What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ORD Shackle Flip ?

S

scpaul

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Posts
278
Reaction score
30
Location
central area of S.C.
I've seen this shackle flip referred to numerous times. I've tried to use the search feature and I must be doing it wrong because it's telling me no results. What does "ORD" stand for?

If there's a place where it's explained if so, just tell me. I'm hoping that it will give me a slight lift in the rear because my rear is slightly lower (about 2" maybe less) than the front and it's been that way since it was new. If I'm right, how much lift can I expect to get out of it, and are there any good/bad side effects?

Is this a mod that I would want to do for long term or just use it temporarily?

Thx, Paul
 
Offroaddesign.com. rear suspension section. That should explain alot of it for you.
 
ORD stands for Offroad Design. They are in Carbondale, CO. They make a 2.5" shackle flip for the rear springs that may be something for you to look at.
www.offroaddesign.com

But you have to cut the rivets holding the original shackle brackets to the frame. It maintains the factory ride quality , but gives a lift.
 
I'd go so far as to say it improved the ride quality. You maintain the spring rate but I think the shackle design helps the ride a bit
 
While we are on the subject, i was considering adding a front 2 inch spring and combining it with either blocks or the shackle flip combined with the stock rear springs. If I were to go with the shackle flip route does that sit pretty evenly still or does the flip kit make the back sit a little higher? I know my springs are older, and likely to have a little sag to offset that "lift" but I was just curious what the general consensus is. I'm only going with 33's and most of my driving will be on the highway but when I do go offroad I'm aware the blocks are the worst solution when it comes to lifts so I just want to have what is the better of the two solutions, and at this point I could probably do new springs areo the shackle flip kit for about the same money.
 
Thanks everybody. I think I've seen the stuff that I will eventually need. If/when I change axles, I'll still be able to use the flipped shackles, lubed bushings and the HD shackles if I'm not mistaken, since this stuff is for the springs only, right?

Paul
 
I just completed my 2 1/2" shackle flip with new heavy duty shackles. I added a zero rate to move the axle back 1 1/2" so I ended up with another 2" in lift. I'll have the pics and write up in a day or so in my build thread.
 
I've done it on my suburban.
2.5 front springs, 2.5 rear shackle flip. Running 32" tires, works great. My flip was by TNA (multiple holes for shackle angle adjustment), but the ORD gets you the same.

yv1l_zpsvnl0k8m4.jpg


mpck_zpsa5o3vwge.jpg


I do plan to do a zero rate and push the rear axle back an inch. But there is plenty of room for 33 inchers if you want them. It's a mostly street truck so I'm keeping the front sway bar. Adding the swap bar links also helped the suspension ride MUCH better also. The fixed factory mounting causes binding, which the links fix nicely. ORD make some that are quick disconnect. I went with the Zone Off Road ones as I don't need the QD. You can see them in this pic, they are silver..............

jrLrEl_zps8qeitz02.jpg


You can also see my brake upgrade, but that's a whole different subject. Greasable suspension bolts are also a nice feature for longevity, smoothness, and flex. A dropped pitman arm will make your steering nice also. I did the drop arm and the ORD steering brace at the same time. Made for a nice controlled steering system. No bump steer, and even left and right steering. Your going for a level link, close to the same angle that the spring follows.
 
No wonder I couldn't see it with the OEM hangers, I do have to replace the OEM brackets. I don't remember the brackets from ORD having the adjustment holes for the shackles. Do the TNA brackets use the same holes in the frame? The spring brackets and the greasable urethane bushings are going to do about everything that I want.

I know that there's a limit to how far I can go with the shackles before they start trying to flip, but how much can you change the higth with the angle adjustment before you start taking a chance on flipping a shackle?

Do you think that the sway bar links would improve the ride on the stock sway bar with no lift or keep the bar from doing it's job as well?

Thanks, Paul

P.S. What does TNA stand for, suspension parts suppliers only, please.
 
Stephen said:
There's a reason we only put one hole in the bracket for the shackle. It's in the right place.
Click to expand...

and if you go 56" swap later on a vehicle that was factory 52" rear all you need is to swap flip brackets side to side.

only reason to have multi hole adjustment to me would people tunning suspension for different needs . . . otherwise just a waste for the average bolt on and go person .
 
Stephen, you say that the holes are in the right place, so I guess that with the stock shackles I'll raise the rear end 2 1/2" and put my shackles at the right angle.

TNA has a bracket that only has 2 holes. It says Zero, but says holes are 1/2" different. Can this bracket be used to raise the rear in different amounts?

I hope that I worded this so that you understand what I'm asking. It seemed that every time that I went back and looked I found other things that I didn't see before.

Paul
 
The TNA brackets come into their own if your using his front brackets also. Or if your not using stock style chevy springs. With the TNA fronts you can adjust wheel base and axle position easily. If your mostly keeping the suspension locations then the ORD ones are fine/great. ORD makes/carries some of the best square body stuff out there.

As far as TNA 2.5 flip, it is not listed on the web page. You'll have to call, message, or email for them. The one you are looking at on his page is the zero lift flip. Nice piece of kit but more of a specific problem solver, one you do not need.

Either one you go with, if you plan to actually wheel it hard, or even if you don't, budget for some heavy duty rear shackles also or soon. The stock shackle will work, but can be bent and should be replaced with the heavy duty ones for longevity.

Absolutely YES, the sway bar links (again, whichever version you go with) will make your truck ride nicer. The fixed mounted sway bar ends actually bind the suspension. Adding the links unbind and allow thing to move freely. My lifted burb actually rides just as nice as my wifes 2004 Avalanche. And with the drop pitman arm, I have zero bump steer, it goes across rutted roads smoothly without any pulling to the side.

ETA: Also I REALLY like how TNA bolt plates for the flip work. I was able to install mine without dropping the gas tank. Bottom bolt/plates hold it in place. Pulled the bumper, and use a yard stick with the inside plates taped to it to install.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone, between what y'all have told me and what I've read and compared, I think that I won't be on line much tomorrow. I've got to spend most of tomorrow digesting and understanding what I think I learned today. If you had to read that twice then you know how I feel right now!

I have "Counting Cars" on in the background, turned around and they have an older Blazer with the full top on there, going to customize it.

Thanks Y'all, Paul
 
I bought the 2.5" shackle flip and heavy duty shackles from ORD. You won't be disappointed if you go that route.

Good luck with whatever ones you get.
 
Thanks everybody,

Since I don't know what's in the future after this one is back on the road for a while, I'm probably going to have to give myself the most flexibility down the road. I don't think that I'll be doing any extreme 4 wheeling, but my friends will tell you that I'm bad about going to extremes when I find something that I like. Before Pam got this one I had a '89 GMC Z-71 Stepside with a contoured fiberglass camper shell for work. I drove full size GM products as my work trucks because most of them wanted me to drive the smallest, cheapest truck that they could buy. Traveling like I did, I wasn't comfortable in small vehicles and still am not. If there's any such thing as a winner of a wreck, I'd like it to be me. I did things with that Z-71 that shouldn't be done to a stock truck and it came through in spades. I've regretted trading that truck in many times, I did get a good price for it though.

I'm probably getting too far ahead of myself, but I started looking around for sources for things like the rubber that has gone bad. I looked at a few. I've still got to look at the forum's list of companies to patronize. I don't mind patronizing small companies as long as their stuff does what it's supposed to and they stand behind it. I understand that they all have to make a profit to stay in business, but my Lord. I ordered a catalog from LMC so far. It seems that all of the larger parts suppliers are all so similar on so many things.

How about a list of reputable and maybe bad ones too if they are extremely bad, not just a few complaints, but one that it seems that everybody has problems with. I recently ordered a MAS from a some what small company on line and later checked their customer's satisfaction. I thought that maybe I had made a mistake. I had no problem at all, I don't know if I was lucky or if the critics work for the competition.

On some of the gun forums they have a section for warning people of the really bad ones. There was one (husband and wife) that used 3 different handles and 3 different locations. They even had their wedding pics posted so that they would be recognized at gun shows and face to face deals.

Anyway Thanks, Paul
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom