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ONE BIG JIMMY "Everything In TX Is Bigger!"

Overview Gallery Discussion
its roughly sitting about 2" lower than intended
Due to the Cucv frame extensions and I'm wanting to keep that bumper as well. It was pure accident that it came out below the bumper but I like it that way.
This will only work if you are running a synthetic rope
If it's a cable winch the roller fairlead will not work with what I have done.
Tna makes it to sit a little higher and a little further forward than what I have done.

36/13.50R16.5 is the tire size
 
I was thinking about this build the other day and couldn't remember what one it was.
So I now read through the whole thing. Nice work.

So it looks like you had all the cucv stuff chromed? But now you poweroated everything black? Maybe I missed something there?

Sorry, but I was really liking the chrome. No one really does that.
 
Thanks!
I did end up coating all the trim satin black
Chrome looked good.
I had it all on it before I decided to do a total rebuild but the project took a turn in design and every piece of chrome went satin
 
Had a little dilemma I think I have figured out now.
So since I have a 6.2 diesel radiator in this thing for the extra cooling capacity.
I wanted to try to keep the oil cooler crossover lines from the CUCV.
Those of you not familiar with the setup a CUCV has two oil lines that come from the block on the drivers side and then cross over on the engine side of the radiator to the passenger side with 2 lines that hook into the radiator.

Well with that being said Im also using AN braided lines. I was trying to find a fitting that would go from the o-ring npt style fitting on the lines to an AN10 fitting. Well there is no such fitting made so I had to Punt and figure it out.

Smiley's racing helped me out! We decided to use an aluminum AN10 bung and weld it to the line like a AC hose.

Now it's AN10 to AN10 no problems now! I hope!!

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Well been in hiding for awhile
Working quietly in the background gathering parts and information.
Moved a month ago and that has set me back again
Think about naming the thread SLOW AS CHRISTMAS BUILD IN TX

I will post some pics shortly of an idea I had on changing the 4wd shifter
 
NTXJIMMY said:
Well been in hiding for awhile
Working quietly in the background gathering parts and information.
Moved a month ago and that has set me back again
Think about naming the thread SLOW AS CHRISTMAS BUILD IN TX

I will post some pics shortly of an idea I had on changing the 4wd shifter
Click to expand...
How did the oil cooler lines come out? Did you get them installed?
 
Not yet
Going to start on those next week probably around Tuesday
I will update pics
 
Ok
I had and was always a fan of the 89-98 floor shifter for 4wd
Plus it put the shifter closer to you. BONUS!

So this is what I was thinking since it is a driver side drop setup I will use the original as a servo And install the newer one then use a connecting rod between the two.

I will have to remove the original shifter and grind the trim ring mounting tabs off and make a plate to cover the original shifter but still accessible if I needed to repair.

Then install the new shifter on the driver side of the trans tunnel and use a rod to connect.
The shift patterns will not match on the selector but I’m thinking I will have a new piece of plastic cut and a decal or screen print the new pattern and should be good to go

Here is a sneak peak

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I’m having issues with figuring out how I want to mount my oil and trans coolers
I used to make mounting brackets when I was building race cars a long time ago. But not sold on them looking like a factory style install.

They are a setrab style cooler

Any suggestions ??
 
Decided to get 2 temp sensors for the sake of sanity
I purchased the original temp sensor for the LQ4 and I also picked up the 86 sensor.
The 86 sensor is much larger in diameter than the 2001 sensor so I took it to a local machine shop and had the diameter turned down and rethreaded so it will screw into the LQ4 block.

I know that there are different ways of doing this but I decided to go this route. I’m planing on making a separate harness for the sensors that feed the factory gauges.

I have seen and talked to several people that have done it this way and seems to work well.

Just makes the cost of the 86 sensor a little pricey after the machine shop toook it down to the right size.

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NTXJIMMY said:
Decided to get 2 temp sensors for the sake of sanity
I purchased the original temp sensor for the LQ4 and I also picked up the 86 sensor.
The 86 sensor is much larger in diameter than the 2001 sensor so I took it to a local machine shop and had the diameter turned down and rethreaded so it will screw into the LQ4 block.

I know that there are different ways of doing this but I decided to go this route. I’m planing on making a separate harness for the sensors that feed the factory gauges.

I have seen and talked to several people that have done it this way and seems to work well.

Just makes the cost of the 86 sensor a little pricey after the machine shop toook it down to the right size.

View attachment 251628
Click to expand...
Isn’t there a Camaro dual element temp sensor out there that will work with our older gauges?

Check this part number...
wt5121

Rob
 
Yes there is from what I have heard.
Have not seen or seen it work personally but I have heard of it.

On my next build I will probably try it out
 
Been a little busy at work
But have been working on the ride here or there when I can
Winch cradle is coming along did a little more to it last week with mounting tabs
Pics coming soon
Also started wiring harness

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so I have a silly question only cuz I don't know... I see people swappin LS or 8.1's in and they say rework the harness... why cant you just take what is there and stick it in? in the reprogramming, stuff will be disabled... you cant have the wires there? is it just to cleanup and have less wires? hopefully before I kick the bucket I throw an 8.1L in and would of asked this question then but hey why not now.. hah
 
On my harness I am deleting some of the sensors and re routing to fit my particular setup.
Also you have to be able to wire it up to a 3 wire system so it gets power from constant battery and ignition sources and of course ground. Doing this requires you to get into the harness
Best place to see how this is done LT1swap.com
 
understood.. few months back I watched a ton of videos on youtube and people lay out the harness.. they are like.. well we are going to do the egr delete, and this delete, and this.. then they lay the wires out, take harness apart and remove those wires. I'm just curious if you were to just "Disable" some of these with a reprogram... why bother removing wires, if you don't care about cleaning it up?
 
True you can leave them if you want to and disable them.
Mine is more for routing things better and cleaning up for my needs
 
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