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ORD High Steer Issue

The pictures aren't going to help me much. I'm not having tie rod draglink issues. With the axle moved forward, the only thing I might run into is tie rod pitman arm contact when the wheel is straight and the wheel is stuffed on the driver's side. That's not the question I was asking.

hunter29078 said:
May want to look at some of these pics. It also says that if the axle is moved forward than it may not work even with the ORD kit.


http://coloradok5.com/ordhisteer.shtml
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looks like you have degree shims? If so how many degrees? When you put in shims to correct pinion angle its rotating front of axle down and thus the tierod or draglink into the springs. Maybe take them out or less shim. If you don't have shims and your driveshaft is ok try like 2* shims to drop pinion down/tie-rod up.
 
another idea, I bet Kurt at DIY4X could make you some 1/4" - 1/2" spacers to go under the steering arms. Would need a spacer the same thinkness to go under kingpin spring too. I bet he could make those cheaper than the 1"ers from Ballistic and you wouldn't need new studs.
 
I have 4* shims. I found an old 10 bolt, tube type tie rod and it measures 48". The tie rod I have on there is 49.25" I'm going to switch them and see what happens. What you guys were saying before, the fat heavy wall tie rod isn't necessary since it will be out of harms way is probably true.
 
73redblaze said:
your draglink isnt hitting right just the tierod? why dont you run the tie rod down below?? example
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Dont think your idea is stupid redblaze. Thats how i run mine, just on the topside of the knuckle instead in the stock location. Its a few inches higher than the bottom of the axle tubs. It works better for me. The tie rod is .250 wall dom, which is more than strong enough to take a hit or two.

DSCN0635.jpg
 
I run a beefy tierod in the stock location. Ive seen more cracked knuckles when using high steer than w/o and if its beefy enough who cares if you hit it. Ive had spotter say that my tierod is pushed into my diff cover but it never stays that way
 
74kay5 said:
The pictures aren't going to help me much. I'm not having tie rod draglink issues. With the axle moved forward, the only thing I might run into is tie rod pitman arm contact when the wheel is straight and the wheel is stuffed on the driver's side. That's not the question I was asking.
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Sorry about that I wasn't sure if your axle was forward, probably just missed it reading through the post. Comparing the pictures you posted and the one's of the ORD pics on this site it just looked like the steering arm on the top of you passenger's side knuckle was lower. It may be the picture or just my eyes, but it look like from knuckle to knuckle your tie rod is slanting downward a bit, whereas the ORD kit sits more level. I wasn't sure which kit you were using but thought there might be a difference in the thickness of the steering arm, which is causing the tie rod not to clear the top of the spring plate when turned all the way.
 
I mocked up the 10 bolt tie rod and it clears the U bolt fine but there is only about 1/4" engagement on the threads of the TRE's per side. The hollow type tie rods have 1" ends that have no threads. I'm guessing that's not going to cut it unless the jam nut against the end of the tie rod is enough to give it some strength.
 
MNorby said:
why dont you try some 2* shims?
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My transfer case is clocked up flat. My front driveshaft angle is horrible. I'm going to be making a new driveshaft with dana 60 stubs as soon as I can find another broken one. But that's another thread.
 
Do you have room to use either shorter shackles or drop your front spring hangers down like and 1" and get rid of shims? That way you keep pinion angle without the steering spring clearance problems.
 
MNorby said:
Do you have room to use either shorter shackles or drop your front spring hangers down like and 1" and get rid of shims? That way you keep pinion angle without the steering spring clearance problems.
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Can't go any shorter on the shackles, the angle is already pretty far back. My front spring hangers are the DIY4X B52 brackets with the bolt all the way forward. I'm kinda wishing that I kept the spring hanger location on the bumper where they were more forward and lower.
 
the quickest, easiest and cheapest it to grind away what is contacting the u-bolt, it can't be much.
 
YZEATER said:
the quickest, easiest and cheapest it to grind away what is contacting the u-bolt, it can't be much.
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That can cause a stress riser and the tie rod could fail alot easier. I'm not saying it can't be done without failure but i do not play around when it comes to brakes or steering components.
 
74kay5 said:
Can't go any shorter on the shackles, the angle is already pretty far back. My front spring hangers are the DIY4X B52 brackets with the bolt all the way forward. I'm kinda wishing that I kept the spring hanger location on the bumper where they were more forward and lower.
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Make or have kurt make 4 plates that look like this. Bolt them to your b52 brackets then you will have a new lower mounting hole. I would put some tube or bushings or something between the old spring mount spots on the b52s and put a bolt through each hole to hold it good. Would have to use s spacer washer on each side of the spring bolt to get it spaced right again. I bet you could make or even have Kurt make these for less $$$ than a new tie-rod.

dropbracket.jpg
 
Never thought of that before. That's a lot of bolts though.

MNorby said:
Make or have kurt make 4 plates that look like this. Bolt them to your b52 brackets then you will have a new lower mounting hole. I would put some tube or bushings or something between the old spring mount spots on the b52s and put a bolt through each hole to hold it good. Would have to use s spacer washer on each side of the spring bolt to get it spaced right again. I bet you could make or even have Kurt make these for less $$$ than a new tie-rod.

dropbracket.jpg
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I'd use 4- 4" long or so bolts per side and a spacer tube in the middle.
 
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