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OK so ive got my 205... broken ring

O

obijuan

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allright, ive got the 27 spline 205 figure 8 style slip yoke so i can put it behind my 700. Jimbo stopped by with an excellent deal i must say and my 208s are all bad. the time has come for the BEEF. :D

so, what i understand is that ive got to get a new crossmember which is the flat belly one i just gave away.... but it was from a 400/208 combo from an 84 with the two pieces mount. is this the right one? yes it is and ive got it now.

How do i go about cutting this output shaft?

also, ive got to modify my front CV at the CV or at the xmember to fit? also a shorten is in order from what i hear.

the correct spacer is which one? im not too fond of grinding the trans output shaft but if ive got to i guess its necessary. does anyone have an ebay link or something with a photo so i can visualise this. ive clicked on a few deal links. is the "switch kit" the best one? its from techpak fitzall, it will be here tomorrow. its only 50 bucks they wanted 25 for shipping. WTF so i ordered it locally for cheaper.

then the two bolts on the side for the bracing, can my 208 rod thing still work or do i need the "L" shaped brace?

shifter boot, this one came with the shifter rod but no boot or anything, can i get this boot setup aftermarket and will it use the stock hole in my floor even with this spacer?

slip yoke eliminator, will that stuff from a 10 spline swap over or do i need another 27? a local guy has one for 75 bucks, good price? it will swap over and need a new driveshaft. and its fuggin easy as crap.

i think thats all for now and i appreciate the help. :bow::bow::bow:
yall have saved my ass a time or two. i owe yall bigtime.
 
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fixed yoke will bolt right in place off your 10 spline just make sure to watch the needle bearings in the housing, also you need the adapter from techpak fitzall its a 2" spacer, ur crossmember will work. and personally i would recommend the fixed yoke over the slip anyday so the sooner you do that the better, you will need a new d-shaft made up with a slip yoke in the dshaft because you are elim it in the tcase
 
not bad.
did you say my current "W" shaped crossmember will work or the flat one?
can you SYE it in the truck or just do it while its out, and should i twin stick it for ****s and giggles?
 
flat crossmember and i would swap tailshafts while its out easiest plus with the needle bearings be sure to get them all and when you go to swap the fixed yoke it use grease in the hole to hold the needle bearings in there so they dont fall all over the place making you go screwy lol
 
so about this hole in the floor, will it get in the way of my console, or say a bench seat?
 
When i swapped my 400./205 in place of the 350/203 i had to cut a hole about5 inches back as well.... will need to remove teh console too...

I 'think' with twinstick you can get around this???
 
BizeeB65 said:
didnt happen to get a spare shift lever did you?
Click to expand...


negatory.

just for confirmation,. this is the xmember in question:
8470_1.JPG
 
got some pics of it next to my 8 lug hubs.
DSC00502.jpg


DSC00503.jpg


DSC00505.jpg


the guts look good inside huh? i wanna kinda take it apart and give it a nice paint job while im SYE ing it with the 10 spline 205.
is there a brief manual or something online where i can reference the parts assembly and maybe a write up for the SYE? it seems easy but i tend to **** things up first try.


also ive read that the newer model 205s had different shifters, are they longer and bent more forwards perhaps?
 
ok so ive got my crossmember coming to me off ebay and the spacer will be here tomorrow. still need poly mounts, sye, and a rear driveshaft. ill just take the shifter off until i can make me a new one, shouldnt be a problem eh?

whats the best way to go about cutting off this output shaft? can i just take my big grinder to it or should i use the port-a-band? if i go over 1/8 of an inch will it kill me? did anyone by chance take a picture of it when they did theres?
 
if your goin poly tranny mounts, better do poly motor mounts too. Ive heard of a few people cracking the transmission case cause of mismatched mounts. But i will say i have no personal experience, but it does make sense.
 
I may have missed something here but, if your using the fitz-all spacer (1"), you don't need to shorten the trans output shaft..
 
sweeeeeeet! i hope so! thats the one i got. everywhere i read said youve got to trim the output shaft 1/8th of an inch. im glad to hear thats not an issue and from you!
werent you planning or have done this before? your thread is far too long!
 
yeah, I've got everything except the fitzall spacer... funny thing is, i have a distributor for them around the corner from my house.. need to stop in and order that..

and i'm pretty sure you don't have to shorten.. pretty sure.. but i'm aways off from fitting all that up, as my 700 is completely disassembled at the moment...
 
ya you still have to cut about 1/8" off itll show you everything in the instructions it comes with!just use a die grinder or even just a grinder and slighty grind it! if you can use a tcase brace bracket so then you dont crack the t-case and tranny incase it torques alot!:doah:
 
wow, you guys. this was ridiculously easy. so easy i forgot to take some pictures.

it is now SYE'ed :D
its got a 1350 ubolt yoke on it now. is there anyway i can run a 1350 cv on that yoke?
DSC00553.jpg
 
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