Would like to get some input from people who ether have or have experinced ether of the set ups. Iv been doing alot of resurch on the two and am completely torn which way i want to go when the time comes. Each seems to have its advantage/disadvantage both with instal and performance Currently I have a rough country 6 inch lift, all spring in the front and 2 inch lift springs with 4 inch blocks in the rear from the p.o. I really dislike having blacks that big in the rear (yes i plan on shackle fliping the rear in place of the blocks) and the flex and what not is crap, even on the littlest amount it seems like there's more body flex then suspension flex. The idea suspension wise is to have the truck be able to go where ever I want, on the street or dirt doesn't matter, just want it to be able to get there. Currently I'm pretty settled on/torn between doing ether 52 springs or Ord custom springs up from with 56 springs in the rear. From what iv priced out both ideas seem to not be that far apart price wise considering I'd be beefing everything up along the way. I know going with softer springs will cause more body roll then what i have now but im good with that being used to my cousins jeep which has a pretty good amount. Any thoughts on which way you' go and or what you would do differently with the instal if you have ether set up would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
CK5
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Ord custom vs 52/56 swap
- Thread starter 84bigblue
- Start date
ORD takes a lot of factors into account (bumpers, winch, motor, trans, top etc.) when you place your order so your springs are specific to your vehicle. This is why I chose them.
I can’t comment on the ride quality of mine yet but I haven’t seen a single complaint on them.
I can’t comment on the ride quality of mine yet but I haven’t seen a single complaint on them.
I have 52/56 swap in my K5 crawler. When I originally did the swap it was still driven on the street occasionally (not much but some). I didn't feel like the body roll was horrible or unsafe, but there was more than with normal 4" lift springs in the front. A really nice shock will make the normal characteristics of 52's in the front not be as bad
In all honesty, I think it boils down to how much you plan on driving the truck on the road. If you eventually just want it to be a play rig that doesn't get driven that much unless you go to play in the dirt, then 52 swap in the front all the way. If you will use the truck more on the road and drive it quite a bit, I say ORD springs as you get the best of both worlds (good ride quality with arguably as good as flex as 52's...just costs a bunch more). No matter what you do, 56's in the rear are a no brainer, they will be fine for your uses no matter what spring you go with in the front.
In all honesty, I think it boils down to how much you plan on driving the truck on the road. If you eventually just want it to be a play rig that doesn't get driven that much unless you go to play in the dirt, then 52 swap in the front all the way. If you will use the truck more on the road and drive it quite a bit, I say ORD springs as you get the best of both worlds (good ride quality with arguably as good as flex as 52's...just costs a bunch more). No matter what you do, 56's in the rear are a no brainer, they will be fine for your uses no matter what spring you go with in the front.
Looking at your post again, I say source some junk yard 56's, 4" flip brackets (swapped side to side obviously) and the rear is done. Then ORD springs in the front to match the lift height in the rear, bolt it all up with your tire of choice....then do burnouts 
I have never had ORD springs. I have done more than 52s up front. Some Dodge springs, Ford springs, Chevy 56s, 52s.
Given the choice between any of those and ORD springs, or any custom spring, there is zero doubt question or hesitation. I would get ORD springs.
They will flex in a very similar fashion. They will outlast the 52s. They are specifically designed for your truck.
If you can afford them and are gonna stay leafs you will be ahead of the curve with ORD custom leafs
Given the choice between any of those and ORD springs, or any custom spring, there is zero doubt question or hesitation. I would get ORD springs.
They will flex in a very similar fashion. They will outlast the 52s. They are specifically designed for your truck.
If you can afford them and are gonna stay leafs you will be ahead of the curve with ORD custom leafs
The b52 setup did not do me any remarkable favors. With shorter springs I could move my front axle further forward than with 52s. My current off the shelf lift springs max out a 14 inch shock. I don't have trouble flexing and I don't have as bad of axle wrap under load.
In my experience, shorter heavier front springs do the overall job better than rear.
ORD springs have so many benefits. I'd already have them by now with how much I have spent in springs alone.
In my experience, shorter heavier front springs do the overall job better than rear.
ORD springs have so many benefits. I'd already have them by now with how much I have spent in springs alone.
I have one set of ORD springs in my '70 and love them. A buddy has a set in his '90 and they ride great and flex well. This is why I have a set waiting to go into my current project.
I have heard lots of guys say the same as @Kay86K5 and some say the same as @obijuank5 about how many sets of 52s they have gone through.
So I am curious about what opinions are offered up.
I have heard lots of guys say the same as @Kay86K5 and some say the same as @obijuank5 about how many sets of 52s they have gone through.
So I am curious about what opinions are offered up.
so you' rather have Ord just based off durability? I have heard the 52s and such wear out a ot faster but wasn' sure how fast.
Cost wise it seems like a toss up mostly bc if add in the cost of cross over steering into the 52 swap seeing as it is more or less a guaranty that you will need it based off what iv priced up soft number wise Ord swap would be about 1650 while 52 swap would be closer to 2k with the added cost of cross over steering (keep in mind I havnt found 1 tons yet so I'd have to get 44 Knuckles and have them machined) my gear box is starting to go out so I do plan on getting cross over but it would be nice not to have my suspension build based on it.
Also as I mentioned the truck sits now with 6 inches of lift on 35s but plan on moving to 37s for tires eventualy iv worked out the math to get ether six or 5 inches in the front but can only figure out how to get 5 inches in the rear with 56s. Am i missing soming on how to get that extra inch in the rear or will 37s fit under five with some minimul fender trimming
Yes. When I was wheeling alot a set of 56s lasts me about 18 months.
Realize though, every mod you need to do for 52s you have to do for ORD springs. Crossover is a must for either, custom shock mounts is a must for either, better shackles, some sort of bumpstop, longer than normal slip yoke driveshaft.
About the only mod the 2 don't have in common is the front hanger relocation.
I have also learned that maximum flex is not always a good thing.
ORD springs also have less axle wrap.
There really is no comparison.
Realize though, every mod you need to do for 52s you have to do for ORD springs. Crossover is a must for either, custom shock mounts is a must for either, better shackles, some sort of bumpstop, longer than normal slip yoke driveshaft.
About the only mod the 2 don't have in common is the front hanger relocation.
I have also learned that maximum flex is not always a good thing.
ORD springs also have less axle wrap.
There really is no comparison.
I thought the only reason you must do cross over with 52 swap is because in the process the front axle moves forward putting more of a strain on stock steering, Ord spring would keep the axle in the same location making cross over still a valuable upgrade, not much of a need it right this second sort of deal, or have I over looked something?
ORD can set the axle ahead if you want, or leave it stock. With the height that you are talking about, I would plan on crossover, but ORD could tell you based on your wheeling needs. You will also want to decide if you are going to trim sheetmetal.
I for sure plan on doing cross over just might take me a while to get all the parts like 44 Knuckles and 2wd gear box, or even 1 ton axles to save the trouble of changing knuckles. The junk yards here seem to be lacking in the old Chevy area so would take longer to get all the pieces if the suspension was dependent on having it. Iv also considered moving the axle forward for a wider wheel base but was also considering putting it on the back burner to help separate the cost of suspenson and cross over. I have diy4xs weld on spring hangers (essentially the bottom half of the b52) laying around and pland on installing them regardless of which way i go with the suspension. Using that if I later decided to move the axle forward all I would need to do is bolt the springs further up on the spring hanger and move the rear shackle forward to match right? As far as sheet metal trimming goes im good with that as long as it doesnt need to turn into a full on hack session trying to get 37s to fit under 5 inches.
The stock steering can be fine street driven with ORD springs, but your handicapping yourself off road. With that much flex you will find the steering ability while flexed lacking.
Talk to ORD but I'd move the axle at least an inch forward. 5" of lift and 37s you will likely need too. Which shortens your already short stock drag link.
Talk to ORD but I'd move the axle at least an inch forward. 5" of lift and 37s you will likely need too. Which shortens your already short stock drag link.
Stephen at ORD years ago talked me out of doing the 52” swap up front. Said the fabrication time and effort wasn’t worth it. Bolt on a good set of springs up front and be done with it.
Well of course he did...that means he sells more product
There really isn't that much more work that goes into swapping 52's (not anymore than installing ORD springs, as blazinzuk mentioned above, all the other items for the spring swaps are, or should be, the same). In all reality, the true benefits of going ORD springs vs 52's is much, much improved road manners and less to pretty much no spring wrap.
ORD springs are very nice. Just pretty pricey. You can purchase 5 sets of junkyard 52's for the same price as a one pair of ORD springs. However, you will never have to swap out a set of ORD springs, haha. Benefits and draw backs to both...pick your poison
I just want to say thanks for every ones time. I think the best way to go for my rig based on every ones input would be to do Ord up front and 56 in the rear. Seeing as this rig will still be driving on the road as well as on the trails. Thinking about it more I'll just save up the cash to move the axle forward and do cross over steering when I do the springs, might as well just get it done all in one go and what not. Thanks again, this forum is the best when it comes to getting the information you need 
Some here will remember I had 52's on the front of my Blazer for a few years, so I have some first hand experience there. While you're certain to get some bias from me, the big difference is durability.
If you're willing to pull leaves, it's not hard to make any spring soft. You can grab some 8" "lift kit" springs, pull everything but the top leaf or so, and have a really soft 3-4" spring. It's easy to see that spring is pretty much a goner even at ride height, let alone with any use. To some degree, this is what most with junkyard rear springs are doing, pulling leaves to make the spring softer with durability as a second thought. Length really isn't a concern if you're pulling leaves, you can make any length spring soft this way.
Durability is the x factor. To make a leaf spring flex more without permanently bending, you have to make it longer or thinner. 52's or 56's are longer than the stock, but only by ~10% (keeping in mind that 56's are still 26" from main eye to center, the shortest part is the weakest link in the chain). So there's a little there for the longer front springs, but not a ton.
When we advertise that our springs, in stock 47" length, can max out a 14" travel shock in articulation, that doesn't mean that's as far as they can go. That's as far as they can move without permanently hurting the spring. This is a calculated number with a factor of safety and lots of real world testing to back it up.
Do you ever see threads on the internet concerning 52's and how far they can move without damaging the spring? Or just simply how far they can flex?
Factory rear springs are still built with thick leaves, usually ~3/8". That's why they don't last, you can pull leaves to make them soft, and the extra length helps a little, but the thick leaves can easily be pushed past their limit.
Our custom springs are far from the cheapest leaf springs, I wouldn't kid you about that. The material isn't much of the difference in cost, it's more the labor involved in building a spring that requires roughly triple the work that a "lift kit" spring takes. Made in the US as well.
To me, the draw to 52's/56's in the front is that the springs are nearly free. If they don't last and you don't care about replacing them often, that's where those make sense to me.
If you're willing to pull leaves, it's not hard to make any spring soft. You can grab some 8" "lift kit" springs, pull everything but the top leaf or so, and have a really soft 3-4" spring. It's easy to see that spring is pretty much a goner even at ride height, let alone with any use. To some degree, this is what most with junkyard rear springs are doing, pulling leaves to make the spring softer with durability as a second thought. Length really isn't a concern if you're pulling leaves, you can make any length spring soft this way.
Durability is the x factor. To make a leaf spring flex more without permanently bending, you have to make it longer or thinner. 52's or 56's are longer than the stock, but only by ~10% (keeping in mind that 56's are still 26" from main eye to center, the shortest part is the weakest link in the chain). So there's a little there for the longer front springs, but not a ton.
When we advertise that our springs, in stock 47" length, can max out a 14" travel shock in articulation, that doesn't mean that's as far as they can go. That's as far as they can move without permanently hurting the spring. This is a calculated number with a factor of safety and lots of real world testing to back it up.
Do you ever see threads on the internet concerning 52's and how far they can move without damaging the spring? Or just simply how far they can flex?
Factory rear springs are still built with thick leaves, usually ~3/8". That's why they don't last, you can pull leaves to make them soft, and the extra length helps a little, but the thick leaves can easily be pushed past their limit.
Our custom springs are far from the cheapest leaf springs, I wouldn't kid you about that. The material isn't much of the difference in cost, it's more the labor involved in building a spring that requires roughly triple the work that a "lift kit" spring takes. Made in the US as well.
To me, the draw to 52's/56's in the front is that the springs are nearly free. If they don't last and you don't care about replacing them often, that's where those make sense to me.
This ^^, is very true. That's why I said above, on more of a trail rig that you only really go wheeling in, 52's all they way. Even if you wheel a lot and you bend a leaf pack once a year, just take half a Saturday and swap out for another pair.
But as I mentioned too, if you really plan on using the vehicle for anything else other than just wheeling, go with ORD springs...you will be MUCH happier overall, even if the costs is higher.
My blazer is a trail only rig (trailer it to and from the trail). I don't ever drive it on the road. The 52's in the front work fantastic for my use. I even have a spring that is just a tad bent on the front, but I don't give a crap, cause it's a trail only rig, haha. I have another set of 52's sitting in my shop right now just waiting to be swapped in whenever it gets too bad. But if I ever decided to drive my blazer on the road again, I would ditch the 52's and order ORD's springs for sure
The other durability with ORD springs vs 52s/56s is the military wrap. Honestly that's my biggest issue. I have bent more than one 56. And it's usually not in a convenient spot. Bending a spring can make tires rub, break shocks, break drivelines even make you have oil pan problems.
So it's more than just it lasts longer, it can reasonably be a preventative maintenance type of thing.
52s/56s have their place. I won't switch mine out for anything but links.
But on my more street driven Jimmy I would strongly consider ORD leafs and even though 52/56 I can do pretty cheap, custom springs match what I'm doing so much better than 52/56.
So it's more than just it lasts longer, it can reasonably be a preventative maintenance type of thing.
52s/56s have their place. I won't switch mine out for anything but links.
But on my more street driven Jimmy I would strongly consider ORD leafs and even though 52/56 I can do pretty cheap, custom springs match what I'm doing so much better than 52/56.
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
Are there no options for a 52/56 with thinner leaves?
