slip. I should move freely.
I checked it like a dozen times, I am pretty confident its good. Guess I will grease up the drive shaft. What type of grease should I use? Don't want to contaminate the transfer case fluid.
 
I would start by pulling the driveshaft off the axle and pulling the slip apart. See if the splines look good and check that it moves freely. I tend to just lube with wheel bearing grease but that will need more maintenance. Something even thicker would be best. I put this stuff in my U-joints since I don't run needle bearings. You wouldn't need much, stuff is awesome.

4313798-24.jpg
 
weird thing but how is the motor mounts ? ?

I have seen them bad give a LOT of unwanted flex in the system . DO NOT buy o.e.m aftermarket replacements there junk these days and don't last at all.

also check the trans/t-case mount . even if you have to block of wood/floor jack it to try and move it . the rubber could be unbonded and still look o.k.
 
weird thing but how is the motor mounts ? ?

I have seen them bad give a LOT of unwanted flex in the system . DO NOT buy o.e.m aftermarket replacements there junk these days and don't last at all.

also check the trans/t-case mount . even if you have to block of wood/floor jack it to try and move it . the rubber could be unbonded and still look o.k.

It has the clam shell style mounts. I know they are not the most recommended mount setup but I really didn't want to go with poly mounts. They were new mounts when I installed my ls swap stuff. Only a few thousand miles on the whole setup, the trans mount was new too. I will check them all out again when I grease the splines.
 
you can buy energy suspension inserts for the clamb shell . that's the best way to go other than full aftermarket like ord or diy4x makes.

one member here went threw 2 sets of oem style crapy replacments in a few months until he went poly .
 

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