CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ONE BIG JIMMY "Everything In TX Is Bigger!"

I love the progress on this beast! Also I need to go visit JTR.com and grab those adapters. I am also running the 6.2L radiator and my hose adapters are pretty jank.
 
Got the new input shaft in for the 241c so it will match up to the 4l80E

2yvetyge.jpg


byqa8a7u.jpg


6egude3a.jpg
 
Never taken a NP241 apart but here we go!

I'm pretty darn mechanical so why not!

tyjeme4a.jpg


age4u7yr.jpg


buve3uny.jpg


I will let y'all know how it all works out!
 
You probably know this but there is a snap ring behind the input seal that holds the gear in place above the bearing. Seal must be removed to reach it. Also, be sure the gear has the caged bearing and cup plug in place, if not, these can be carefully removed from the original gear and transferred.
 
Well got it torn down the rest of the way and put the new input shaft in.
No big deal!
Just need a new input bearing now and I will get it all back together and cleaned up.
I have the 24mm bearing and I need the 16mm bearing to make the new shaft work.
Will be on the hunt for that tomorrow.

The bonus was after inspection all the seals and chain and even the nylon tabs are all brand new!
Looks like I got a great deal on the tcase for $75 bucks at the local yard.
ene7uqy7.jpg


penyduna.jpg


zysene2u.jpg


ygu7epe9.jpg
 
Tomorrow if I can find the bearing I will post the part numbers and pics for both thicknesses for visual and number references
 
Bearing info!
Ok the factory 27 spline input shaft on the np241c uses the BD50-8 which is a 50mm id x 80mm od x 24mm thick bearing
The 32 spline input shaft for the np241 uses a 6010n bearing which is the same id and od but a 16mm thick bearing here are some pics


e5egy3yr.jpg


6ydepyqu.jpg
 
Dirty dingo motor mounts and the timing cover and oil pan installed

eba9apem.jpg


ege3uhyz.jpg


eba7ytu8.jpg


a9a8azes.jpg
 
More of the dingo motor mounts but with the chevy clam shell mounts attached.

e7uhuga3.jpg


bytenyde.jpg
 
Got to love long weekends!!
Got the engine and trans in
The dingo mounts allowed me to move the engine up and I was able to use the original holes for the trans crossmember. I love it when a plan come together!
7a9e8yty.jpg


ysujere8.jpg


u5u2anyd.jpg


da8umu4u.jpg


jy9anube.jpg
 
Did I already complain about the trans crossmember "spacer" thing? Don't want to beat a dead horse.

Also, I highly recommend DIY4x comp motor mounts. I have them and they are wonderful. Changing them now would be easy. :waytogo: Unless I already said than and you have already told me other plans :doah::haha:

That powdercoat is so damn sexy btw.
 
I hate the trans crossmember spacing as well! Looking into other options but I needed to get that damn thing sitting in the chassis. It was a huge moral booster for me!

I have been on the fence about the motor mounts from DIY
I'm not scared to buy their stuff as you can see they make a great product from what I have seen
Just not to sold yet on the mounts
 
Does anybody have any ideas for the trans crossmember spacer between the frame and the crossmember instead of the bolts with spacers. Pictures would be nice and the obvious 1 piece spacer is good as well but show me how you did it with a factory crossmember.
 
Ok I decided to put the ls required fuel pump upgrade in today.
I went with the airtex pump like I stated before in my thread.
it installed perfect!
The kit came with new seals and hoses and clamps the only thing it did not come with was a fuel filter sock for the end of the pump. They are cheap but I had already put a new one on not that long ago before the build.
eduma8ab.jpg


a5a7upyr.jpg


ame8aryg.jpg


jytapa5y.jpg

Old seals need to be replaced for sure!

4etygu7u.jpg


emuzubu7.jpg


pa4a7e7u.jpg
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom