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old eaton corp axle, anything better than regular 90W oil?

R72K5

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old eaton corp axles, guru on these axle in here ?

for a plain old eaton corp non locking diff axle(72 older 3/4 and 1 tons) is there anything better than 90W gear oil that i could put in it, or just leave it at the 90W ?

just wondering if anyone has found out anything alternative/better possibly,

but i doubt it

need to change oil in it also, after the 465 trans, today


im just gonna run a tube of white caulk to seal it back up,
probably just some good ol 90w gear oil im sure
internals look great,
i have no idea if its got a NoSlip in it or not, cant tell how many cross pins are in it for sure, or does it not work like that in the eatons ?

both wheels- (i mean all four) burned them off in the grass the other day, so hum,,, must not be open diff ? i dunno,,

ill have to look again, ive got rear of truck off ground by cherry picker, hum,,

found it to be a 4.57 after counting turns, got roughly 2.25 shaft turns to a tire turn,

and darn eaton ring gears dont have stampings on the outer edge like other axle models do.,. is a stamping code on top of diff casting housing however, right in center near where gasket to housing is at,



thanks
 
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I'd just put regular old 80W90 back in it. You could use syntetic, but with such an old rearend, there's no point.
 
AAM 2 cut Ring and pinion

Crap, I thought I was making a new thread. :doah:


My buddy, hillbilly, picked up his new 4.10 gears for his 67' Chevy p/u.

The shop guy said these are the "new" 2 cut. The amount of surface area on the teeth is the same at the heel as at the toe. More surface area on each tooth.

Anyone else have them?


BTW/ His rig - 67 Chevy shortbed, ZZ4, SM465, ORD doubler, Dana 44 w/ chrome moly axles, CTM u-joints, ARB,and AGR // rear 14BFFw/ Detroit.
PTO winch in front, rear has an old Hickey sidewinder under the bed.

He's lurked here but not really a keyboard kind of guy. Too bad, because he could share a lot of info.
 
<< is there anything better than 90W gear oil that i could put in it, or just leave it at the 90W ?>>

Check this stuff out.

http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/929427.htm

No affinity for moisture, and it won't run off the gears no matter what. According to SAE, the Quantum Blue will absorb 60% heat by volume compared to the best synthetic of about 18% before thermal breakdown.

Tell them what you're doing with the rig, and they'll blend you any weight you want.

Here's an article mentioning their motor oil in the new crate Z06 motor.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0503htp_ls6/

Tom
 
R72K5 said:
i have no idea if its got a NoSlip in it or not, cant tell how many cross pins are in it for sure, or does it not work like that in the eatons ?

both wheels- (i mean all four) burned them off in the grass the other day, so hum,,, must not be open diff ? i dunno,,

ill have to look again, ive got rear of truck off ground by cherry picker, hum,,

found it to be a 4.57 after counting turns, got roughly 2.25 shaft turns to a tire turn,

and darn eaton ring gears dont have stampings on the outer edge like other axle models do.,. is a stamping code on top of diff casting housing however, right in center near where gasket to housing is at,

The No-Spin is easy to ID if you have the chunk out or the diff cover off. As far as I know there was no posi available for these, and there was no gov-lock, so there are only open carriers. just look in one of the little windows on the side of the carrier...if you see gear teeth, its open. if you see smooth metal, its a No-Spin.

Both of my Eaton centersections have the gear ratios stamped into them, on the outer part of the 3rd by the pinion support. The 5.14 one says "7/36", I forget what the 4.57 one is. The stamps are pretty large too.
 
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