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options on 1984 GMC jimmy

looked in the glove box

Ok. So i looked in the glove box. Typed the vin in the glove box in to gmc vin decoder and it said invalid vin? the steering column looks like it used to be an automatic?
 
Look up the individual RPO codes, not just the vin.
They will tell you every option the truck came with from the factory right down to gear ratios.
 
If you are wondering if what you've described is original the answer is not most of it. It may have been a 6.2/4spd but more likely a 6.2/auto. The NP205 and full-floating rear are definitely not original. Check out the SPID for all RPOs
 
Ok. In the glove box is only the vin no rpo codes that I can see.

I bought it 2 weeks ago and it has been sitting for that time, and now there is no fuel to the injectors. Cracked injector #one and cranked for a while. no fuel. I want to pull the return line on the injector pump and add compressed air, but how many PSI? And I think I know which is the return but do I inject into the hose or the fitting? So many different ways outlined online.

I know nothing about the 6.2. Is there a owners manual you would recommend for the 1984 6.2?

My 7.3IDI (1992 ford centurion) ran out of fuel and I cracked an injector and it started in about 15 seconds. I like my 7.3 so much I wanted an older gmc diesel jimmy as a rock crawler project.

New jimmy needs love and I have lots to learn. Thank you for the help.
 
don't think i have a cracked line but maybe.

I removed the fuel cap.
loosened the screw on top of the fuel filter
remove pink wire from top of ip
crank for about 10 seconds until clear fuel
close screw
return cap
replace wire and crank for 15 second increments for about 10 times or until the battery is dead.

cracked four of the injectors and cranked for just a few seconds and there was fuel on top of all of them.

Looks like the mechanical pump is working, and the injector pump is working.

Any thoughts?
 
Glow plugs must work to start a 6.2,even if its warm out,at least to get it going the first start of the day anyway...if your getting fuel to the cylinders and smoke at the tailpipe after cranking,its probably the glow plugs not getting things hot enough to fire off...sounds like your getting enough fuel..

See if 12V gets to the glow plugs with the key on--if it has been converted to a manual push button,hold the button on and use a test lamp to see if power is getting to the glow plug wires..

You can test the glow plugs by unplugging the wires from them and put a test lamp between the positive battery terminal and the glow plug terminal--the light should light up if its good..or you can remove them and hook jumper cables to the terminal and the hex portion and see if they turn red when you apply 12V..

Starting fluid should be avoided,but if you dare,you can try using some ,but do not activate the glow plugs before using any,disable them by taking the small wire off the glow plug relay so it cant energize them..its best to have someone crank the engine over at full tilt before spraying it in the intake--doing it alone by dumping some in the intake,then cranking it,usually results in problems,the starter drive or nose can suffer damage,and the engine will tend to bind and kick back ,which is hard on the rods and pistons..

I had to use ether to get my 6.2 started the first time,after that I worked the bugs out of the glow plugs and fuel system and its been OK since..I have had a few issues with rusty metal fuel lines letting air sneak in,I replaced them all with copper..also had a few rubber hoses crack at the hose clamps and let it get airbound also twice..
 
awesome post thank you! I'm getting smoke out the back. How long should i hold the push button down? Trying this in the morning.
 
I hold the manual glow plug button on for about 10 seconds,I use the seat belt buzzer as a timer...if one cycle fails to start it you'll need to repeat it again..

I am using AC # 60G glow plugs,which are self limiting,unlike the original #9G that can overheat and swell up or break if left "on" too long...the part number should be stamped on the glow plug near the threads--if they are not #60G 's I'd avoid cycling the glow plugs for too long or they may swell up and be hard to remove,or burn out and go dead and that'll make it harder to get started..
You can only have one or two dead glow plugs and have starting issues..one of my trucks only has 7 out of 8 working because I cant get one original one out without it breaking the tip off,and I'm not about to tempt fate by trying--its started OK 90% of the time till this past winter,which was record cold..
 
There is alot of stuff out there about the 6.2

Some love em and some hate them not like the 7.3 but they are good for what they are a light duty fuel maximizer. A great resource for 6.2 stuff is the 6.2 section over on dieselplace. I have learned a ton over there. Also on that site you will see people making some pretty decent power out of these old detroits.

As otheres have mentioned glow plugs are key. I have owned 4 6.2's and the only one I have had that will start with out glows is the 14,000 orginal mile once in my truck now. All the others need work to the glow plug system. I am also a big fan of the manual glow plug conversion as it gives more controll over the system.

The 60G's are a great GP and what I am currently running in my truck. I also like the Bosch Durterms and run them in all my diesel Benz's. Aviod Autolight plugs (had a few swell or burn out fast).

Mostlikley your truck came factory with a 6.2, 700r4 automatic overdrive,np208, 10 bolt axles with a gear ratio between 3:08 and 3:73. The sm465 is a nice trans behind a 6.2 because it alows you to get all of the 135Hp those motors put out stock. Overdrive is a real nice thing to have which is why alot of guys running highway with 6.2's run nv3500 or nv4500 if manual or an overdrive automatic.

Looks like a cool rig. Have fun with it. Also as mentioned air leaks can be a big issue on the 6.2 comon spots for leaks are at the fuel filter body (best fix is to switch to a spin on style. A great way to see if air is your problem is to replace the fuel ruturn loop on the Ip with tygon so you can spot air bubbles and better isolate the leak.
 
I love the truck already. Was running when I got it and now can't get it started. I checked the glow plugs power on. Checked the voltage on the battery and they have that voltage across them. So I think the glow plugs are good?
 
You need to ohm them out. Also do you only have one battery?? 1 can work but two are much better.
 
I have two batteries. I checked and I think I have 2 or 3 bad glow plugs so ordered all 8! Started on the twin stick 205. The adapter between the 205 and 465 was broke and the guy did not want to fix. So I got a good deal. Waiting for the full seal and gasket kit before I install the new adapter.
 
The adapter between the np205 and the sm465 broke. A friend had a spare and i have had a hard time finding the replacement seal locally. The part number on the seal is 3968050 national one on ebay for 12.99, but I was hoping to pick one up locally. Any one know the autozone or napa part number.

Auto zone said they have no way to look a part up if they don't have a vehical year, model... since the 465 and the 205 are most likely not stock makes me think i should go to napa?

Pulled the steering wheel and tightened the three torx heads at the base. Way better.
 
Tell them it's a 1979 K10 with a 350 and air conditioning.

Martin
 
how do I know if i have course or fine thread injectors?

Nate
 
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