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O2 sensor threads gerffed up *fixed* new lazy question

eodcoduto

eodcoduto

We could have been closer.
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I'm working on the Suburban, '91 V2500, as I daily drive it and attacking problems one at a time. This week it is the O2 sensor, the cat had been removed, and I wanted to add a 3 wire heated sensor. So I used my GM weather pack kit and made a very nice harness then pulled the old one out. It fought me the whole way and when I got it out, the threads were wiped out on the sensor, and the new one will not start now. It has 182K on the odometer, which doesn't work, so I doubt its the original one. The thread should be a 18-1.5 metric, so I will pick up a tap tomorrow and try to save it. Anyone have this happen to them, I really hope I can chase this and not have to pull the Y-pipe.
 
Old school spark plug 2 ended thread chaser the big end is 18mm you need .

I have had to tap a few with a real tap. They are not as common so be prepared to look for the tap .

1675047529603.png
 
Yeah straightened up a bunch with a tap and a bunch I welded a new bing on. Any exhaust muffle shop will weld it on ….. very easy to do! Message me back if you need more help!
 
Got it cleaned up and the new sensor in, that was well worth the $8 instead of buying a metric Greenfield tap.
 
Alright first off, this question is out of sheer laziness. Where are you guys taping into for power on a 3 wire 02 sensor? Its 37 degrees outside and raining, and I really don't feel like chasing wires tonight.
 
All sorts of spare taps across the top of the fuse panel. Some will be switched ignition.

I cannot recall exactly how those are protected. I *want* to say they are on 30A breakers.

With enough additional electric devices, an auxiliary fuse panel is really the right answer, so each accessory/item has its own circuit, and are fused properly.
 
An O2 sensor can draw 5-10A, so if you piggyback it onto another circuit, you may have to bump the fuse up. To do that, you need to confirm the wire is large enough to support that. I get that you're trying to be lazy and tap something underhood, but the right way would be to put an unused slot in the fuse panel into service. Or find something that your truck doesn't have, like a choke heater, which has a "free" circuit underhood. I can't recommend inline fuse holders, as most of what you find now is garbage and the installs tend to be messy.
 
I tapped into an usused circuit on the fuse panel, its working for now but I need to find some factory style ends like the ignition wire uses. Weatherpack everywhere else.
 
dyeager535 said:
All sorts of spare taps across the top of the fuse panel. Some will be switched ignition.

I cannot recall exactly how those are protected. I *want* to say they are on 30A breakers.

With enough additional electric devices, an auxiliary fuse panel is really the right answer, so each accessory/item has its own circuit, and are fused properly.
Click to expand...
That is how I wired my 4-wire O2. I bought one of those 30A fuse panel taps, in order to create a hot for my TBI truck. I think you and Wes talked me into a 4-wire instead of a 3-wire because a 4-wire has a ground for both the heater element and the ECM lead.
 
I still run a three wire. I've not had any issues, but I can't see how more grounds isnt better lol.
 
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