CK5
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Ok here we go again..... Oh yea we bad

So after our annual end of May two feet snow fall I did some work on the white truck until I can get some blades for the saws all. O started getting to old welded mounting cleaned up. I was asked "if your putting another box on it why bother no one will know" WRONG! I will know and beside I want it to be done and look perfect. When all this is done I can add experienced grinder and cut off operator to my list of skills. Calling for rain tonight so I just blew some paint over the places I worked on. Just how far can I go on one disc before it splinters......

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OK found out the AvantiPro disc are far better than the HF ones... :grind:
Todays the upper frame is clear of weld stubs from flat bed.
Next is to get on the ground and work on the back stubs.
And the last one is just a movie flash back..... :popcorn:
Next is to get Yellows cab disconnected. Hydro-boost here I come. :cautious:

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Going to try and leave it intact on the white truck by unbolting it from fire wall the yellow truck is open due to the brake lines ripping off the front. so that will be the test rig so I do not break that little pin thingy. One of the book info I have on the system and Albert the head CDOT mechanic for the area said he would hold my hand if I buy the beer...... not sure how that will turn out
 

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Going to try and leave it intact on the white truck by unbolting it from fire wall the yellow truck is open due to the brake lines ripping off the front. so that will be the test rig so I do not break that little pin thingy. One of the book info I have on the system and Albert the head CDOT mechanic for the area said he would hold my hand if I buy the beer...... not sure how that will turn out

Is the yellow truck's hydrobooster intact? It would be a lot easier to leave the hydroboosters alone and bolt the old M/C onto the new booster. If they're the same and the yellow one still works, that is.
 
Is the yellow truck's hydrobooster intact? It would be a lot easier to leave the hydroboosters alone and bolt the old M/C onto the new booster. If they're the same and the yellow one still works, that is.
The lines are broke off at the axle and I am told that bleeding these system is a biotch!
 
The lines are broke off at the axle and I am told that bleeding these system is a biotch!

It's not. Bleeding the brake lines is like any other 1980s brake system, front or rear. Pretty easy if you just have a wrench and a partner, and even easier if you have a $25 vacuum pump (no partner required). Just bolt the existing, intact M/C onto the hydrobooster that comes with the yellow cab. No replumbing aside from hooking up the P/S lines to the booster, and you won't hafta rework the brake lines or tear apart the dash region. 2 bolts + 3 hoses and you are done. No crawling into tight areas.

Win-win-win!
 
You can bleed brakes easily alone by simply using the engine vacuum to suck the air out of the system..all you need is a long enough piece of clear vinyl tubing with a 3/16" I.D.or so that fits over the bleeder screws snugly..

If you want to be fancy,you cam rig up a "catch can" out of a glass jar & lid by poking two holes in the lid and soldering in some 3/16" brake tubing ,put one piece all the way to the bottom,the other about 1" past the lid,and hook the vacuum source to that tube..
I use vise-grips as an "on-off" switch to control the vacuum..
This works well to bleed stubborn hydraulic clutches too..
 
bleading the hydro boost / p/s system is a little more involved but not hard at all. just did one 2 weeks ago . no problems.
 
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