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NV4500 Rebuild Questions

Plus a fixed yoke is much shorter, so you end up with a longer drive shaft, and less of an angle between your transfer case and axle.

Martin

I'm at stock height and not likely to go up much (if any). Drive-line angle isn't critical here. But I'll keep that in mind. :)
 
I have known guys to drive home on the front axle only after breaking stuff while wheeling in the mountains out here. By the time they got home 2 hours away, the front gears were worn out. Unfortunately, low pinion axles used in our trucks drive on the coast side of the gear while driving forward and cannot take long term use. It is OK for short distances, but not advised for long distance.

This is something that I have not realized. Why is this? Is the pumpkin the same orientation as a rear axle (and that's why it's reversed)? Am I correct in surmising that a high-pinion axle would be driving on the other side of the gear (eliminating this problem)?

I am intrigued. :thinking:
 
I'm at stock height and not likely to go up much (if any). Drive-line angle isn't critical here. But I'll keep that in mind. :)

I know it isn't of much use for you, I was just mentioning that is one of the main reasons other people do it.

Martin
 
Why is this? Is the pumpkin the same orientation as a rear axle (and that's why it's reversed)? Am I correct in surmising that a high-pinion axle would be driving on the other side of the gear (eliminating this problem)?

Because the gears used in the front and rear axles are identical to save money and they are designed for greatest efficiency in the direction of "forward" motion. Since a rear axle rotated 180* would run backwards if ran in the "forward" direction, the gears have to be run in "reverse". This is called the coast side of the gearset.

There is a decent diagram on this pdf:
https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf

Yes, a high pinion fixes the issue.
 
not sure if it was mentioned or not, but the slip seal is way way more likely to fail/leak due to it's movement over the seal surface too...
 
over the yr's I've seen dozen's of vehicles with bad seals on slips.. can't remember ever seeing a fixed one fail...
 
T-case Headaches

Well, the problems have continued. I went out and bought this NP241 to go with this tranny, assuming that I could swap in the 32-spline input shaft from my existing transfer case.

This all went well until I brought the new case home and finally discovered why my driver-side T-case seemed so massive. It's not an NP241. It's a BW 4470. I then realized that I had never actually looked at the tag to see what I owned. :doah:

So now I have a 27-spline NP208, a 27-spline NP241 (electric), and a 32-spline 4470.

So I'm still a few fries short of having a functional drive train.

Sigh. :doah:

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Hopefully you didn't pay that much. I see 241's around here going for $100, maybe you can make a few bucks on your accident? :)

(Of course, you never actually make a few bucks, you just finance the next expenditure with that money)
 
Alright. Thanks to some prompting from friends and family, I am getting ready to pull this stuff out of the shed sometime this fall.

What maintenance / rebuild work should I consider for the tranny? This is going to go into my Blazer, which already has a 32-spline NP208, so I don't have to deal with the NP241 issue at this point. The tranny came out of a running K30 dually, but I don't know how well it ran, and I have never heard it in operation. I don't see or hear anything abnormal as I turn it by hand and shift it through its pattern.

What should I consider replacing? Should I just throw it in there and hope it works, tear it down for a rebuild, or just open the case for inspection?
 
TTT.

Still looking for input as to what I should look for when I start inspecting this case. Are there common failure points to address? :dunno:


:popcorn:
 
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