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Oil additive

78Suburban

78Suburban

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Gonna go to the parts store monday and pick up some stuff to band aid my terminal turd (5psi motor). I've already got 3 quarts of 10w30 castrol. I'll pick up 2 more and a filter.. So that brings me to the question:
What brand oil additives have yall used, and have you been happy with them?
Do you have to put less oil in so your crankcase won't be overfilled when adding an additive (I'm not sure how much additive is used)?
Thanks,
James
 
I dont use additives because my rings are worn and I'm burning off oil at the rate of 1 quart every 200miles highway (3000 rpm). That meens the additive is burning away as well. Pick an additive and read the instructions some say to underservice, some say not too.
 
If your motor is really that bad additives won't help ya. Just use a 20/50 or if we are talking totally FUBAR'd here just use a 50 weight. Your lifters prob have 'generous' clearance too so they won't mind the 50w.
Time for a rebuild eh?
 
Anything that advertises itself as a "mechanic in a bottle" usually isn't. Oil additives are supposedly designed to help you overcome inferior lubricants, not fix mechanical problems.

An additive may swell the seals making you think it's working, but it'll leak worse eventually. Beyond that, combustion temps will make it shear and fall to the bottom of the oil pan, and cause your bearings to corrode.

either fix it right, or buy cheap thick oil and deal with the leaks.

Tom
 
will 20w50 be ok to drive in 20 to 30 degree weather, or will the cold start finish my motor off?
 
You will be fine unless you are one of those people that hops in the vehical and has it in gear and hard on the gass before the motor is even fully started.
 
avoid using slick 50 or other similar additives they contain teflon it does improve performance but it wears all of you parts really fast the teflon usually clumps up and shortens the life of the oil pump too. eventually it will gunk up the inside of your motor and i would have to agree with tom

*quote*Anything that advertises itself as a "mechanic in a bottle" usually isn't. Oil additives are supposedly designed to help you overcome inferior lubricants, not fix mechanical problems.

An additive may swell the seals making you think it's working, but it'll leak worse eventually. Beyond that, combustion temps will make it shear and fall to the bottom of the oil pan, and cause your bearings to corrode.

either fix it right, or buy cheap thick oil and deal with the leaks.

Tom*quote*
 
so what should I use for the cold weather in my Dying Turd?
15/40 or 20/50? Its not going to be common for the weather to be much under freezing.
 
As long as your changing the oil you should drop the pan and check out your pump. I just got done with low psi problem and it wiped out cam but after replacing cam i was still running pressure like yours and not much better with the 20-50w so i pulled oil pump and found that relief valve was seizing. Put new pump on went back to 10-40w and now I idle at about 20-25 psi :D .
 
won't the pan be hard to make seal properly? Is the pump hard to replace? Somone told me that if the loose bearing clearances were causing it, then the new pump might have just enough pressure to finish my motor off?

So should I use gasket and sealer on the pan? How any ftlbs and what torque pattern? How many ftlbs for the pump? Is this a realistic task for a noob to try to accomplish?
 
I have a haynes manual and am not over joyed with it.
guess I do need to break down and get a chitons.

For now I'll try some 20w50 weight oil, and hope it doesn't mess up my motor with cold weather starts (As if my motor isn't already messed up) :p:
 
Another trick you can try (that is much easier than dropping the oil pan) is to put a quart of ATF in the motor and run it for 15-30 minutes (ATF has good detergents in it and frees up a bunch of sludge that can block oil passages). Then drain the oil and change the filter. You can repeat this if you want (with cheap oil to try and clean it out better). Low oil pressure can be caused (at least in part) by blocked oil passages and a clogged pickup. This seems to work pretty well and was suggested to me by a Ford mechanic (I've done it on a number of motors with no problems). Then refill the motor with 20W-50.
 
Mercon Dextron? I guess I could try it... 4 quarts of regular and 1 quart of ATF? I don't guess it will finish my poor old motor off :crazy: ?
 
78Suburban said:
I have a haynes manual and am not over joyed with it.
guess I do need to break down and get a chitons.
Click to expand...


A chilton isn't much different from a haynes manual. After all the chilton is made by haynes. I don't particularly care for either. I have offten run into stuff that those book didn't even cover. I ended up getting the gm service manual.
 
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