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One step foward then 5 steps back... then a swift kick in the pants

Chevy305

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So if you have been paying attention to my build thread then you would know I just put in a brand new wiring harness and custom gauges. Which was a big undertaking and I am really happy with how it turned out, but now that I did that, 5 more things screw up. It never ends...

Lets see, my t-case is stuck in 4wd, my passengerside hub got water in it and completely toasted the wheel bearings and somehow caused the 2 lock nuts to grenade themselves, passengerside axel ujoint is toast, my front driveshaft slip joint is so slopped that it gives me crazy vibes, also now out of nowhere my brake pedal is going right to the floor.

So it looks like I am now going to need a new t-case, frontdrive shaft, wheel bearings, spindle, axel ujoint, lock nuts, and a master cylinder. :mad:

Rant off


So as it sits now i can't get the hub off. There are little cunks of the locknuts and the bearings that have embedded themselves into the spindle and the bearing can't slide over them. Anyone have any ideas?

Also As for the t-case which is a 208. The foward output is aways directly connected to the rear output no matter where the shifter is. Its not poping out of gear, in fact the shifter and linkage are all working smoothly. I think something broke inside it and now its toast. Opinions?
 
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So if you have been paying attention to my build thread then you would know I just put in a brand new wiring harness and custom gauges. Which was a big undertaking and I am really happy with how it turned out, but now that I did that, 5 more things screw up. It never ends...

Lets see, my t-case is stuck in 4wd, my passengerside hub got water in it and completely toasted the wheel bearings and somehow caused the 2 lock nuts to grenade themselves, passengerside axel ujoint is toast, my front driveshaft slip joint is so slopped that it gives me crazy vibes, also now out of nowhere my brake pedal is going right to the floor.

So it looks like I am now going to need a new t-case, frontdrive shaft, wheel bearings, spindle, axel ujoint, lock nuts, and a master cylinder. :mad:

Rant off


So as it sits now i can't get the hub off. There are little cunks of the locknuts and the bearings that have embedded themselves into the spindle and the bearing can't slide over them. Anyone have any ideas?

Also As for the t-case which is a 208. The foward output is aways directly connected to the rear output no matter where the shifter is. Its not poping out of gear, in fact the shifter and linkage are all working smoothly. I think something broke inside it and now its toast. Opinions?

If you have the patience, the 208 is easy to work on, if it's small part that broke or wore out I can sell you the parts cheap.
If not there good tcases out there for sale, too bad you are too far I have a 32 spline 208 sitting here for sale.
Shipping the whole thing might not make it such a good deal though.
The outers on your axle are messed up so just do whatever you need to do to get them off.
Use a cutting wheel, a chisel, what ever it takes, parts are cheap for that, assuming you have a D44 or 10 b?
I hope it's not a D60, that would be more expensive :eek1:
If it's the D44 or 10 b I have those parts I will sell you cheap.
Driveshaft, I need measurements, I should have all sizes for the front assuming it is the front?
 
I have a new drive shaft on the way. But I will need a new spindle without a doubt.
 
I have a new drive shaft on the way. But I will need a new spindle without a doubt.

I have a few sets of big bearing spindles, assuming it's what you have, i will sell you one with the licking nuts for $20 plus shipping which should be $10 Flat rate box.
If you need anything else we can also combine shipping.
Take your time and find out what you need, I also have Spice Ujoints, as well as stub shafts if yours is bad.
If you need anything chances are I have it if it's stock 1/2 or 3/4 ton chevy.
 
I have a few sets of big bearing spindles, assuming it's what you have, i will sell you one with the licking nuts for $20 plus shipping which should be $10 Flat rate box.
If you need anything else we can also combine shipping.
Take your time and find out what you need, I also have Spice Ujoints, as well as stub shafts if yours is bad.
If you need anything chances are I have it if it's stock 1/2 or 3/4 ton chevy.

What are you a junk yard or something? ;)

But ya I will need a spindle and the set of lock nuts for sure for my 10bolt. And new wheel bearings too if you have them.

As it looks now I may need the whole hub too, because as it looks now the only way I can get this thing off is too cut it off. Oh and when I removed the caliper the hard brake line snapped off in my hands... :mad::mad::mad:
 
What are you a junk yard or something? ;)

But ya I will need a spindle and the set of lock nuts for sure for my 10bolt. And new wheel bearings too if you have them.

As it looks now I may need the whole hub too, because as it looks now the only way I can get this thing off is too cut it off. Oh and when I removed the caliper the hard brake line snapped off in my hands... :mad::mad::mad:

Well a mini junk yard, I parted about 12 trucks before I got married and now I am just liquidating :D
I still have a few trucks that run and a couple of project trucks along with some classic cars.:rolleyes:
I have brake lines, and I have the hubs with bearings.
Do you want a complete assembly?
hub, spindle, bearings.
I am going to do it without the rotor, I am sure you rotor can be swapped and you save on shipping.
We are talking 6 lug though right?
The hard line that connects to the rubber line that goes to the calipers right?
 
welcome to the never ending building of your project.:wink1:

i took the motor out of my k5 about a year ago this month,

built the new motor,cleaned up the engine bay, installed gauges and other stuff and thought i was done and could drive it.

since then i have done

Axle U joints
Steering stabilizer
Ball joints
Power steering pump
t case rear seal
hard brake lines in rear
diy shackle flip
4inch lift
locker
tuning of the motor
clutch
shocks
fuel gauge wiring
new spring perches
carb
msd box
brakes
wheel cylinders

and more and more and more, it went from a simple motor swap to finding more and more and more things wrong and new upgrades to the point the k5 has only been driven 5 miles in over a year and still isnt finished.

should have never pulled the motor :doah:everything was fine til i
did that :haha:
 
assuming it's what you have, i will sell you one with the licking nuts for $20 plus shipping which should be $10 Flat rate box.
If you need anything else we can also combine shipping.
Take your time and find out what you need

I'm sorry but i read this and immediately laughed out loud, it's probably not that funny but i've had a long day...:rotfl:
 
Ok so here's another kick in the pants...

Driving back to school in my s10 I lose 5th gear on the highway. I still had 4th so I made it to my exit in 4th. At the end of the ramp a stop light. as soon as i clutch in BANG lose all gears.

I just cant win now i have both my trucks out of comission. The big one at home and the little one towed to my school.
 

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