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OPINONS PLZ!! 35spline, cage, shackles....

oneofthefewbmx

oneofthefewbmx

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Copperas Cove, TX
ok guys...im getting ready for Las Cruces and need opinions on what i need to fix/replace/upgrade/add to my rig before i go....id like to keep it to AROUND 800 bucks....here are the options, feel free to pick and choose.....


1. i broke ONE locking hub sooo.....

$140---Mile Marker locking hubs (i plan on goin rockwells in the near future so this will just get me by)

OR

$385---35 slpine stub shafts w/ new u-joints and locking hubs (this will give me spare 30 spline stub shafts with one spare 30spl locking hub)




2. my ass end doesnt flex much due to the poor shackle angle and stock short shackle soooo....

$220---Revolver shackles (WITH limiting strap in the middle to eliminate "unloading")

OR

$90---7" DIY4x shackle (al well as move hanger forward some)





3. ive came close to rolling my **** a couple times and i reallllly want a cage sooo....

$345---10pt roll cage from jegs.com



4. my seatbelts are **** and the driverside doesnt even have a shoulder strap :eek1: sooo.....

$85---5 point harnesses with cam-lock





again, i would like to do as many of these as possible but keep it AROUND 800 bucks or so....i need ur guys' help......
 
I don't know how soon you are going to Rock's but 30 spline outers plus 44's probably won't last long. Plus the 35 spline stuff should have a pretty good resale value.

Get the regular 7" shackles.

Other than that, get the cage and harnesses.
 
38377k5 said:
I don't know how soon you are going to Rock's but 30 spline outers plus 44's probably won't last long. Plus the 35 spline stuff should have a pretty good resale value.

Get the regular 7" shackles.

Other than that, get the cage and harnesses.
Click to expand...


i was hoping someone would say cage and harness :D .....i really wasnt sure about the shackles and the hubs but if you guys think the stock 30 splines wont hold up to the 44s then i guess ill do that too...id hate to get all the way to las cruces just to break an axleshaft :mad: (and not have a spare)....i guess noone believes in revolver shackles anymore?

thanks guys!! :D
 
oneofthefewbmx said:
ok guys...im getting ready for Las Cruces and need opinions on what i need to fix/replace/upgrade/add to my rig before i go....id like to keep it to AROUND 800 bucks....here are the options, feel free to pick and choose.....


1. i broke ONE locking hub sooo.....

$140---Mile Marker locking hubs (i plan on goin rockwells in the near future so this will just get me by)

OR

$385---35 slpine stub shafts w/ new u-joints and locking hubs (this will give me spare 30 spline stub shafts with one spare 30spl locking hub)

I actually vote neither. If you are going to go to rocks soon anyway, don't spend the money on the 35 spline stuff. If this is a trail only rig, consider slugs. Cheaper, tougher. Just drag along a couple of junkyard outer spares.


2. my ass end doesnt flex much due to the poor shackle angle and stock short shackle soooo....

$220---Revolver shackles (WITH limiting strap in the middle to eliminate "unloading")

No.

OR

$90---7" DIY4x shackle (al well as move hanger forward some)

Yes. Call Kert and get some advice. He will steer you right.


3. ive came close to rolling my **** a couple times and i reallllly want a cage sooo....

$345---10pt roll cage from jegs.com

Find someone reputable locally to make you a real cage. The cost shouldn't be much different by the time you ship that Jeg's unit.

4. my seatbelts are **** and the driverside doesnt even have a shoulder strap :eek1: sooo.....

$85---5 point harnesses with cam-lock

Yes. Tied to a real cage.



again, i would like to do as many of these as possible but keep it AROUND 800 bucks or so....i need ur guys' help......
Click to expand...

see above in blue.
 
oneofthefewbmx said:
i was hoping someone would say cage and harness :D .....i really wasnt sure about the shackles and the hubs but if you guys think the stock 30 splines wont hold up to the 44s then i guess ill do that too...id hate to get all the way to las cruces just to break an axleshaft :mad: (and not have a spare)....i guess noone believes in revolver shackles anymore?

thanks guys!! :D
Click to expand...

I did this to my 30 spline outer and warn hub (the hub is broken too) with 37" MT/R's, it didn't take all that much to break it.

IMG_0109.jpg



Honestly I fear for my inner shafts (non-neckdown 35 spline Spicers) now with 42's. Don't forget that broken shafts or broken hubs have a tendency to take Detroits with them.

If you go with 35 spline stuff get drive flanges instead of hubs (35 spline hubs aren't very strong).
 
hmm... :eek1: looks to me like im going with 35 spline outers....i would go with drive flanges BUT i still drive this thing on the road, and with the detroit and my janky ass front driveshaft i dont think that would work out well....

about the cage....is there a reason to have someone around here build it (i only know one guy, not very reputable either) versus getting it from jegs and having my neigbor (excellent welder, welds for a living) weld it togther? i mean have you guys had bad experiences with jegs' cages or what :confused: ? it seems to me like the only thing i am paying for is pre-bent tube?

oh, and i believe im settled on DIY4x shackles, and 5 pt. harnesses....

thanks again
 
oneofthefewbmx said:
hmm... :eek1: looks to me like im going with 35 spline outers....i would go with drive flanges BUT i still drive this thing on the road, and with the detroit and my janky ass front driveshaft i dont think that would work out well....

about the cage....is there a reason to have someone around here build it (i only know one guy, not very reputable either) versus getting it from jegs and having my neigbor (excellent welder, welds for a living) weld it togther? i mean have you guys had bad experiences with jegs' cages or what :confused: ? it seems to me like the only thing i am paying for is pre-bent tube?

oh, and i believe im settled on DIY4x shackles, and 5 pt. harnesses....

thanks again
Click to expand...


Drive flanges with a detroit up front is ok, the locker will unlock as long as there isn't power going to it. If your front driveshaft is questionable then maybe drive flanges aren't a good idea.
 
38377k5 said:
Drive flanges with a detroit up front is ok, the locker will unlock as long as there isn't power going to it. If your front driveshaft is questionable then maybe drive flanges aren't a good idea.
Click to expand...


well the driveshaft isnt questionable....its just that the "ball and socket" joint in the double cardon is a little wore out and it just makes a ****load of noise when it turns, and its really annoying and kinda embarrasing :crazy: ......BUT if i get 35 spline upgrades then i can use the old shafts to make a new driveshaft with :rolleyes: .....
 
shipping on the cage is killer. the peices are big. I live close enough to S&W that I picked mine up. its OK but not anywhere as nice as something made specifically for you.

A cage should be at the top of your list. everything else you listed is cheaper and can be had at anytime. if you got $800 now find someone reputable to build you one. do some searching and I am sure you will find someone local.

post up in the wanted section of the classifieds. somebody has either a single hub, or 30 splines shafts they will sell you cheap. that will get through until you upgrade to rocks or have another big chunk of money to upgrade to 35 spline.

$90 is a lot of money to pay for something you might find used. I got a set out of the classified here for a lot less.

search Ebay and craiglist for outdated harnesses. there is usually nothing wrong with them except they are to old for drag racing.

The deals are out there. you just need to look for them.
 
gmc4cw said:
shipping on the cage is killer. the peices are big. I live close enough to S&W that I picked mine up. its OK but not anywhere as nice as something made specifically for you.

A cage should be at the top of your list. everything else you listed is cheaper and can be had at anytime. if you got $800 now find someone reputable to build you one. do some searching and I am sure you will find someone local.

post up in the wanted section of the classifieds. somebody has either a single hub, or 30 splines shafts they will sell you cheap. that will get through until you upgrade to rocks or have another big chunk of money to upgrade to 35 spline.

$90 is a lot of money to pay for something you might find used. I got a set out of the classified here for a lot less.

search Ebay and craiglist for outdated harnesses. there is usually nothing wrong with them except they are to old for drag racing.

The deals are out there. you just need to look for them.
Click to expand...


the price i got on the cage was 385 shipped.....ill check around to see if i can get one built for around that price but im not sure i can beat that...thanks for the link to the harness, thats almost was i was planning on buying....ill check around for a cheaper shackle (or just have my neighbor make some for a case of beer)....im still really confused on hubs tho.....turns out i need new electric fans to cool this thing and that is going to kinda run into my budget.....i may end up having to just get new locking hubs and go easy on my **** the whole trip if i cant come up with some cheap spare shafts.....:(
 
$385 shipped is decent, but you still need to put it in. there is an easy 2+ days of work installing it if you do it from start to finish. some of the peices are notched, some are not, the ones that are notched its on one end and the other end is left long so you can cut it to fit your truck.
 
gmc4cw said:
$385 shipped is decent, but you still need to put it in. there is an easy 2+ days of work installing it if you do it from start to finish. some of the peices are notched, some are not, the ones that are notched its on one end and the other end is left long so you can cut it to fit your truck.
Click to expand...


yea thats wat i read....while were on the subject, what is the easiest/best way to get it in there? i mean can i weld/paint most if it outside the truck then finish up inside or does it all need to be welded inside?? any help/advice is appreciated...ill learn from your guys' mistakes :D
 
depends on how you attach it to the frame. its supposed to go through the floor and weld solid to the frame. I am bolting mine in and sandwiching the floor with 1/4" plates. and then connecting it to the frame. but even doing it that way there is no way I could slip it out of the cab in one peice. especially once you weld the rear bars on. they give you two bars that run from the main hoop back to the floor/frame. if you are putting it all in a blazer then you could probably pull it out. but in a regular cab there is no way.
 
gmc4cw said:
depends on how you attach it to the frame. its supposed to go through the floor and weld solid to the frame. I am bolting mine in and sandwiching the floor with 1/4" plates. and then connecting it to the frame. but even doing it that way there is no way I could slip it out of the cab in one peice. especially once you weld the rear bars on. they give you two bars that run from the main hoop back to the floor/frame. if you are putting it all in a blazer then you could probably pull it out. but in a regular cab there is no way.
Click to expand...


hmm....i will probably sandwich it as well....i guess i will have to weld it inside the cab :( ....mabey put a piece of cardboard or sheet metal behind to keep the splatter off the inside of the cab?? hm....any ideas how to keep it neat?
 
Watch out for weld splatter on the glass. I've been told it shatters.

Mike
 
remove the interior. no chance of burning anything if its bare metal. I fit up the back hoop and tacked the crossbar, then pulled it out and welded it up. reinstalled it, fit the braces that go from the intersection of the crossbar and hoop to the floor. pulled it back out and welded them in solid along with all the plates that sandwich the frame.

if you then fit and tack the entire thing together you can break the tacks for the rear stabilizers. break the tacks for the halo to the main hoop. weld the halo to the front legs ond the dash bar. weld the door bars to the main hoop. put both peices back in and do you final welding.

then other then tacks the welds you are doing in the cab are the halo to the main hoop, the rear stabilizer bars to the main hoop and the door bars to the front legs.

then just figure out what you are gonna do for a rear window and you are set. :doah:I am not running one since its a trail only truck.
 
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