LMC is usually pretty good on pricing but often they gouge in shipping, and that is always kind of the trend. Brothers and a few others, when they have that one part you need, they just make it nearly impossible to spend 100 dollars in freight on something you can get from a wrecking yard for 20 to 50 bucks a few years ago. Unfortunately there are only a few places re-popping the door and other seals, so make sure you replace what you really need to and refurb what you can. Also, it may behoove you to check in your local area for some suppliers, they might be a little higher on the outset but you'll save a ton on freight on many items. SC is a hotbed for car refurb suppliers so you might have more luck than some coming your way. Best thing you can do probably is what you have done and when you are looking for a part check here first and you might find someone close to you has exactly what you need, and most of the folks here in the forum will trade for a great price (beer, burgers, etc etc). Not sure how much you travel for work but I do mostly the same thing across Texas and I always kind of put out feelers in some of the forums I tend for anyone needing something transported across or around Texas, depending on where I am heading, lol.
CK5
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ORD Shackle Flip ?
- Thread starter scpaul
- Start date
scpaul
1/2 ton status
rpcraft,
Thanks for the response. You say S.C. is a hotbed for car refurb suppliers, there must be more in the business than I was aware of. I know that there's alot of industry in this state and when I was working I had to go more places that you would believe, but other than parts warehouses for the auto parts stores, I've never run into any companies that do that type of work.
If you can point me in the direction of the type of companies you're talking about, I'd appreciate it. The restoration shops that used to be around are gone nowI just thought about a place nearby, about 8 or 10 miles, that made and rearched springs and rebalanced and made custom driveshafts. I haven't been out that way in a long time, years, so I don't know if they are still there.
They disabled and retired me back in 2009. I used to travel 3 complete states and pretty large parts of 2 others. I've only been in the eastern part of Tx. but I'm guessing that what I covered might come close to the size of Tx. but, I don't know, Tx. is a BIG state.
This time of year, it's either too cold and windy or rainy, so I can't get any thing done because the truck is taped up for painting the roof and the fiberglass back section. I'd like to get inside so that I can get a better look at the headliner backing. If I remember correctly, there aren't but about 50 screws that have to be removed. I looked at the prices for the headliner kits and if mine is bad I have some good friends that do metal fab, metal detail work, and custom build heating and air ductwork that has to be pretty to get the big contracts. If necessary, I might run it by some of them. Our state beautification projects over the years have really hurt what we called "junk yards". I do know where a good size one used to be, but I don't know if they let the public go in. I've seen alot of squashed carcasses coming out of there. We also have one of the largest steel suppliers here. They're in about four or more other states, one being Tx. I think Tx. is where their home office is located.
Thanks, Paul
Thanks for the response. You say S.C. is a hotbed for car refurb suppliers, there must be more in the business than I was aware of. I know that there's alot of industry in this state and when I was working I had to go more places that you would believe, but other than parts warehouses for the auto parts stores, I've never run into any companies that do that type of work.
If you can point me in the direction of the type of companies you're talking about, I'd appreciate it. The restoration shops that used to be around are gone nowI just thought about a place nearby, about 8 or 10 miles, that made and rearched springs and rebalanced and made custom driveshafts. I haven't been out that way in a long time, years, so I don't know if they are still there.
They disabled and retired me back in 2009. I used to travel 3 complete states and pretty large parts of 2 others. I've only been in the eastern part of Tx. but I'm guessing that what I covered might come close to the size of Tx. but, I don't know, Tx. is a BIG state.
This time of year, it's either too cold and windy or rainy, so I can't get any thing done because the truck is taped up for painting the roof and the fiberglass back section. I'd like to get inside so that I can get a better look at the headliner backing. If I remember correctly, there aren't but about 50 screws that have to be removed. I looked at the prices for the headliner kits and if mine is bad I have some good friends that do metal fab, metal detail work, and custom build heating and air ductwork that has to be pretty to get the big contracts. If necessary, I might run it by some of them. Our state beautification projects over the years have really hurt what we called "junk yards". I do know where a good size one used to be, but I don't know if they let the public go in. I've seen alot of squashed carcasses coming out of there. We also have one of the largest steel suppliers here. They're in about four or more other states, one being Tx. I think Tx. is where their home office is located.
Thanks, Paul
Before you get too carried away with the flip, you should put it on the wheels loaded like you want to drive it and take some measurements on the body line to see just how low it really is. Chances are the 2.5" from a flip is going to be too much and you only need 1-2" to level it. Or rather than say "level it" let's say "make it sit like you like it". Even if you're after a tail high stance the 2.5" add is typically a lot with a stock front spring.
^ ^ ^ x2 on this info ..
measure from the body line down to the top of the wheel well opening front and back . you will note the rear is not as high/close to the body line as the front . this gives it the look of being butt low more than most people think .
measure from the body line down to the top of the wheel well opening front and back . you will note the rear is not as high/close to the body line as the front . this gives it the look of being butt low more than most people think .
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I've never actually measured it and I can't move it yet. It has a towing package which doesn't appear to affect much, but there was something on the window sticker about springs and it also has a factory load equalizing hitch. I was told quite a while ago that that type of hitch can cause that. I don't know, I've never had one before. There was something else on the sticker about suspension, I think. I've had tires on it as big as 35-12.50's, if not 33-12.50's. We haven't ever had a problem with the tires rubbing because of turning or over rough terrain. The suspension has never been changed. It has the original 4 shocks on the front and 2 on the rear. I've never noticed if it's got a steering stabilizer or not. With the lift, I'm after a level or very slightly rear high stance. I kind of feel that only old gassers and shine runners should run hood high. I guess that I ought to include the trucks that run on indoor dirt tracks alot.
tRustyk5 ran the VIN and printed the options list for me. It's in "The Garage" 6 th pg then under "Trying to figure my exact specs", pg 2. The name is probably not exact but it's close. It seems that someone on this site said that they came low in the rear alot of the time. I've seen alot just like it.
I re-read the entries and I can measure from the top of the fender opening to the top of the tire. I was thinking the size of tires that have been on it and I must have had tires larger than 33-12.50's on it because I couldn't put the spare in the tire carrier and I know that it will hold a 33-12.50 because that's what is on it now.
I'm getting ready to siphon the tank as dry as I can. Where is the pick-up for the fuel so I can use a jack to make sure that it leans that way. I've got to drop it and I think that it was almost full when I parked it. I remember that it hurt my feelings. I should have siphoned and used it then.
I was reading the label on "Evapo-Rust" and it has directions for cleaning gas tanks. When I get the pump and sending unit out of it, I'm planning on putting some small gravel, large aquarium gravel maybe in it and shake it around to knock out any rust that might come loose down the road. I wish that I could get it in a paint shaker, the inside would be shiny or full of holes.
Thanks, Paul
tRustyk5 ran the VIN and printed the options list for me. It's in "The Garage" 6 th pg then under "Trying to figure my exact specs", pg 2. The name is probably not exact but it's close. It seems that someone on this site said that they came low in the rear alot of the time. I've seen alot just like it.
I re-read the entries and I can measure from the top of the fender opening to the top of the tire. I was thinking the size of tires that have been on it and I must have had tires larger than 33-12.50's on it because I couldn't put the spare in the tire carrier and I know that it will hold a 33-12.50 because that's what is on it now.
I'm getting ready to siphon the tank as dry as I can. Where is the pick-up for the fuel so I can use a jack to make sure that it leans that way. I've got to drop it and I think that it was almost full when I parked it. I remember that it hurt my feelings. I should have siphoned and used it then.
I was reading the label on "Evapo-Rust" and it has directions for cleaning gas tanks. When I get the pump and sending unit out of it, I'm planning on putting some small gravel, large aquarium gravel maybe in it and shake it around to knock out any rust that might come loose down the road. I wish that I could get it in a paint shaker, the inside would be shiny or full of holes.
Thanks, Paul
scpaul
1/2 ton status
Sweet30,
I went back and re-read some of the info sent to me and in yours you are talking about the body line. Are you saying to measure from the bend in the body metal (body line?) that is first above the fenderwell opening, to the fenderwell opening itself? Do you mean that the difference in that measurement of front vs. rear is helping to make it look low in the rear, kind of an optical illusion? If so, that is an explanation that I've never thought of or had suggested. That would make alot of sense. Where it is sitting, I can't get far enough away so that I can see it to try to mentally allow for that. I am going to measure those distances and also from the fenderwell top edge to the center of the axle. By doing it that way, I'm trying to delete any variation due to tire sag or settling into the ground.
Stephen,
It is setting on the wheels and tires that it's going to be on, I hope. The exception being if the brand new tires that were put on it about 1000 miles before it was parked have dry rotted. I parked it at an angle where the sun couldn't get directly on the tires. I've been looking at them on a regular basis, trying to make sure that they are ok and it's hard to believe, but I haven't found the first dry rot crack or anything. I think that I'm going to put some tire preservative on them a couple of times before I move it trying to get some oil (?) to soak back into the tire sidewalls, if it can be done. I really don't want to have to replace the tires again, These cost me $1000 through a friend that owns a tire store and like I said earlier, they have about 1000 miles on them. I know that this is probably just wishful thinking, that I'll probably have to replace them, but I've got to try.
Any suggestions on the best tire preservative/treatment, not a regular tire shine or cleaner.
Thanks, I'm going to go measure it in a bit. Thanks again, I'd never thought of that Sweet30.
Thanks, in a Bit, Paul
I went back and re-read some of the info sent to me and in yours you are talking about the body line. Are you saying to measure from the bend in the body metal (body line?) that is first above the fenderwell opening, to the fenderwell opening itself? Do you mean that the difference in that measurement of front vs. rear is helping to make it look low in the rear, kind of an optical illusion? If so, that is an explanation that I've never thought of or had suggested. That would make alot of sense. Where it is sitting, I can't get far enough away so that I can see it to try to mentally allow for that. I am going to measure those distances and also from the fenderwell top edge to the center of the axle. By doing it that way, I'm trying to delete any variation due to tire sag or settling into the ground.
Stephen,
It is setting on the wheels and tires that it's going to be on, I hope. The exception being if the brand new tires that were put on it about 1000 miles before it was parked have dry rotted. I parked it at an angle where the sun couldn't get directly on the tires. I've been looking at them on a regular basis, trying to make sure that they are ok and it's hard to believe, but I haven't found the first dry rot crack or anything. I think that I'm going to put some tire preservative on them a couple of times before I move it trying to get some oil (?) to soak back into the tire sidewalls, if it can be done. I really don't want to have to replace the tires again, These cost me $1000 through a friend that owns a tire store and like I said earlier, they have about 1000 miles on them. I know that this is probably just wishful thinking, that I'll probably have to replace them, but I've got to try.
Any suggestions on the best tire preservative/treatment, not a regular tire shine or cleaner.
Thanks, I'm going to go measure it in a bit. Thanks again, I'd never thought of that Sweet30.
Thanks, in a Bit, Paul
scpaul
1/2 ton status
Stephen and Sweet30 (why do I feel strange calling a guy that?),
I went outside and actually measured the top of the fenderwell and body line to the top of the tire. Y'all are right, I'd never noticed just how much difference there in the hite of the top of the front and rear fenderwells.
It's parked on a pretty even incline. The front and rear side to side are almost exactly the same. From the top of front tires to fender is 5" and body line is 11 3/4" and on the rear, the tire to fender is 4 1/2" and body line is 12". That's about 7" difference in the higth of the front to rear measured from the top of the tire.
I guess that the only way that I'm going to be able to see and measure the higth that I want is to put a piece of lumber across the frame in the rear and jack up the frame/body so I streach the suspension until I get the attitude that I want, then measure, since I can't get far enough back to see it. If y'all have a better way/idea about how I can do it, please let me know because I can't think of a thing.
Well, thanks again because, I'd never have thought of it that way, Paul
I went outside and actually measured the top of the fenderwell and body line to the top of the tire. Y'all are right, I'd never noticed just how much difference there in the hite of the top of the front and rear fenderwells.
It's parked on a pretty even incline. The front and rear side to side are almost exactly the same. From the top of front tires to fender is 5" and body line is 11 3/4" and on the rear, the tire to fender is 4 1/2" and body line is 12". That's about 7" difference in the higth of the front to rear measured from the top of the tire.
I guess that the only way that I'm going to be able to see and measure the higth that I want is to put a piece of lumber across the frame in the rear and jack up the frame/body so I streach the suspension until I get the attitude that I want, then measure, since I can't get far enough back to see it. If y'all have a better way/idea about how I can do it, please let me know because I can't think of a thing.
Well, thanks again because, I'd never have thought of it that way, Paul
ya lots of people say its sagging bad in the back cause the tire fills the fender hole more than the front . but now you measured it you see the optical illusion problem . . . .
most blazers/suburbans tend to looks great with 1"-1.5" extra in the back with good condition rear springs .
sweetk30 is fine . . . .woodchuck is my nick-name for almost 20 years . but that one I prob wouldn't notice in type / reading it as sweetk30 .
sweetk30 is my screen name almost EVERY were I am on the internet.
most blazers/suburbans tend to looks great with 1"-1.5" extra in the back with good condition rear springs .
sweetk30 is fine . . . .woodchuck is my nick-name for almost 20 years . but that one I prob wouldn't notice in type / reading it as sweetk30 .
sweetk30 is my screen name almost EVERY were I am on the internet.
scpaul
1/2 ton status
If the 2 1/2" flip is only going to make me 1" high it' not that big of a deal. I just went and looked at the list of options that was looked up for me and I thought there was something else to do with springs. It lists code....F60...H.D.Front Springs, and C5M...vehicle weight rating (?) 6100 lbs. I don't know if the front springs will make much difference and I don't really understand the 6100 lbs. rating (?) I was thinking as long as It has been sitting that the springs may have taken a set and the tires are a little low and sunk into the dirt about 1". I'm probably going to have to move it to see just how it really sits now, it's been so long since it moved.
Thanks, Paul
Thanks, Paul
take pics of the spring packs and post up . . . we can give you a basic idea for there use or replace .
6100lb is the gross vehicle weight it can be with its self .
prob got a trailer tow package .
6100lb is the gross vehicle weight it can be with its self .
prob got a trailer tow package .
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I can't post pics yet. I looked at the list of options. It does have the Z82 Towing pkg (Special)(Reese Type Hitch). It also has other trailering accessories. If the springs have sagged, if came from sitting. The heaviest thing that it has ever towed was a 21' ski boat and then only twice about 25 miles.
I'm going to lift it up 2 1/2" and see what it looks like. Until I know better about which way it's going, I'm going to leave the springs alone.
It has the Std. 10 bolt axles that break. Is there a part like the carrier, ring and pinion, what ever that will improve the axles to where they will be considerably better?
Thanks, Paul
I'm going to lift it up 2 1/2" and see what it looks like. Until I know better about which way it's going, I'm going to leave the springs alone.
It has the Std. 10 bolt axles that break. Is there a part like the carrier, ring and pinion, what ever that will improve the axles to where they will be considerably better?
Thanks, Paul
if stupid cheep/simple for now . go the good brand 2"-2.5" front leaf packs and a 3" block in the rear .
I think this would get you a good idea on happy or not for cheapest .
I think this would get you a good idea on happy or not for cheapest .
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I'll probably do something like that, but before I'm going to stretch the rear suspension to where I can see 2 or 2 1/2" of spring lift. If I have to use blocks, I'll get a friend to fab them out of metal plates and weld them into 1 piece. I'm a little concerned about having everything sitting on a cast aluminum block.
Thank You, Paul
Thank You, Paul
cast aluminum ?
most all lift companys went away from them years ago . there cast iron now . . . some like rough country are fabbing them and welding them .
most all lift companys went away from them years ago . there cast iron now . . . some like rough country are fabbing them and welding them .
scpaul
1/2 ton status
Thanks SweetK30,
I told you that I'd been away from automotive type hobbies for years. Thanks, that's the kind of information that I can really use.
I have always had a tendency to over build my projects. This would have been one of those. Putting a vehicle that has a high center of gravity and sitting it on a cast aluminum block, that was hollowed out at one time. Back then I wonder if some guy thought about saving his company even more money by suggesting that they make them out of wood or better yet, "Nylon".
I'll take a look at them, but I probably will go a different way like spring hangers or shackles if they are short enough and do the job. On the shackles I was thinking that 1/2 to 3/4" longer is about the maximum that I'd consider. Do you think that they would be too long and bend or otherwise screw up? Something like this would most likely be temporary, maybe just to see if I got the hight right.
Earlier you said something about raising the front too. I don't want to do that, atleast not yet, if ever. I mainly just want to make it look level or "Slightly" tail high. We deal with mud more than anything else, so unless you really get in over your head, lifting it isn't that important. I've usually got a ATV on a small trailer behind it if I need to go that far. We do have some nasty bogs, and you can be in one before you realize it.
Your thoughts on SHORT shackles, maybe reinforced too.
Thanks, Paul
I told you that I'd been away from automotive type hobbies for years. Thanks, that's the kind of information that I can really use.
I have always had a tendency to over build my projects. This would have been one of those. Putting a vehicle that has a high center of gravity and sitting it on a cast aluminum block, that was hollowed out at one time. Back then I wonder if some guy thought about saving his company even more money by suggesting that they make them out of wood or better yet, "Nylon".
I'll take a look at them, but I probably will go a different way like spring hangers or shackles if they are short enough and do the job. On the shackles I was thinking that 1/2 to 3/4" longer is about the maximum that I'd consider. Do you think that they would be too long and bend or otherwise screw up? Something like this would most likely be temporary, maybe just to see if I got the hight right.
Earlier you said something about raising the front too. I don't want to do that, atleast not yet, if ever. I mainly just want to make it look level or "Slightly" tail high. We deal with mud more than anything else, so unless you really get in over your head, lifting it isn't that important. I've usually got a ATV on a small trailer behind it if I need to go that far. We do have some nasty bogs, and you can be in one before you realize it.
Your thoughts on SHORT shackles, maybe reinforced too.
Thanks, Paul
rear shackle system in our trucks a longer shackle would DROP the rear .
and every 1" of longer shackle = 1/2" of lift/drop
if you wana do just the rear now and only just a bit . . . . do a zero rate / ez inch bolt on to spring pack 1" solid steel block . it becomes part of the spring pack and we use them a lot on this forum .
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm
or
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17722&cat=250&page=2
and every 1" of longer shackle = 1/2" of lift/drop
if you wana do just the rear now and only just a bit . . . . do a zero rate / ez inch bolt on to spring pack 1" solid steel block . it becomes part of the spring pack and we use them a lot on this forum .
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm
or
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17722&cat=250&page=2
A simple zero rate in the back is probably all you'll want if you're not lifting the front. Your 3 leaf front springs are stiffer than standard 2 leaf packs, so your truck likely is less saggy than most of the stock ones on here. How many leaves do you have in the back?
Sun aging makes tires brittle. Dont be surprised if your perfect-looking tires crack soon after you put them into service. A tire can be quite brittle and still not show cracking when it's just sitting.
scpaul
1/2 ton status
I believe you about the shackle lowering the highth, but I've got go look at it again, I can't get a mental pic.
I went to 1 of the sites (diy4x) that you listed and I'm going to have about $152 in doing it this way and that doesn't include shipping. Thinking about how much that will cost and the additional labor to do it a second time when I change the brackets and the cost of the brackets and bushings, I think that I'm better off in the long run to do the brackets to begin with. I don't remember the measurements on the one that I'm thinking of, but I think that it's got enough adjustment to give me what I want. It will cost a little more, but I only buy the parts once and install once.
Thanks for getting me to look at that, Paul
I went to 1 of the sites (diy4x) that you listed and I'm going to have about $152 in doing it this way and that doesn't include shipping. Thinking about how much that will cost and the additional labor to do it a second time when I change the brackets and the cost of the brackets and bushings, I think that I'm better off in the long run to do the brackets to begin with. I don't remember the measurements on the one that I'm thinking of, but I think that it's got enough adjustment to give me what I want. It will cost a little more, but I only buy the parts once and install once.
Thanks for getting me to look at that, Paul
And 10 bolt axles aren't particularly bad, just the G80 carrier you have in your rear. If you had a stock open carrier in there it could easily outlast the truck. It's neither overbuilt nor slouchy.
