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options I want options

blazinzuk

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Okay so making a trip to Moab later this year, really going to try to get a trailer, I mean really try. So if the trailer doesn't work out.............. flat tow.

I know lets assume that I can get some type of controller that will apply the brakes on my blazer. lets talk about that a bit ( I really don't want to drive it down there) The tow rig will be a 73 C&C truck, I think the wheelbase is 165", the tow rig weighs 5800 lbs ( thats what the scales at the metal scrap yard said) I have never weighed my blazer. Is that gonna be a situation I can put up with?

I will build the tow bar and can put a new reciver hitch anywhere from almost on the ground ( where it is now) to nearly 4 ft in the air on the tow rig. So if I am forced into this I want to make it the best possible situation.

Other option tow it with a car dolly. Yes? No?

I really wish I could just buy a trailer but that isn't going to happen, I hopefully will have enough money to rent one but I just want to be prepared. Like I said if I drive it, I will be running 235 85s with 4.56 gears and an auto, that won't be that bad I guess

So basically I am looking for criticisms, ideas, suggestions, someone willing to take monthly payments of $30 a month for the rest of my mortal life for a trailer. Give me ideas. I want options mister
 
I would not recommend flat-towing unless you at least had some way to actuate the brakes on the Blazer. They make stuff like this:
http://www.brakebuddy.com/Products/BrakeBuddy-Vantage
but they are not cheap.

The main trouble is that a Blazer weighs just about as much as your towrig, so you are basically doubling the weight you are trying to stop with the already marginal (by today's standards) brakes on the '73.
 
I would not recommend flat-towing unless you at least had some way to actuate the brakes on the Blazer. They make stuff like this:
http://www.brakebuddy.com/Products/BrakeBuddy-Vantage
but they are not cheap.

The main trouble is that a Blazer weighs just about as much as your towrig, so you are basically doubling the weight you are trying to stop with the already marginal (by today's standards) brakes on the '73.

I mentioned that I would so some type of brake controller I know I can do something cheaper than brand new.

Also I really don't think my brakes on my 73 are marginal. They stopped a 12000 lb trailer pretty darn good with no trailer brakes (short tow of course)
 
One thing about flat towing that shocked me as to how big of a differnce it can make,

height of the attachment points on both vehicles. The tow bar needs to be flat. Or straight in line from one to the other. At an angle up or down will cause you grief.
 
One thing about flat towing that shocked me as to how big of a differnce it can make,

height of the attachment points on both vehicles. The tow bar needs to be flat. Or straight in line from one to the other. At an angle up or down will cause you grief.

***I would NOT recommend flattowing a K5 over any long distance without some sort of legitimate braking device on the K5***

I did it but now that I have a trailer I figured out how wrong I was for doing it.

A friend of mine & myself have both flattowed our K5s. I would recommmend a little down angle on the bar myself after watching him tow his K5 with a 84 Chevy K20. With the bar flat the K5 would try and jackknife him when he cornered. With the bar going slightly down toward the towrig the blazer would actually add tongue weight to the towrig which helped keep it from jackknifing in corners.

I never had a problem with that, but my bar angle was always down, and my truck is heavier with a longer wheelbase then his.

With a good braking device though the above is probably a non-issue. We both towed without brakes on the K5's. I would personally recommend finding a trailer. They are not that expensive used. Even a 7K trailer is sufficiently better then flat towing. The trailer will technically be overloaded but it is still a much better option then flat towing.

Harley
 
Another real big problem with flat towing a trail machine is trying to get it home after a bad weekend of breakage. The cost of finding/building special parts in the middle of nowhere can come close if not exceed the cost of buying a trailer. That's not to mention the stress of chasing/ finding/ wrenching in some parking lot.
 
Another real big problem with flat towing a trail machine is trying to get it home after a bad weekend of breakage. The cost of finding/building special parts in the middle of nowhere can come close if not exceed the cost of buying a trailer. That's not to mention the stress of chasing/ finding/ wrenching in some parking lot.

When I go on long trips I am pretty carefull, I really hope I can find a trailer or at least rent one. Although I have driven home broken before it sucks but can be done.
 

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