Old mounting holes in floor vs. river crossing

[bjr34bass]

I just found out I have some Colorado River "play" opportunities here in AZ. My Blazer has no carpet and several holes in the floor from original seat mounts, console, fuel pump access etc. I wasn't worried about it for traditional trail use, but now I envision fountains of water shooting up at me when river crossing!

I assume I'll just get appropriate sized bolts/nuts and rubber washers and call it a day since I'm not concerned about cosmetics, but anyone have other ideas?

 

[runamok151]

Water is coming in anyway. Leave them open so it drains out easier.

 

[Stomis]

Very true. I wouldn't bother with bolts and washers regardless. Tape the bottom and swirl some silicone on it

 

[Fordum]

A couple of points from someone who used to cross rivers daily just to hunt.
First, like stated, the water is coming in regardless, and the easier it does, the better.
The last thing you want it for the truck to float. It never floats for long, and when it does sink, its usually in a bad place.
When I am crossing a long deep area, I always open the doors to make sure the tires stay on the bottom.
Second, if you are hitting the water fast enough to cause geysers inside, it had better be an area you have driven slowly first. There can be nasty surprises under that water.

Plus, if you are running an automatic, don't go too deep. Water in an auto, soaks into the clutch and brake band linings and causes it to separate.
In a manual, if you keep driving, water usually does not hurt. In my old Jeep, pretty much the whole drivetrain, minus the engine, stayed full of water during the entire hunting season with no noticeable damage.

The trick was, I drove it everyday, and kept the oil/water emulsion mixed. Its when the gears sit for a time, and rust that you start having damage.

Of course, I drained and replaced all fluids at the end of hunting season before it had time to sit up.
Driving back to the shop in two wheel drive would give the front end oil time to separate.
When I pulled the drain plug, I would get the cleanest looking water out. Then a small amount of sludge.

In your case, of course, you might be able to keep the water out to a degree with extended vent tubes and more modern sealing.
But, you need to check all fluids at the end of the day just in case. Overfull indicates water intrusion even if the oil looks clean.

 

[bjr34bass]

Thanks guys. There's a specific area of the river that people play in. I've only been there briefly, but it appears I'll be able to "control" the depth of water I drive in. I hadn't thought about the potential drivetrain issues. Maybe I'll stay on dry land or stay in a foot or less.

It's a slow moving area so I won't get washed downriver at least.

 

[andyblack]

Water will find it's way into your diffs as well. I guarantee it. Just driving through the water and not stopping has never caused me any problems. It's getting stuck and letting the truck sit there in the deep water that's let water get in the auto trans and diffs. Just a warning. Have fun.

 

[runamok151]

Don't forget to run the breather tubes from the axles and trans up higher, too

 

[Fordum]

It depends on the depth. Foot deep is not anywhere near deep enough to cause problems.
Or give much fun....
Usually the front end will get water in it first, due to the open knuckles. The seals in the tubes are not all that good at keeping stuff out.
Of course, the spindle bearing seals are not great either, so they will get wet, and past them, water will get into the wheel bearings.

My old Jeep had the sealed knuckles with 90W gear lube, so they usually stayed fairly dry as did the wheel bearings.
But my '79 F150 suffered from lots of water in the wheel bearings and spindle bearings.
But, I bought one of those spindle greaser adapters, and it made a huge difference.
I expected it to help with the spindle bearings, and it did. But it made the biggest difference with keeping water out of the wheel bearings.
Basically, you removed the hub, screwed the adapter onto the spindle tube, and started pumping.
Took a lot of grease the first time.
It filled the space between the axle stub and the spindle with grease, and forced it out through the spindle bearings.

Not only did that repack the spindle bearings with fresh grease, but the grease in the spindle tube sealed it and prevented water from coming in through the spindle bearing seal and running down into the hub and from there into the wheel bearings.

As far as your situation, you need to pick a go/nogo point as to depth. With my old Jeep, it was my navel as I sat in the driver's seat.
When the water reached my navel, I had a decision to make. If it was going to get deeper, I better back out.
If I could see shallower water, I could ease forward. I knew that somewhere between my navel and my nipples the water would go in the top of the carb, so I always stopped at the navel.

At night, I usually stopped when my headlights went under and it got too dark to see the water in front.
That was below maximum daylight depth, but safer. However, if I had someone with me, I had a calibrated pole.
They could lay on the hood, and probe the depth ahead of the Jeep as we went.

Today, with my electronics training, and the equipment available now, I would have a electronic depth finder with a floating sensor mounted in front to give a readout as I went.