CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

oem 2 piston caliper for d44 (now jb7 upgrade. well worth the $25)

Yeah, I do as well.

When I went to the 4 wheel dis, I got increased pedal travel, but gained stopping power.

You mention increased pedal travel when upgrading to the larger calipers.

Seems like it may once again increase pedal travel. Not good to have too much.

Then again, I could be wrong.
 
Yeah, I do as well.

When I went to the 4 wheel dis, I got increased pedal travel, but gained stopping power.

You mention increased pedal travel when upgrading to the larger calipers.

Seems like it may once again increase pedal travel. Not good to have too much.

Then again, I could be wrong.

I also only gravity bled it. Im sure a good power bleed on all four wheels will help
 
Bled is bled. Doesn't really matter how you get there, so long as you don't have air in the system.

When you go to a larger hydraulic cylinder, (2" to 3" pistons or drum brake cylinder to 2" piston for example) you need a larger volume of fluid to operate the larger hydraulics.

That's where you get the longer pedal travel, you're just pushing more fluid to operate everything.

I'm worried that going to the larger piston will put too much demand on my stock JB6 ( I think) master cylinder.

I figured if you were running 4 wheel disc with the JB7 front calipers and a JB6 master cylinder, then it would be fine for me to do it without a larger master cylinder.

But it looks like I'll need to go with a larger master cylinder to take advantage of JB7 calipers.
 
Bled is bled. Doesn't really matter how you get there, so long as you don't have air in the system.

When you go to a larger hydraulic cylinder, (2" to 3" pistons or drum brake cylinder to 2" piston for example) you need a larger volume of fluid to operate the larger hydraulics.

That's where you get the longer pedal travel, you're just pushing more fluid to operate everything.

I'm worried that going to the larger piston will put too much demand on my stock JB6 ( I think) master cylinder.

I figured if you were running 4 wheel disc with the JB7 front calipers and a JB6 master cylinder, then it would be fine for me to do it without a larger master cylinder.

But it looks like I'll need to go with a larger master cylinder to take advantage of JB7 calipers.

Stock should be jb5 unless you have a 3/4 ton truck.
Run the part number on your mc just to be sure though.

But you make perfect sense. Its the logic behind hydraulics. You can always try it and swap mc's if you need to. Although a jb6 will be the biggest before hydroboost (I think)

Im doing my disc swap soon hopefully. Its cheaper than get my drums done. They're close to shot. Im probably going to put half ton calipers in the back to keep a nice brake bias. And I was planning on keeping my current mc but im not sure.now...
 
I like how much better my truck stops with the disc brakes on the rear.

And yeah, it's a half ton. Probably JB5.

The entire reason I want the larger JB7 front calipers, is the same reason you figure to go half ton calipers on the rear, to get a proper brake bias going.

By the way, my truck stops really well with 4 wheel disc, and I have not gotten around to mashing the pedal just yet.

It stops so well, I'm afraid I'll hit the windshield if I stop much faster. :eek1:

I might mention, my brake light is on since I did the disc swap. Really annoys me.
 
if your getting pedal at more than 1/2 to 3/4 with little spare travel left thats not the best conditions. best to get the correct bigger master for the brakes to work correctly.
 
I have 4 wheel disc on mine. JB7 calipers out back, JB5 up front with JB7 master cylinder, firm high pedal, and will lock up the rear easily. When I did my axle swap, I retained my old calipers on the front, but since my axle came with JB7 calipers, I used them as cores and just stuck them on the back.
 
I have 4 wheel disc on mine. JB7 calipers out back, JB5 up front with JB7 master cylinder, firm high pedal, and will lock up the rear easily. When I did my axle swap, I retained my old calipers on the front, but since my axle came with JB7 calipers, I used them as cores and just stuck them on the back.

You need to swap those the other way. That's horrible brake bias.
 
I agree.

I imagine switching the calipers will keep your rear from locking up, while braking tons better.
 
That's great until someone pulls out in front of you and you hit the brakes and either

1 - slide sideways and hit them sideways

2 - start sliding then let off and hit them straight

Seriously, swap your calipers front/rear, the larger piston belongs in the front. I purposely put the smaller piston in hte back and still had to bias it down a little bit with an adj. prop valve. I can't imagine how bad yours is, although mine is a shortbed truck.

Speaking of which, I have since switched to D60 front, so I could probably turn the back up a tad more.
 
That's great until someone pulls out in front of you and you hit the brakes and either

1 - slide sideways and hit them sideways

2 - start sliding then let off and hit them straight

Seriously, swap your calipers front/rear, the larger piston belongs in the front. I purposely put the smaller piston in hte back and still had to bias it down a little bit with an adj. prop valve. I can't imagine how bad yours is, although mine is a shortbed truck.

Speaking of which, I have since switched to D60 front, so I could probably turn the back up a tad more.

He's 100% correct. The whole reason I went with the bigger calipers is because anytime I really needed to stop my rear end would lock up and I would go sideways. And in a blazer, you go sideways QUICK.
 
Oh yea, never posted a picture
.
2011-08-14_21-48-50_698.jpg
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom