Anyone know where I can get some new oil cooler lines? Part number maybe?
Blew an oil line today...caught fire.
Rene
Blew an oil line today...caught fire.
Rene
CK5
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Oil cooler lines.
- Thread starter tRustyK5
- Start date
You need the rubber line or the metal part? I have an extra set of metal tubes I'd sell you cheap.
I need the metal line(s)...
Without crawling under the Exxon Valdez, I seem to recall the rubber part is crimped onto the aluminum lines though. My line blew a few inches from where it bolts into the rad...
How much are you asking for them?
Rene
Without crawling under the Exxon Valdez, I seem to recall the rubber part is crimped onto the aluminum lines though. My line blew a few inches from where it bolts into the rad...
How much are you asking for them?
Rene
my local hydro line shop / big truck service shop was able to make them from steel for my farmer friends old 6.2 chevy truck. much better than the aluminum tube style. just needed to give them the nuts to pop on before thay flared them.
The rubber hose disconnects from the aluminum part with a fitting. First thing to check though is to make sure it wasn't just a blown out o-ring. I'd sell the extra tubes for $10 plus shipping, but I'm working 200 miles away from home right now and not sure when I'll get back there again to ship them Since your probably going to need something faster I'd say check around locally too.
Since your probably going to need something faster I'd say check around locally too.
No, the 'O' ring was/is fine. When I did the 6.2 swap I recall seeing some minor pitting on one line. Looks like it had a battery cable arc against it at one time. The previous owner of the donor truck I used was a real piece of work...so many things just butchered. Anyways, the line didn't leak so i thought that pitting was pretty minor and cosmetic. The pressure eventually blew through the thinnest parts of the pitted area.
I wonder if an O.R.B. hydraulic fitting would work? If so I'll probably have some lines made up.
Rene
I wonder if an O.R.B. hydraulic fitting would work? If so I'll probably have some lines made up.
Rene
that flare is just a bigger version of the oring p/s or gm fule line type.
afroman006
1/2 ton status
And its metric. This might not be as big of a problem in Canadia but it can pose an obsticle here.
savagek5diesel
1/2 ton status
i've got numbers.....
12472199 $77.36
12472200 $91.31
14061344 $41.07
14061345 $41.07
(i think the two cheaper one's are the rubber lines the run into the the oil filter bracket. The two upper ones are more than likely the metal lines)
i priced some lines a couple months ago at the GM dealership. also, i learned this the hard way, chevy changed the style of those aluminum lines from one year to the other, so the ends that plug into the radiator are different. one is a slip in style with Oring, and the other is just a flared end w/Oring. i had the slip in style originally, the replacement radiator i got was fitted for the flared fitting, all i did to fix it was cut off the slip fitting with a hack saw and it works.
And in the dealers part # diagram it didn't reference the two different ends.
12472199 $77.36
12472200 $91.31
14061344 $41.07
14061345 $41.07
(i think the two cheaper one's are the rubber lines the run into the the oil filter bracket. The two upper ones are more than likely the metal lines)
i priced some lines a couple months ago at the GM dealership. also, i learned this the hard way, chevy changed the style of those aluminum lines from one year to the other, so the ends that plug into the radiator are different. one is a slip in style with Oring, and the other is just a flared end w/Oring. i had the slip in style originally, the replacement radiator i got was fitted for the flared fitting, all i did to fix it was cut off the slip fitting with a hack saw and it works.
And in the dealers part # diagram it didn't reference the two different ends.
well, every stealership i went to said they were discontinued and i couldn't find a parts shop which carried them. i ended up just going to the CAT dealership/shop and they made up some hydrolic lines for me. they couldn't make the metal part, so i just pay attention to how the rubber lines look by the manifold. i figure i shouldn't have much of a problem considering that the little glow plug wires practically hang over the manifold and their insulation isn't even scorched.
Sounds like you found some lazy parts guyscolbystephens said:
maybe, but that's what i got from about 5 places - and they even showed me the code from gm which showed the part as discontinued.
colbystephens said:
Do you know if the rad end is O.R.B. then? If so I'll get some lines made up.
I'm not too fond of the aluminum lines running across the rad anyways.
Rene
savagek5diesel
1/2 ton status
discontinued....
thats what the dealership was thinking when we looked up the lines, but we got to making some phone calls and they found out that the part numbers had been changed. So the part #'s i posted earlier are the NEW part numbers from the GM dealership. hope this helps somebody.
thats what the dealership was thinking when we looked up the lines, but we got to making some phone calls and they found out that the part numbers had been changed. So the part #'s i posted earlier are the NEW part numbers from the GM dealership. hope this helps somebody.
tRustyK5 said:
i'm not sure what ORB means.
ORB= 'O' Ring Boss.
It's a type of hydraulic fitting, just like JIC, and SAE are. I'm thinking they probably are O.R.B. seeing as there is an 'O' ring there...pretty much eliminates SAE and JIC as possibilties. The only concern i have is that it is some inhouse GM only oddball fitting. Wouldn't surpise me...except you managed to get lines made.
Rene
It's a type of hydraulic fitting, just like JIC, and SAE are. I'm thinking they probably are O.R.B. seeing as there is an 'O' ring there...pretty much eliminates SAE and JIC as possibilties. The only concern i have is that it is some inhouse GM only oddball fitting. Wouldn't surpise me...except you managed to get lines made.
Rene
savagek5diesel said:
When I inputted those GM numbers at GMpartsdirect.com all 4 came back as "Could not be found"...
Rene
when i had my lines made, i had my buddy's 6.2 blazer so the dude just took a look at the one end near the cooler and made both ends to that. as it turns out, this is not the same thread which went into the block. however, as it worked out, the original cooler lines screw into another fitting which goes into the block and this happened to fit the fitting this dude made. are you confused yet?
LOL, gotcha!
Rene
Rene
Aluminum???
Thats weird...my 82 k20's oil cooler lines where they cross over the radiator core are RUSTY!!..so mine are not aluminum!!..they must have changed the lines and tubes on every year they made,by the sounds of the posts here!..
I doubt mine will unscrew from the radiator without tearing the bungs out,so I might have to "re-engineer" it somehow,like buy an aftermarket cooler and use the right rubber hose that comes with it..or maybe use barb fittings in the block and the rubber hose,and cut and flare, or somehow connect the hose to whats left of the metal lines ,(compression unions?)once they fail..
Maybe if I can get the fittings out without damaging the radiator,a hydraulic hose shop can make some lines up to replace the whole shebang..I dont see why metal is really nessasary where they cross the radiator in the shroud area..
I'm wondering if the oil cooler is even needed at all--I know a guy with a fleet of GM trucks who owns a cranberry bogg,with several GM diesel flatbed 1 tons,and when his hoses or coolers fail,he just puts plugs in the block where the hoses used to go!.
.... none of his trucks have showed any signs of it being bad for them..and he doesn't exactly baby them either...
I dont tow,only plow my driveway and other small areas..I doubt I'd even know it wasn't hooked up anymore...
..
Thats weird...my 82 k20's oil cooler lines where they cross over the radiator core are RUSTY!!..so mine are not aluminum!!..they must have changed the lines and tubes on every year they made,by the sounds of the posts here!..
I doubt mine will unscrew from the radiator without tearing the bungs out,so I might have to "re-engineer" it somehow,like buy an aftermarket cooler and use the right rubber hose that comes with it..or maybe use barb fittings in the block and the rubber hose,and cut and flare, or somehow connect the hose to whats left of the metal lines ,(compression unions?)once they fail..
Maybe if I can get the fittings out without damaging the radiator,a hydraulic hose shop can make some lines up to replace the whole shebang..I dont see why metal is really nessasary where they cross the radiator in the shroud area..
I'm wondering if the oil cooler is even needed at all--I know a guy with a fleet of GM trucks who owns a cranberry bogg,with several GM diesel flatbed 1 tons,and when his hoses or coolers fail,he just puts plugs in the block where the hoses used to go!.
.... none of his trucks have showed any signs of it being bad for them..and he doesn't exactly baby them either...I dont tow,only plow my driveway and other small areas..I doubt I'd even know it wasn't hooked up anymore...
..
