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Oh no...broken bleed screws

JST12

1/2 ton status
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Aug 29, 2000
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Garland, TX
Not a good day. 3 of the 4 bleed screws on my brakes snapped off (after axle replacements). The screws had not been used in years. I was careful, using penetrating oil, and I tried heating and not heating, etc... But, the bleed screw heads snapped off anyway. The axles are a 14boltFF with drums and the fronts are standard 3/4 ton 10bolt disc calipers. Should I replace the entire calipers in front , or is there a way to drill out the bleeders and install new ones? Seems like there is a smaller bore at the bottom of the bleed screw, so drilling and retapping might be risky. And for the rear axle, is there any other way to bleed the brakes, or drill them out too? Anyone else have this problem? Thanks, JT
 
Everyone has always told me that when the bleeder screw breaks, it is time to replace that part. I have tried, unsuccessfully, to dril and retap, only to make it worse. Rebuilt calipers are cheap, and your brakes keep you alive. Spend some money now and call it preventative maintenance.
My .02
John
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'83 GMC Jimmy 4x4 ZZ4 Crate Motor
'84 Chevy P/U 4x4 Sand Drag Racer, 578 RWHP
'94 Impala SS
'01 Chevy 2500HD w/8.1L & Allsion Auto
 
Calipers are going to be easy to replace and it sounds like the way to go in front. What about the rear? Do I need new drum plates? That may be tough. JT
 
yup time to replace the calipers and wheel cylinders in the rear.... just do all 4 so you can do it and forget it. Nothing I hate more then mess'n w/ broken crap... yuck! Drill, tap, easyout... yuck. The only real option would be if you have an esay out set yoy could drill a hole into the bleed and then heat that sucker up red hot so you could get it out, but unfortunetly sometimes this screws up the calipers and cylinders so you need to buy them anyways. One word of advice... front calipers wise... I like Raybestos cause seems like everything else is junk... rear wheel cylinders I go wagners... while you're add it get shoes and pads and call it the full brake meal deal.

ND55856.jpg

1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
 
Ive had this happen several times.I ended up bleeding the system by cracking the line at the caliper or wheel cyl.It worked fine and got all the air out.

Proving once again that man CAN live on beer alone
 
Try an easy out it worked for me several times. If not new calipers and wheel cylinders. Bleeding at just the line won't get air out of the caliper or wheel cylinder.
 
Well, I broke off my easyout in the bleed screw. Now that caliper is really toast. New ones coming for the front. But in the rear, wheel cylinders are needed I guess....but it looks like the bleeder is screwed into the drum backing plate. Do I need to remove the wheel cylinder, and then drill out the bleed screw from the plate? JT
 
Clean up the area around the bleed screw a bit and look again. Typically there's a hole in the backing plate where the brake line and bleed screw can reach the wheel cylinder.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
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