NP208 vs. 241 SYE conversion

[Mastiff]

It looks like the common thing is to switch to NP241 to get the JB Conversion SYE kit. These kits are $340, then you'll need a new driveshaft, which is about $200 from someplace like Tom Woods. Then you need to get a 241 in the first place, which will be $200-300 (I think). Total = about $750.

Tom Woods has 208 SYE kits (http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/208TransferCaseGMDesign-32Spline.html) for $570 that include the driveshaft. It seemed pricey at first, but not bad now that I'm adding it up. I know the 241 is supposed to be marginally more durable, but is there anything else I'm missing? Being able to do the job with the case still in the truck is also a bonus.

 

[Blue85]

I've argued the same point here before, but some guys are planning to build square shafts or something else.

I'm confused on how you would pull the mainshaft out while leaving the case in the vehicle? You have to send them the mainshaft, which is pretty much a full teardown. Are you talking about the bolt-on flange? http://driveshaftsuperstore.com/drive_shaft_SYE.htm

Unless you've rebuilt the 208 recently, I would rather pull it, check the bearings and put fresh shift fork pads in anyway.

 

[Mastiff]

You're probably right about the case having to come out. I thought I read that you could do it while installed, but I can't find it again. Going through the 31 year old case probably isn't a bad idea, as you say.

I asked Tom Woods for instructions and this was the response, consistent with what you are talking about:

"The 208 is one transfer case that we do not have instructions for. It is simply a partial disassembly of the transfer case and re-assembly with the modified parts (housing & main-shaft). If you would like to call, I would be happy to give you a verbal walk through. Alternatively, you may want to look at a service manual to see what it takes to change the main-shaft or even the chain as changing the chain would require the same point of disassembly."

 

[chevysmithz71]

Jb conversions has a pretty good break down of a 241, instructions to install their sye

 

[Kay86K5]

Jb conversions has a pretty good break down of a 241, instructions to install their sye

This. It walks you through step by step and has helpful pictures too. Makes the job a whole lot easier.

I purchased my 241 (with mechanical speedo so I could keep my speedo) for $80 on craigslist, FYI

 

[Mastiff]

I purchased my 241 (with mechanical speedo so I could keep my speedo) for $80 on craigslist, FYI

$80 + $340 + $200 = $620, more than the 208 kit from Tom Woods. Which brings me back to my original question. Though having instructions is a bonus.

 

[Kay86K5]

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but after looking at your original link from Tom Woods, eventhough you are replacing the main shaft, the flange still looks like it is held in by a retaining screw. Or am I looking at that wrong?

If that is correct, than I still say the JBC SYE is a better route to go because it is a true SYE instead of a flange only held in my a retaining screw.

 

[Mastiff]

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but after looking at your original link from Tom Woods, eventhough you are replacing the main shaft, the flange still looks like it is held in by a retaining screw. Or am I looking at that wrong?

If that is correct, than I still say the JBC SYE is a better route to go because it is a true SYE instead of a flange only held in my a retaining screw.

Good question. Hopefully someone else will know the answer. It does look fundamentally different than the JB conversion one.

And if I found a 241 for $80 I'd snatch it up for sure. Being able to take my time on the bench would be worth the extra money. I never seem to find the good deals people talk about though.

 

[Kay86K5]

Yeah, after looking at it more, I think it is still just a retaining screw design. It looks as thought the flange still just slips over the end of the new main shaft, than that little srew in the picture most likely fits into the new housing end piece to make sure the flange doesn't "slip" off the main shaft. Still not a bad thing if you are going for cheap, but the JBC kit has it all and is very strong.

Just keep your eyes out. I got pretty lucky with mine cause the guy didn't know what he had and just wanted it gone, that's why I got it for so cheap. Especially down in AZ, there are alot of guys selling old chevy stuff (that's what my bro told me when he was living down there). Heck, you might even find a 241 with an SYE on it already. I see them every so often.

 

[Blue85]

It's true that Tom Woods doesn't machine large threads on the output shaft like you would find for a normal bolt-on yoke. Maybe there are some real-world testimonials out there about how it's been holding up. It may not be possible to swap to a different yoke later - and I don't how many options Tom Woods gives you there. It might force you to custom parts on a driveshaft later if you change things up. This is probably why they include a driveshaft as part of the package - it's not a universal solution.

You could always do the Dodge/Chevy hybrid like I did - I did this 9 years ago and have had 0 problems. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100934. There are 2 ways to do it:
-Get some TIG work done on the Dodge back case to hold the Chevy shift rails.
-Drill new holes for the Dodge "cone", which is arguably weaker, but whether or not it's a problem is unknown: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246154

This gives the same 32-spline output for the front and rear. I run the same flange front and rear on mine (Dodge donor case came with front flange, so it was free) and had the rear driveshaft built to match. Honestly about $150 into the conversion, + the cost of a rebuild kit, not including the rear driveshaft.