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ORD High Steer Issue

7

74kay5

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Oct 30, 2003
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I just removed my stock tie rod and finally replaced it with a high steer one on the dana 60. Everything's fine until it turns almost to full lock and then it hits the top of the leaf spring U bolt. I have ORD Arms with a 1.5" tie rod. I don't have an unusual number of leaves in the pack. Never heard of this happening before. I already chopped the top of the U bolt but it's actually hitting the nut. Were my steering stops adjusted at some point maybe? This axle seems pretty much untouched since 87 when it rolled out of the factory.
 
With stock 52's and no overload I had to cut the spring plates on my 60. The tierod would rub just before full right lock.
 
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I have 56" springs in front and rear. I wouldn't think that spring length would have a whole lot to do with it.
 
length of spring does not have anything to do with it. It is the spring pin location. You moved the axle forward.
 
The pin is in the same location under the spring plate, still don't understand what's happening. I know ORD uses a slightly thinner tie rod in their high steer kits but either way I don't see a way around this other than making a custom spring plate that lowers the u bolt more.
 
74kay5 said:
I know ORD uses a slightly thinner tie rod in their high steer kits
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I believe you have found the reason. :wink1:

I doubt you can get a u-bolt plate thin enough to benefit you that still wont warp when torqued.
 
new studs and a 1" spacer block... think ballistac makes some...
 
your draglink isnt hitting right just the tierod? why dont you run the tie rod down below?? example

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The thicker tie rod isn't needed on the high steer set-up and the thicker toe rod is your whole problem. Even if you choose to adjust the knuckle stops out some so the tie rod doesn't hit the u-bolt/nut i would make sure that the tie rod and drag link don't touch each other when turned to the right (right might hit but left should move them farther apart from each other).
 
82355 said:
That would kind of defeat the purpose of a high steer set up . . . . .

Martin
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well its an idea til you get the $$ for the spacer block. thats how i see it. sorry stupid ? but what is the point of hi-steer?? i know why you want crossover but what does it matter if the tie rod is down below? or is it just a clearance issue? :confused:
 
Looks like your studs have enough thread sticking above the nuts that you should be ok with getting the 1" spacers. That'll save you a few bucks there.
 
your loosing a little bit of clearance from the angle shims rotating the spring plate forward also. how much clearance do you need. you have a thick enough tie rod, you could just put a small grind in it?
 
wayne said:
length of spring does not have anything to do with it. It is the spring pin location. You moved the axle forward.
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no matter how much he moved the axle forward or backword, the tie rod, which is what is hitting stays in the same location in regards of the axle.
 
73redblaze said:
well its an idea til you get the $$ for the spacer block. thats how i see it. sorry stupid ? but what is the point of hi-steer?? i know why you want crossover but what does it matter if the tie rod is down below? or is it just a clearance issue? :confused:
Click to expand...

High steer is so that when you bash a rock with your front end it hits the front end not the tie rod.
 
I got the draglink from WFO and I just matched the diameter to that without even thinking about it. Kinda stuck with it now. I'm leaning toward putting a small grind on the tie rod in that spot and also making a flat spot so that I can put a wrench on it when I want to adjust it or tighten the jam nuts. The tie rod clears the draglink fine, it's the pitman arm on full stuff that I'm worried about.
 
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