Oil restrictors hydraulic roller cams??

[nsxxtreme]

Im just confused. "oh no my oil pressure drops all the way to 65 psi at times!" ? I consider anything over 30psi to be good oil pressure. You had other issues if you toasted your rods/mains with 40 psi. There are 200k mile motors around here(on the site) that have never seen 40psi in their lives.

And they are about 1/2 the HP and torque and would be lucky to see anything over 4k rpms. Less forces also trying to squeeze that oil out. I've had one of those motors and never concerned myself with oil pressure. From everything I have read 10psi per 1k rpm is the absolute minimum you should run. So 40 psi at 5k rpms I could see it being a problem.

 

[Fordum]

I don't mind trying Amsoil I've heard good things about them.

I like the stuff. I run it in everything I have except for the Genset. Which probably needs it more than the others since its a turbo.
But, I just can't stand the price of 6 gallons of it per change.

But I do run it in my cars, trucks, lawn mowers, 4wheeler and 1949 8N Ford tractor.

Does it increase gas mileage? Probably, but I doubt its enough to notice or to pay for the extra cost.

Does it reduce friction in a gearbox or differential? Absolutely. The temperature difference between it and regular gear lube is very obvious.

As far as increasing the life of an engine or gearbox, I personally think it does, but have no actual proof, since none of the units I run it in have needed rebuilding yet.

And lastly, is Amsoil best or better than others? Not a clue.
Mobil 1 to the contrary, I understand that they pretty much invented civilian use of synthetics, but if that makes them better, who knows.

I seem to get good performance out of their stuff, and have a guy in the business that gets me preferred pricing, so I'm going to use it.

 

[nsxxtreme]

On a side note if your buying parts price doesn't mean everything. I can't say enough about Jegs. They really stand behind the products they sell. I called them and I explained what the issue was and wasn't expecting anything. I was asking them to sell me a new kit at a discount if they could. They replaced EVERYTHING and even paid for the shipping back to them. Way more then I had ever expected I was absolutely stunned.

 

[howdiy]

My truck makes 80psi cold, the first time I saw that I was concerned

Drops to about 40 warm though

 

[63chevyll]

ya know,ive been thinking
what crank do you have?

Ive heard horror storries about the cross drilled cranks and oil passages that the aftermarket does with their cranks, unlike the factory. My crank grinder has steered me away from cross drilled cranks, and alot of 383 kits use them.

Most Import (toyota/Honda) are cross drilled, but have plugs at the end of the rod end. its where one main is drilled and another hole goes from the rod to main. you will need to google it fopr a pic.

I know the cross drilled is good for lube with drag guys. and not sure how the imports have mad ethem last so long. Prob alot to do with the size of the holes

the Factory Chevy cranks are staight drilled (I think thats the term) so one main feeds one rod.

 

[nsxxtreme]

ya know,ive been thinking
what crank do you have?

Ive heard horror storries about the cross drilled cranks and oil passages that the aftermarket does with their cranks, unlike the factory. My crank grinder has steered me away from cross drilled cranks, and alot of 383 kits use them.

Most Import (toyota/Honda) are cross drilled, but have plugs at the end of the rod end. its where one main is drilled and another hole goes from the rod to main. you will need to google it fopr a pic.

I know the cross drilled is good for lube with drag guys. and not sure how the imports have mad ethem last so long. Prob alot to do with the size of the holes

the Factory Chevy cranks are staight drilled (I think thats the term) so one main feeds one rod.

I'm not sure what your referring to but the crank was an eagle rods crank. One main will always supply oil to 2 rods. You have 8 Rods and not enough mains to be 1 main 1 rod.

A quick google of the term and you might be on to something though. I'll have to contact eagle and see if they are indeed cross drilled. From the online explanations that would indeed explain the problem. Learn something new everyday . I didn't pay attention when I installed it so I am not sure. Other then checking clearences I didn't inspect the crank.

*edit* So I contacted Jegs and they claim its not cross drilled it used standard oiling passages.

 

[63chevyll]

Ok, standard passages, a good thing for a street crank.

Sorry if I'm asking, but this is the same 383 you built for your blazer and have since pulled it and replaced the bearings and having same trouble again?.

Ok, who installed the cam bearings?

Are you running a magnet on the bottom of oil filter to see if you have metal?

If not I would just run it

 

[CGT80]

I run a 406 sbc with a factory 4 bolt block 30 over, scat 9000 series crank and rods, trw hyper flat tops, comp 270 magnum cam, ported and polished aluminum heads (190/205 valves) and intake, HV meling oil pump, stock pan, pickup spaced correctly, all assembled by a good machinist. On straight 30 wt for break in I would hit up to 95psi oil pressure when cold, if I got on it. 60-70 psi warmed up a bit, in socal winter. On 10-30 castrol oil it will run 50-60psi. When it is very warm outside and the truck has been run a while, the pressure can drop to 13-18 psi at 550rpm idle in gear. The pressure bounces around with the pattern of the idle. I also have 60-70 psi at 5,000-6,000 RPM.

The idle pressure bothers me sometimes, but at 550 rpm, I am told it only needs 7 or 8psi. I talked to a drag racer who runs a 396. He said his pressure is only 40-50psi and his engines have done well. I have 20k miles on mine so far in a 79 C20 pickup. I don't usually run it past 5k rpm and it is still doing good.

I don't know anything about running oil restrictors.

 

[nsxxtreme]

Ok, standard passages, a good thing for a street crank.

Sorry if I'm asking, but this is the same 383 you built for your blazer and have since pulled it and replaced the bearings and having same trouble again?.

Ok, who installed the cam bearings?

Are you running a magnet on the bottom of oil filter to see if you have metal?

If not I would just run it

yup same engine, cam bearings were installed by the machine shop. I didn't just replace the bearings the entire bottom end was replaced including the block. The pan has a magnet on the drain bolt and I have yet to remove the drain bolt or the oil filter.

The only difference between what I had before and what I have now is I went with a HV oil pump this time around. Which the HV pump has improved the oil pressue at high RPM. The dropping oil pressure just still has me worried. Eagle swears up and down that oil restictors are required. I've contacted lunati and Edelbrock and both say dont use oil restrictors.