CK5
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ORD HD crossmember
- Thread starter jtrux
- Start date
Same.
I used to cut a plus sign in mine, then use a flat blade chisel to lop off the head. Well after I got a new long barrel, I don't even have to grind the plus sign in. The flat blade just lops it right off. Then poke it out.
I spent the better part of two days getting only 4 rivets off a spring hanger last week,couldn't use a torch or grinder due to a leaking fuel tank inches away either--had to resort to drilling them,I used a 3/16" bit in the center of the rivet head,then stepped up to a 3/8" and 1/2" bit--then had to chisel off the remains by hand..
My left hand took the brunt of several misplaced 5 lb hammer blows too,still feels like the knuckles were broken..and I still have 4 more to remove later on when I get the new hanger & fuel tank..
Rivets suck to remove,now I know why they use them on bridges --they are "permanent"...
My left hand took the brunt of several misplaced 5 lb hammer blows too,still feels like the knuckles were broken..and I still have 4 more to remove later on when I get the new hanger & fuel tank..
Rivets suck to remove,now I know why they use them on bridges --they are "permanent"...
If you have enough air and the Snap On badass air hammer those rivets will blow off like cutting a piece of cheese with a knife. I spent the $400 about 6-7 years ago and have never regretted the purchase. Took me about an hour to remove every rivet on a K5 frame.
Yeah,nothing beats the "right tools",but I ain't got $400+ bucks for an air hammer (or a 2 stage compressor) ,that I might use once or twice in the remainder of my lifetime...
Drilling them isn't so bad IF the drill can access the rivets and you get good sharp new bits that aren't HF lead ones..but the air hammer is much less painful than lying under a truck drilling and getting metal chips in your eyes..
Drilling them isn't so bad IF the drill can access the rivets and you get good sharp new bits that aren't HF lead ones..but the air hammer is much less painful than lying under a truck drilling and getting metal chips in your eyes..
I have been reading and thinking the same thing. I got a Matco long barrel back in 2012. It will take the heads off without any pre cut being done, but it will shoot the head across the garage that way!
A good chisel is important as well, the cheap ones dull too quickly.
I wa thinking that I should make a video of one getting removed, but I wouldn't be smart enough to post it up..
and yeah, i hate to say, repeat it, but this is one of those circumstances where it's hard to beat the Snappy... may be over-priced but it rules for long barrels.... 2 stage is nice cuz you can run higher line pressure...
Drill is the only way I remove rivets and it's so easy now. I removed over 100 on my trail rig and I've removed close to 80 off my 59 apache project. Center punch, 1/8" drill bit, ~9/32 drill bit, then 3/8 drill bit. Tap the rivet head off with a flat chisel (using the corner of the chisel). Most of the time it only takes one hit. Then use a punch to drive out the back half of the rivet. The frame will be untouched and the bracket/crossmember you are removing will be untouched too. The key is to drill in the center of the rivet but also drill far enough in that you are going through the backside of the rivet slightly.
You don't have to worry about sparks and it's much quieter, for those of us that are working on our rigs late at night. So ya don't piss off the neighbors
You don't have to worry about sparks and it's much quieter, for those of us that are working on our rigs late at night. So ya don't piss off the neighbors
Time to shop for an air hammer!
Threw mine in last night! Still need to drill a couple holes, but was totally doable with the engine in and supported.
I watched a YouTube video showing a guy using a plasma cutter to remove a body mount off a Ford Explorer frame,and I must say it appeared to be the quickest,easiest,and least damaging to the part your trying to remove intact,next to drilling...drilling is tough when you have no lift and your over 60 and in poor physical condition though..
I use my plasma cutter for that it's the easiest
I could have probably borrowed my friends plasma cutter--but due to my fuel tank leaking a few inches away from the rivets I had to remove,that nixed using that or anything else with a flame or made sparks like a torch or a grinder..
I've never use a plasma cutter yet either,I'm sure there is a learning curve too...I used to be good with cutting torches as far as lopping off bolt heads,nuts & rivets without ruining the part they held on,but not so much lately..
I've never use a plasma cutter yet either,I'm sure there is a learning curve too...I used to be good with cutting torches as far as lopping off bolt heads,nuts & rivets without ruining the part they held on,but not so much lately..
Yeah the plasma cutter is even easier.
Cut a slit in the top of the rivet with a cut off wheel and air chisel the head off, it’s pretty easy. And you don’t need a long barrel for that.
Last edited:
wasted wages
1 ton status
yup, cutting with a plasma cutter is like cutting with a laser...it takes a little skill to get used to it, but man it makes some nice clean cuts...
As someone who has to takes rivets out of airplanes on a daily basis I can tell you that you get better with practice. How I do it is I figure out the nominal hole size the rivets hole was drilled too. Drop the size down by .010 or so ie., .187 hole would be a .177 bit. Drill straight into the head. Works best with a single margin bit. Using a chisel or air hammer collapse the head into itself. Sometimes if you get close enough to the hole size the rivets head will pop off perfectly without needing to chisel. Using a drift punch it through the hole. Ive had to replace thousands of rivets in a couple hours and millions in my career. We also cant mess up any of the surrounding material in this process. Takes finesse and patience.
