If I recall, the seal is with a gasket on the drain plug. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?
CK5
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NP208 seeping at drain plug
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
I think they are included in the gasket kits you get for like $16. Have you tried pulling the plug, cleaning the gasket and both sealing surfaces? I have 3 of those things on my 208 and none are leaking. You could try an O-ring and you could also try some pipe dope on the threads.
Haven't tried that. The annoying thing is that anything I try will involve losing all the fluid, which is new. Except possibly getting a whole new plug so I can swap them quickly. I can get a plug on ebay for $10, but I'd want a new gasket.
A trick I've seen mechanics use on straight thread drain plugs with a fiber or copper gasket under the hex head,is to back the drain plug out a few threads,and wrap a strand or two of fine copper wire around it ,under the hex,or a strip of solder,and tighten it up...it'll smoosh the copper or solder flat and hopefully stop the drips...this way you lose no fluid..
I've seen guys put a shop vac over an engine's oil filler pipe,and remove and replace the drain plug gasket without losing much,if any oil,or if they wanted to take only a quart or so out ,if it were over filled,or the wanted room to add a quart of oil treatment that way also..
I've seen guys put a shop vac over an engine's oil filler pipe,and remove and replace the drain plug gasket without losing much,if any oil,or if they wanted to take only a quart or so out ,if it were over filled,or the wanted room to add a quart of oil treatment that way also..
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Just drain it into a clean container and put the fluid back in when done.
Somewhat difficult to do when talking over a gallon, but I save a couple gallon milk jugs, and cut a large opening in the side of one so I can capture/reuse the fluid. If more than about 3/4 gallon, you can do the same thing, except place the cut jug on a block of wood, cinderblock, whatever, and remove the cap. Cut another gallon jug the same as the first, but leave the cap on. Position the upper one so it acts as a receptacle AND pours excess out into the lower jug. Works good with the thicker fluids like gear oil that won't flow through a funnel for squat too.
Haven't come up with any other way to keep from having to clean containers out for use with different fluids, or having multiple containers sitting around that invariably end up with dust and junk in them As long as you don't overfill the bottom one, you can just pour it into whatever dispenser you will use, then toss the milk jugs out. Plus, the milk jugs work good to siphon radiator fluid into if you have to do some maintenance that requires it. Or dispose of. Not good for long term since they shatter pretty easily as they age.
If it weren't so exposed, a petcock or ball valve would sure make these things easier.
Not really exposed. It'll be up under the skid once I put that back on. To attach a valve though, I'd need to know the plug size and threads. Anyone know that?
I have one of these on my CUCV for the engine oil:
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/
It's a little less messy, but drains more slowly.
I've dumped the T-case fluid into a jug using a funnel and then ran it through a coffee filter before putting it back in. A transfer case isn't nearly as picky as an automatic transmission. If you had a rubber washer or O-ring, it could maybe be stretched over the hex head without pulling the plug all the way out. You could also try backing the plug out partway and wrapping teflon tape in there, then run it back in. Maybe the liquid teflon paste could be done the same way. IIRC, the oil barely drips until the plug is all the way out.
You could also ask around at local driveline shops. Somebody might have that seal in stock or good used plug/seal to sell you. Many shops have no interest in this kind of business, but I found one where I used to live that was a gold mine! They had a whole little building filled with used TH700/4L60 parts and would sell it all cheap - sprags, speedo gears, whole pumps, bearing shims, whatever. They'd shoot the breeze for 15 minutes while selling a couple bucks worth of parts.
You could also ask around at local driveline shops. Somebody might have that seal in stock or good used plug/seal to sell you. Many shops have no interest in this kind of business, but I found one where I used to live that was a gold mine! They had a whole little building filled with used TH700/4L60 parts and would sell it all cheap - sprags, speedo gears, whole pumps, bearing shims, whatever. They'd shoot the breeze for 15 minutes while selling a couple bucks worth of parts.
I did a quick search, not finding any specs for the 208 or 241, I expect they are the same, but would be nice to know either way.
I can find posts saying the head is 30MM for the 208. Looks like someone makes valves specific for oil in just about every MM size, listed down the page a bit http://www.oildrainvalve.net/categories/Valves/Order-by-engine/rv-motor-homes/
More than I'd pay for the frequency I'd use it, but if I can find the proper threads I'd be inclined to try a cheaper metal ball valve.
I intend to do the same thing on the radiator drain, so I can actually get the stuff into a bottle.
I'd be tempted to just take a stock drain plug and drill & tap it for a petcock like a radiator uses...(if there is room !)..
I don't know the thread size on a NP208,but I can tell you its large,probably over 1" and fine threads,most likely some mongrel metric one no doubt..
I don't know the thread size on a NP208,but I can tell you its large,probably over 1" and fine threads,most likely some mongrel metric one no doubt..
Clever idea. Are you sure they're the same?
