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ORD triple stick on turbo 400

broflow

Tinbanger
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new glarus WI
OK so I've got a t400, 203/205 doubler, figure 8 adapter. I bought the ORD triple stick shifter also. I've had all of this stuff for a couple of years and just now getting around to installing it. I'm wondering if I should be using the standoff bracket in the attached picture with my set up? Or is it just an extra bracket for a different adapter setup?

IMG_20150301_101029448.jpg
 
i just did this a couple of months back, use the bracket it gives the correct throw/ distance for the shifters. That is what we came up with on mine
 
Thanks guys. It seems right to have it in,but the instructions didn't show it in there. I'm thinking I'm going to cut down the hump in the floor and bend up some new sheetmetal so I don't need such a big hole in the floor to accommodate the distance of the throw due to the 1.5" body lift I have in it.
 
yes use it. as mentioned its designed with that adapter in place to make the linkage the right length....some adjustment required.
 
Thanks guys. It seems right to have it in,but the instructions didn't show it in there. I'm thinking I'm going to cut down the hump in the floor and bend up some new sheetmetal so I don't need such a big hole in the floor to accommodate the distance of the throw due to the 1.5" body lift I have in it.

My experience with ORD stuff is that the instructions can leave a bit to be desired, especially for those of us who are visual learners :D

Also, though mine's on a TH350, I think with the multi-stick kits you basically have to expect to do tweaking to the tunnel. It's specific to each truck, really, with the combination of transmission and motor mounts and crossmembers and body lift, etc.

-- A
 
I went and got a 2 wheel drive tunnel cover and cut what I needed for the hole for the shifters and allowed some extra room for twisting etc, then I borrowed a welder and bought a bender at harbor freight, some I think it was 18 guage, rivets and welding and built a box to go over the tunnel. I insulated it and used weather stripping. Turned out good and gives me a flat place to set my coffee cup.
 
So I was messin around with the shifter and got everything hooked up tonight. The 203 lever (left side) works fine. The 205 rear output (center) is stuck all the way back in High and the 205 front output is stuck forward in low. Now is it possibly just that I need to unhook the rear driveshaft and spin the output some to free it up or did I put something together wrong on the shift rails? I assume one would not want to ever try to drive with the front output in low and the rear output in High or vice versa right? I'm sure there is info about this out there somewhere but I wasn't having any luck searching for it. Any info would be great.
 
So I was messin around with the shifter and got everything hooked up tonight. The 203 lever (left side) works fine. The 205 rear output (center) is stuck all the way back in High and the 205 front output is stuck forward in low. Now is it possibly just that I need to unhook the rear driveshaft and spin the output some to free it up or did I put something together wrong on the shift rails? I assume one would not want to ever try to drive with the front output in low and the rear output in High or vice versa right? I'm sure there is info about this out there somewhere but I wasn't having any luck searching for it. Any info would be great.

There's a thing you can do to grind the shift rails to allow non-factory combos like front-LO (2WD front instead of 2WD rear), but I thought they were specifically rigged to keep you from doing LO at one end and HI at the other. Things would indeed would break in short order if you tried that.

Did you modify the shift rails, and did you maybe grind them too far?

-- A
 
So I was messin around with the shifter and got everything hooked up tonight. The 203 lever (left side) works fine. The 205 rear output (center) is stuck all the way back in High and the 205 front output is stuck forward in low. Now is it possibly just that I need to unhook the rear driveshaft and spin the output some to free it up or did I put something together wrong on the shift rails? I assume one would not want to ever try to drive with the front output in low and the rear output in High or vice versa right? I'm sure there is info about this out there somewhere but I wasn't having any luck searching for it. Any info would be great.


The rails shouldn't let you do that if you installed the interlock pins (the "long pill" looking pieces between the rails. If they are there, you probably put one of the shift forks in backwards, they are offset and only work in one direction.
 
I've got to look at it again. I've got rails that you guys sell at ORD. So is it possible that I put them in backwards? I need to look at it again to see how its suppose to look. Where is the long pill shaped piece located at? inside the case or outside tying the rails together? It was probably 2 winters ago that did I the transfer case work and that was my first time putting together a doubler/shift rails so I don't really remember how I did it. I'm assuming that the shift forks your talking about are in the 205? Its one of those long term projects things like kids and houses have gotten in the way of the toy truck. Any pictures would be great. Thank for any info.
 
Thanks for the link. That jogged my memory of how it went together. When I got home today I looked it over some and found that the linkage rod on the front output was way too long. I was just looking at the position of the levers to try to determine what position they were in. I had to cut off 1 5/8" to keep it from hitting the hole in the floor. Now I was able to put both front and rear in low at the same time or in High at the same time. It's hard to get them to engage/disengage with the rear shaft hooked up and the wheels on the ground so I jacked it up and once I could spin the shafts some I can get it to shift back and forth.

So if I'm understanding right I shouldn't be able to get either one to go into Low if the other is in High or vice versa then I know everything was put together right?
 
no cross range mixing . if rails are modified correctly / or purchased new modified. and the 2 cross rail / piles are in place inside the case .

and front is always last to be selected and first to neutral position before rear output range is selected.

also check my shift detent mod in the 203 part. my detent was WAY to soft . if I bumped the lever at the handle it shifted. I fixed it super cheep tho . . :whistle:

after doing a few 205 fresh ups and mods and the 1 doubler kit I will always if possible do them on the bench and full assemble and bench test the setup with shifters also .
 
ya my 203 lever moves too easy also. I remember reading about what you did to it but didn't quite understand I'll have to read up again.

So to lock in front only I would assume that you would get both into neutral and then shift just the front in?

This is probably a really dumb question but the 203 has 3 positions right (low,neutral,high) so if I want just a 2:1 do I engage the just the 205 and leave the 203 box in Neutral? or do I put both the 203 in high with the 205 in low? I know I understood this at one point but I forget right now. If I remember there's one combination that you don't really want to use.

I read up on your stubby build it looks like it will be pretty cool when its done. Can't wait to see it finished.:popcorn:
 
ya my 203 lever moves too easy also. I remember reading about what you did to it but didn't quite understand I'll have to read up again. goes between the spring and the threaded plug cap.

So to lock in front only I would assume that you would get both into neutral and then shift just the front in? yes if rails are modified or ord predone new rails . stock will not support this with twin stick shifters .

This is probably a really dumb question but the 203 has 3 positions right (low,neutral,high) so if I want just a 2:1 do I engage the just the 205 and leave the 203 box in Neutral? or do I put both the 203 in high with the 205 in low? I know I understood this at one point but I forget right now. If I remember there's one combination that you don't really want to use. range box (203) has to be in high or low to send power to 205 case. I have read and been told leave range box (203) in high until needed extra low . let the last item in the system do the basic low range grunt work .

I read up on your stubby build it looks like it will be pretty cool when its done. Can't wait to see it finished.:popcorn:

cant wait to finish it my self. after this winter towing / recovery jobs it would have been 10x faster / easy to use my rig to do the job . so the bug is back in my mind to try and get it done.
 
The range box has to be in gear in order for there to be power transmitted to the NP205. Nothing will happen if the range box is in neutral.

That being said, my range box doesn't really have a neutral, it's mostly either high or low.

They say to not run the NP205 in high, and the range box in low, but I have done it a few times with no catastrophic failures.

That being said, my NP205 is a pain in the ass to shift, and my NP203 range box shifts as easily as can be, so I normally shift my NP205 in to Low, and then shift the range box back and forth between High and Low if I need more or less gearing. It is just easier.

Martin
 
They say to not run the NP205 in high, and the range box in low, but I have done it a few times with no catastrophic failures.
I think this was more for the early days of doublers when the intermediate shaft was 2 shafts welded together. Now that they use a new billet intermediate shaft, I don't think it is as much of any issue anymore
That being said, my NP205 is a pain in the ass to shift, and my NP203 range box shifts as easily as can be, so I normally shift my NP205 in to Low, and then shift the range box back and forth between High and Low if I need more or less gearing. It is just easier.
Martin
Mine is the same way & I usually do the same thing
 
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