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Oil pan removal info for info on New K5 tailgates!!!

D

_DeeVee8_

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I know I have asked this b4 but I forgot when I posted the question and since then I have lost which month it was in---anyways-- I have not alot of time--to do this--so

DO I really need to lift the engine up to remove an oil pan on a 1985 chevy350/305 or can I remove the pan just by dropping the pan down after unbolting it...

Why would I need to lift and block up the engine as it states in the HAYNES manual?

Why can't I just unbolt it --it doesn't look like the cross member will get anywhere near in the WAY?
Is blocking up the engine really the only thing I can do?

anyone done this-- just give me a Nod on this--and I swear I will get back to this post TODAY//Tonight just as soon as I get some info--I sure don't feel like blocking up the motor just for installing a new pan and HIPO oil pump!

Please get back to me and I'll tell you where to get New GI MILITARY never used Rear tailgates for less than $100.00 bucks!

Thanks!

"You tried your best and you failed miserably.The lesson is, never try"
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I have done this without lifting the engine. it isn't hard and I have done it more than once. Go fot it, it just takes a little manuvering to get the pan out...

Where are these tailgates and exactly how much?

Mike
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See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
 
Emmett's right. I pulled mine off a couple weeks ago (only to find chunks of piston in the pan). It's pretty straight forward. Just remember the four end bolts (two front, two rear) are bigger than the side ones. Also the two front ones were a little tricky to get to, but tricky, not hard.

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!
 
I guess your talking about a K5 or a 4wd PU. I have removed the pan on a K5 with no problems at all. The vehicle did have a 4"lift kit on it, but if I remember correctly the crossmember and front diff. are out of harms way even without the lift. It was a bit of a bear to hold the pan up and re-start the pan bolts on each corner when putting it back but since I did mine I have seen a stud kit for each of the 4 corners of the pan in the Summitt catalog which I am sure help line things up when going back together. Nike in Mo.

Blue
 
Actually the hardest part of your project is going to be lining up the oil pump shaft with the gear on the bottom of the distributor. Unless you plan on pulling the distributor, then lining the shaft up from the top with a long screwdriver, but this would also be difficult as the space between the distributor and the firewall is tight. Good luck.
I'd be interested in one of those tailgates too, thanks.
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It's not what you buy, it's what you build!
 
Another thing, is the pump Hi volume or Hi Pressure? Or both? Becareful to make sure it's right for your application. Hi volume means it flows more oil, and the hi pressure (actually it's just the relief spring inside the pump) flows the oil at a greater pressure. This sounds good, but depending on the clearances on your bearings the extra pressure might create an instance were the bearings aren't being lubricated adequately due to the oil being pumped at too great of a pressure amount. I learned this the hard way, and I had to replace the spring later after I fired up the engine and the oil pressure was WAY too high.


It's not what you buy, it's what you build!
 
I installed my oil pump with the shaft NOT engaging the gear on the distributor. NOT fun when I turned it over and you hear your engine scream for mercy.
But then I made sure it was engaged and no devasting damage was done.
About removing the oil pan, the oil pan on my 350 (76 k10) is VERY close to the crossmember. Not a big deal when taking it off, but when puting ht epan back on I knocked the gaskets around because it was a tight fit.
If I have to do it again, I'd probably raise the engine a little and use the one-piece gasket (those pans love to leak.)
-- Mike
 
Looks like you've got your answer on the oil pan already, plus I had no clue LOL, but I'm very interested in the tailgate.

Scott 87JIMMY
 
thanks for all your insight on how to remove and re assemble the oil pan -- I did what any American would have done in this situation...I grabbed a few "cans of courage" and did the job half in the bag...It.s funny how I can be as adventurous on other peoples motors and go into it without asking a question, but when it comes to my own rig, my own pride and joy, i'd rather leave that up to someone else----anyways--

on with the information I WAS SUPPOSED TO LET YOU'ALL HAVE-- but then my server crashed And I had another big job ahead of me..

ok

I don't know if this source has been tapped out allready-- but I ordered two tailgates from this compnay ---you get the shells only! NO GUTS! YOU'LL HAVE TO FIND THAT STUFF on your own...but they are really nice new-- never used parts--no rust on them-- painted olive drab for that extra militant look!

here is the address:

Colman's SurPlus
360 Klinger Road
Millersburg, PA 17061


Directions FRom Harrisburg,PA Take 322W to147N to Millersburg. From Millersburg sqare, take Rt. 209N exactly 3.5 miles. Turn Left onto Klinger Road and go 1/3 mile. Then take First road on right. Then you are there!!!

FRom Exit 33 off I-81 -Take Rt.209S approx. 25 miles, go straight at red light in elizebethville, then go approx 4 miles--turn right onto Klinger road and go 1/3 mile take first macadam raod on right---then you are there!!

or you can call for a catalog
1 - 888 4SURPLUS



tell them Woody from Maine sent you there!


If you go in person-- you'll have a better chance to do some wheelin' and dealin' for a whole lot more!
Dv8

"You tried your best and you failed miserably.The lesson is, never try"
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DV8, thanks for the info, unfortunately my shell is decent (minor rust) but the inards are what I need to replace, that and the glass is missing. Oh well! I hope it worked out with your oil pan, keep it cool!
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It's not what you buy, it's what you build!
 
Hey Talldog, I'm installing a soft-top on a permanent basis and will be gutting my tailgate. I also have some spare innards. Interested? ( I have no room to store this stuff)
I could send you the works. By the way its a power window not a manual, and the motor is pretty good, not new but pretty good.
The rear glass has a couple of minor scatches. Send me a private if your interesed.

Rene

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Hey guess what, I was at Colman's Surplus just last week and bought a hood. They said they never had any tailgates, (I would have bought a half dozen.) So buddy, you outo get your ass under your blazer,and get that work finished, (that your so afraid to do do,) instead of making empty promices!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Whatever. They may have run out. I figured this was a long ago tapped out source. I held onto the shipping invoice. Hey? maybe I should post it to make a point to Gopher?

"You tried your best and you failed miserably.The lesson is, never try"
wink.gif
 
I heard about Colemans over a year ago and dropped them an email, they wanted $250/each for the few damaged ones that they had left, and said they had sold out of the good ones long before that.
 
Why the hell doesn't somebody start and make one? I MEAN -- we are BUILDING these rigs ourselves.. why not make a fiberglass shell? Make a mold from a good one and build a frame and setup the guts for the insides and so on??? I think this would be a rather easy job--it would lighten up the rear end-- make it easier to flip down, and removal could be done by your girlfriend! What a noval IDEA!!



"I suffer from CRS; Can't Remember Shi*"
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