Oddball 10 bolt spindle nut?

[wasted wages]

top left slot looks like it might have a key in it....hard to tell...( your picture )

does the spindle have a slot cut in it ?

 

[campfire]

Recessed all the way through one of those slots?

Yes. Check out this description from steelsoldiers:

Ours had that one, the center part of the nut is round on the outside, then there are 6 "roll pins" that are held on by and outerband. There is a snap ring that is holding in a little key, remove the snapring. You thread a 4-40 machine screw into the end of the key, pull that key out and you are golden. When putting everything back togather, that outer ring acts like a self torquing nut. Ours wouldn't go all the way to the torque spec'ed in the manual, but is very very close. I checked that wheel for any bearing slop a couple days after reassembly and everything was still tight. Do yourself a favor, while you have it that torn apart, pull your axle shaft and replace the u-joint.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?47188-M1009-front-spindle-bearing-nuts

Come to think of it, I do remember the 4-40 bolt trick. It sounds like it won't work, but it did. The magnet trick might have been when putting it back together.

Sorry I didn't remember all this earlier. It does sound like standard nuts will fit fine, if you'd rather switch.

But leaving the key in there definitely could explain why it broke the socket.

 

[red EOD]

Yes. Check out this description from steelsoldiers:



https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?47188-M1009-front-spindle-bearing-nuts

Come to think of it, I do remember the 4-40 bolt trick. It sounds like it won't work, but it did. The magnet trick might have been when putting it back together.

Sorry I didn't remember all this earlier. It does sound like standard nuts will fit fine, if you'd rather switch.

But leaving the key in there definitely could explain why it broke the socket.

Always some oddball thing about military stuff haha. Yea I'll be swapping to the standard setup soon as the new socket arrives and these specialized nuts go onto the scrap metal pile.

 

[diesel4me]

Wow...just what you'd need to deal with in a war zone !....
"Special" socket needed....4-40 bolt no one has in a war scenario..worse to take apart and assemble than the "bad enough" normal spindle nuts..
..It's like they want you to be stranded and killed !..

 

[campfire]

Wow...just what you'd need to deal with in a war zone !....
"Special" socket needed....4-40 bolt no one has in a war scenario..worse to take apart and assemble than the "bad enough" normal spindle nuts..
..It's like they want you to be stranded and killed !..

Counterarguments - The 6-lug socket is no more special than the 4-lug socket. As I said before, the closed slots meant I was able to remove mine without using the special socket. Not easy to do that with the standard nut. I'm not a fan of the tiny pin used on the normal lock washer. Too easy to screw that up (as plenty of CK5 guys have found out). The plug is much more durable, harder to screw up, and comes out with a magnet if you don't have the bolt. And it provides a positive locking force to both nuts, rather than trusting just the torque spec on the outer nut (eliminating that stupid argument over torque specs!).

Switching back to standard nuts after 1984 seems stupid, as then they needed to support both designs.


I'm mostly just stirring the pot. But it seems like a more forgiving design overall. Easier to service in the field since you don't need the special socket. A punch, screwdriver, or pair of needle nose pliers gives you a fighting chance rather than leaving you dead in the water.

 

[wasted wages]

I switched over to the stage 8 on my D60 and never looked back... I agree the tiny pin lock setup with the lock ring is not the best...
but it works.

 

[red EOD]

The 2 spindle nuts with a lock washer between them has worked well for the better part of a century on all size vehicles. Reminds me of German over-engineering.

 

[diesel4me]

The "regular" style spindle nuts and pin washers were bad enough IMO--certainly something better could have been invented that are easier to deal with and didn't need a special socket..just another tool to buy you didn't really have too ,a regular hex nut & socket would work just as good..

I'd think drive slugs rather than hubs would be preferable in a military vehicle..(maybe they have them,I'm not familiar with the military GM trucks ,just the civillian models)...

 

[red EOD]

Basically the CUCV's are the bare basic civilian truck with a 24v starter, 2 alternators, blackout lights, and a cutout switch to disable all lights. Meant for common use in non combat areas. 6.2 diesel/th400/np208 was the standard drivetrain except for some pickup models that needed a PTO so they got the np205. K5 got half ton axles with 3.08 gears and open diffs, the pickups got D60 front 14 bolt ff rear with 4.56 gears and a detroit in the rear axle.